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Old 08-13-2009, 08:25 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Wabbiteer View Post
Deeded you some Black Hills properties did he?
Uh, yup....and my sewer cleanout is 6" up hill so with $17 worth of pvc fittings and a little review of the Sewer Solutions web site...a home made version works great!
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Old 08-13-2009, 08:40 PM   #16
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1991 34' Excella
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Floor progress

No progress last night, so tonight I really wanted to get something done. I started by cutting a 4 x 8 sheet of luan into 4 x 4 sq.
Then I layed it over the hole in my floor, evened it up and used a modified version of the stick copy method -
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...pes-29321.html

I used a round lid to stick into the C channel and then traced the back edge onto the luan. This was repeated in as many places as I could. I also marked some position notes on 'pattern A'. Click on the third photo to see the traces from the lid edge
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Hi Ho Silver RV! Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie -
A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy http://www.airforums.com/forums/f205...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ome-71609.html
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Old 08-13-2009, 08:45 PM   #17
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1991 34' Excella
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Pattern A was then placed on top of the 4 x 4 sheet thats going to be the master pattern, and the position notes were used to square up two pieces of luan.

I then layed the lid on pattern A and traced the lids outer edge onto the master pattern. Finally a stiff hose helped blend all of the traces into the actual profile of the C channel.

On edit - I just noticed Mac has his head stuck thru the kitty door and is looking at us in the 1st photo
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Hi Ho Silver RV! Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie -
A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy http://www.airforums.com/forums/f205...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ome-71609.html
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Old 08-16-2009, 12:53 PM   #18
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1991 34' Excella
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I finally got done cutting grass and can spend some time on the 34'er. I jigsawed around the line, cut a slot for the harness and FINALLY got the bolts cut that were beneath the battery boxes . The pattern needed a final tweek with a belt sander and it slipped right in place. I pulled out the left 1/2 of the front floor, flipped the pattern over and slid it in that side. One minor difference between the two sides and it's probably due to my inability to get a square cut in the original floor. The difference is marked on the pattern and now its time for some plywood!
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Hi Ho Silver RV! Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie -
A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy http://www.airforums.com/forums/f205...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ome-71609.html
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Old 08-17-2009, 07:24 PM   #19
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Plywood

I made it by Lowes this afternoon, a roll of insulation, 3 saw blades, a 19/32 piece of exterior ply and $87 later...

I traced the pattern onto the new ply and cut JUST INSIDE of the mark. The pattern was a really tight fit so this gave me just a bit more clearance. I also avoided the temptation to better round off the trace - trust the pattern...it fit so I didn't second guess it!

All done and the only thing left is a plywood G String Bikini
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Hi Ho Silver RV! Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie -
A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy http://www.airforums.com/forums/f205...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ome-71609.html
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Old 08-18-2009, 09:01 PM   #20
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No progress today other than rubbing a bald spot into my head trying to figure out a solution for this problem. The C channel is pinched where it lays on the front end of the frame rails. I tried prying it open but nothing is budging. I will try putting some support blocks under the main frame rails 1/2 way forward of the axles then retract the power jack. I'm hoping the front of the frame will sag enough to open the c channel enough to insert the ply. POR15 is due here Thursday so I need to get these sections fitted!

