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Old 08-04-2014, 09:45 AM   #29
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1972 31' Sovereign
Valparaiso , Indiana
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That sounds like it would work. Would there be any inherit benefit of having the 20' piece of lumber - strength ?


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Old 08-04-2014, 10:23 AM   #30
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1970 31' Sovereign
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My 31' Sovereign is lifted as we speak. I have 2 short pieces of 2x8 under the front and back vents. Just make sure they are long enough to reach under the ribs in front and behind each vent. I've had it up and down many times as I worked on it and it's amazingly rigid. And my interior skins are completely removed. No need to lug a huge beam in there.
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Old 08-04-2014, 11:42 AM   #31
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1972 31' Sovereign
Valparaiso , Indiana
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Drchris

Any pictures you could share? Did you separate the c channel from the shell and leave it attached to the subfloor or did you remove the c channel from the floor and lift the c channel with the frame?

I'm trying to do the former. Very nervous that I've got all attachment points free from the shell and c channel.


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Old 08-04-2014, 11:59 AM   #32
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1973 21' Globetrotter
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On a 70's trailer, you will leave the front and rear curved sections of "U" channel attached to the shell, and just make sure all of the bolts holding the channel to the floor/frame are out. The C/U channels that go along the sides of the trailer wrap under the subfloor, so you will need to drill out all the rivets that hold these to the shell and leave them on the floor when you lift. Try running a putty knive between the shell and the channels you are leaving behind to both cut through the sealant and to ensure that all of the rivets are fully separated.
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Old 08-05-2014, 08:32 AM   #33
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1970 31' Sovereign
Gastonia , North Carolina
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Actually, on mine there is only a "U" channel on top of the floor. Nothing wraps around the edge of the plywood. I simply slid a sawzall blade under the bottom channel from the outside and cut all the way around. Had to trim some of the outer skin to get better access, but it'll be covered by trim later. My entire channel is lifted with the shell. I'll try and get some photos tomorrow. In fact I was thinking of posting a complete renovation thread if it'll help others going through the same thing.
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Old 08-21-2014, 01:19 PM   #34
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Just wanted to share that I did exactly what drchris said. Got my chain hoists from harbor freight and lifted shell very easily with strap around a 4x6 located in the fore and aft vent holes. Hopefully you can see that from the pictures above.
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Old 08-22-2014, 12:35 AM   #35
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1970 31' Sovereign
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Awesome work. Now, the real fun begins tearing up that decking and cleaning out the belly pan. Did mine from above after the deck was off. Read too many stories here of guys laying underneath that rotted-animal-carcass-pink-insulation-molten-mess-within. Wasn't going there.

BTW, I ran into a balance issue too. Ended up taking the door off to even the weight. Hangs nice and straight now
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Old 10-06-2014, 04:58 PM   #36
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2008 16' Bambi
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Hi Guys, I just read all the posts on lifting the Shell. I am doing the floor in my 2008 Bambi. I have all the interior removed less the ceiling panels. All the bolts and screws out from around the inside of the shell. It appears that this "C"/"U" channel wraps under the plywood on mine. I am in the process of removing the lower rivets and the belly and radius edges are removed. So once all the rivets are removed from the exterior and at the bottom of the ribs this shell should lift off? I am going to jack it off the frame so how much bracing do I need. I see from the pic's of lifting it off from a hoist there are no bracing at all. On a 16' is the shell strong enough, other than what I need to lift with? Any help will be great!
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Old 10-07-2014, 08:58 AM   #37
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Wow, a shell-off on a 2008! That must have been some leaky trailer.

Yes, once the rivets are drilled out, and all bolts removed, your shell should be liftable. Your shell is certainly strong enough to hold its shape without any cribbing or bracing. BUT, if you intend to jack it up rather than hoist it from above, you will need to build bracing in order to have something to lift against. Your shell only weighs a few hundred pounds, but if your bracing fails and the shell drops to the ground, you could do a lot of expensive damage--probably better to over brace, than to under brace. But I would still suggest that by the time you buy the lumber and build a bunch of bracing inside the shell, you could have built a set of gantry frames and lifted the shell from above, and IMHO had a safer lift.
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:25 AM   #38
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2008 16' Bambi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Belegedhel View Post
Wow, a shell-off on a 2008! That must have been some leaky trailer.

Yes, once the rivets are drilled out, and all bolts removed, your shell should be liftable. Your shell is certainly strong enough to hold its shape without any cribbing or bracing. BUT, if you intend to jack it up rather than hoist it from above, you will need to build bracing in order to have something to lift against. Your shell only weighs a few hundred pounds, but if your bracing fails and the shell drops to the ground, you could do a lot of expensive damage--probably better to over brace, than to under brace. But I would still suggest that by the time you buy the lumber and build a bunch of bracing inside the shell, you could have built a set of gantry frames and lifted the shell from above, and IMHO had a safer lift.
It had a broken window and the PO did not cover it up and it got really wet in the rear. I also found it had been leaking around the water tank in the front and buckled the floor, so off it comes. I have been doing Older trailer restorations but this is my first AS. A was amazed at the few screws and more silicone holding the interior together, not what I expected from an Airstream. Thank you for your advise. Drilling the rivets this morning and bracing it up I'll post some pictures for you all to view!
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