I should have a chance in the morning, taking the day off to help our son during his mid day knee surgery...the bicycle won, the knee lost.
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Hi Ho Silver RV! Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie -
A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy http://www.airforums.com/forums/f205...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ome-71609.html
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Old 08-18-2009, 09:32 PM   #21
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Vern, I've been lurking on your thread.
Best to your son. If you stop rubbin that spot on top of your head, it may grow back LOL!
Nice work on the rot
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Old 08-18-2009, 09:36 PM   #22
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Vern, I've been lurking on your thread.
Best to your son. If you stop rubbin that spot on top of your head, it may grow back LOL!
Nice work on the rot
I'm gonna go ahead and do the front separation fix while I'm in there. I wish I had asked more info from you when we talked about it at the Can Opener '08. I think I have a good plan with the help of a common pal...
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A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy http://www.airforums.com/forums/f205...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ome-71609.html
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Old 08-18-2009, 09:39 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV View Post
No progress today other than rubbing a bald spot into my head trying to figure out a solution for this problem. The C channel is pinched where it lays on the front end of the frame rails. I tried prying it open but nothing is budging. I will try putting some support blocks under the main frame rails 1/2 way forward of the axles then retract the power jack. I'm hoping the front of the frame will sag enough to open the c channel enough to insert the ply..
I remember an old thread about rear end sag where someone successfully used a fork lift or a loader bucket to flex the frame enough to slide in the flooring from the outside.
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Old 08-18-2009, 09:48 PM   #24
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Six good sized men on my bumper let me slide in the last 4x8 sheet in the rear. Worked great. Robert
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Old 08-19-2009, 12:07 AM   #25
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Painting the tops of the iron that will be hidden by the flooring is good Zen.

I found scabbing (screwing) 2x4 blocks to the plywood lengthwise with the desired thrust, standing on the 2x4s to eliminate rebound and clamp floor in place, THEN tapping the blocks with a sledgehammer croquet-style worked very well... except shell will move too.

Note: even with a chamfer on the corner of the flooring forcing it may move the shell & C-Channel (the alignment to the frame rail drifts while its loose)...

I ended up getting flooring in and aligned and then got to use soft western red cedar boards and a sledgehammer to finish seating the C-Channe from the outside to restore the channel through-bolt locations to outriggers etc...
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Old 08-19-2009, 12:08 AM   #26
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my flor repair

I had to replace the rear 8 feet and the bathroom foor in my 1991 34'r. I used what was called 3/4" plywood. Actualy 19/32. I used Exterior/ marine grade B/B, pluged & sanded both sides. I did install it in the rear in 2 pieces. The seam runs down the center beam of the frame. The bathroom section I was able to lift the wall that seperates the batjhroom and the rear bedroom with a steady preasure on a 6" wide pry bar I made from a piece of angle steel and flat stock welded together. My friend pryed the wall up as I slid the new bathroom floor into place from the bedroom side.
To make it all fit, I used my electric hand plane and cut down the edges by 3/64" in thickness and made that cut 1 1/4" wide so I had a slight interfrence fit where the the plywood fit in under the aluminum studs and sill plates.
I then painted the floor with KILZ brand oil based primer and went on with the finnised flooring, Pergo, carpet and tile.
Some photos.
Top Left, rear bedroom after POR 15 aplied.
Top right, ROTTEN Bathroom floor, under hot water heater, enlarge this photo and you will see what I was up against.
Bottom left, bathroom floor cleaned up & POR 15'ed.
Bottom right, NEW bathroom floor. The rope you see in the shower was used to pull the new heater duct back into place.
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Old 08-19-2009, 12:23 AM   #27
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More photos of finished floor repairs:

This has been a fun project. I have learned a lot from this forum. Would not have had the success I have if not for the knowlege contained herein. I thank everyone again for the help I recieved.

Check out the posting for "FLOOR FINNISHES" to see more of this floor project..

top left, new floor in bedroom.
top right, new hot water heater and floor primered.
bottom left, floor all primered.
bottom right, new heat ducts.
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One bazillion fish
1991 34' 60th Aniversary Limited Edition #008
2007 Chevy 2500 HD Duramax/Allison
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"Wake each morning & Smile at the GREAT DAY you about to experience"

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Old 08-19-2009, 07:23 AM   #28
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Question for catson4

From your picture below, there appears to be no evidence of your removing the inner panels - my question is, how did you attach the "C" channel to the floor and how is the shell and the flooring mated to the frame in the area of the bedroom where you removed the old flooring?

Apologies to HiHoAgRV for asking this question here, but catson4 does not appear to have his own thread on this repair.




Simply installing new floor without the proper reconnection of the frame/floor/shell interface will seriously compromise the strength and expected life of the trailer.



If the mush of what was left of the original OSB crapboard was allowed to remain as an interface between the shell and frame it will soon degrade to nothing. What soon follow after the disintegration of the OSB would be a severe case of rear end separation.
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