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Old 01-10-2011, 04:53 PM   #99
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2x2 and triangulate between the top and bottom beams? I would definitely need the diagonal middle bracing..?
I kind of thought the 3x6 main rails and 3x6 crossmembers would add a lot of strength against flating to the side, and it's what I could find cheap.

Wouldn't triangulating between the 3x6 and old frame be stronger?
If I get the belly pan off and my old frame is junk. Could I use the 3x6 on the bottom and 2x2 on top? Is that just adding weight with no added strength? I'm gussin all of the strength comes from the truss'es width, but I'm concerned about all of the weight resting on 2x2 in 4 spots. You saw the crazy amount of water I want to hold, right? lol. If I hit a really bad bump, all of the force will fall on the welds. I was kind of thinking the 3x6 could spread some of the load by it's self, especially from a direct hit from bottoming out.
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Old 01-10-2011, 06:36 PM   #100
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tri

I have no idea what you are talking about, but triangles might be the strongest structural shape known to man.
The Effects of Shapes
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Old 01-10-2011, 10:22 PM   #101
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Well, I will admit I was a little confused by some of the sketches. Sure, 3x6 box tubing would be stout, and you could build a heck of a frame with it. You are correct that the point of maximum stress will be right around where the axles connect, and you'll want to beef that area up no matter how you go about it.

Personally, I'd ditch the OEM frame altogether. With an Airstream the shell bolts to the floor. So there's really no reason to save any of the original stuff from the floor down. I'd use the original floor as a template to shape the new floor and frame, but then bolt the shell directly to my new beefy frame, rather than trying to jury rig the OEM frame to the new one.

Now that I recall, there is a picture somewhere on these forums of a guy who did something similar to what you're talking about. He built a real beast. I think he had a triple axle utility trailer; like a bull dozer hauler or something, and he set the Airstream shell on top of it. He had diamond tread plate on the front, and it was set up to haul a motorcycle up front, just like you showed in your sketch. Like others on here have said, the resale of something like that would be about fifty cents, but it was cool in its own right. I'm not sure what to tell you to search under, but it's on here.

On your water tanks, I'd recommend you put the freshwater tank ahead of the axles and the gray between them. You'll likely tow with the fresh tank full and the others empty. You want the water weight forward of the axles for stability. i can't see you pulling it much with the gray tank full and the fresh empty. I've never done much of that. But anyway, you don't want a hulking big tank aft of the axles full of water with nothing forward to balance it out. Remember the CG rule; 10-15% ahead of the center of the axles.

You may have said it earlier and I missed it, but what is your tow vehicle? You're going to need at least a 3/4 ton heavy duty to pull this thing. Not a big deal, but just hate to see you go to all this work and try to pull it with a 150. You're gonna need more beef than that
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Old 01-10-2011, 11:19 PM   #102
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It's a 94 GMC 2500 6.5 turbo diesel extended cab, regular bed.
I really need to stop drawing in pen. I was just trying to convey the gist of things. I plan to use CAD once I have a more definite plan.

I'm going to try to draw another one, a bit more clearly. Altered.
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Old 01-13-2011, 09:56 PM   #103
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Hey Eddie, where's that sketch?

Sounds like you've got enough truck. Those weren't the most powerful horse on the track, but they were powerful enough. And, more importantly, you've got enough chassis to handle this rig.

Time to start welding
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Old 01-15-2011, 04:32 AM   #104
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It took me a few days to confirm that this route is possible. What do you think of 3x6 bottom and top rails, 4x6 tounge triangle, cut chunks of 3x6 6" long for between top and bottom rail and space them about 3' from each other. The cross members would be mostly 2x3 with a few 3x6 and a 4x5. Outriggers would be 2x2, or 2x3 on top and either the same size or smaller rail running down to the lower main beam. I had thought of using angle iron under the c-channel, maybe that would be good? The shop didn't have any 2"x2" -1/4". I do have 8 20' 2"x2"-1/8ish". I planned on using them for the tool hauler but I might have extra.
The PO of the trailer shop told me the tool hauler was called a "slide box", so I guess it's a common thing. I've have seen custom removable rigs, they either didn't have the jacks on or they rarely use a loading dock/tree.
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Old 01-15-2011, 04:44 AM   #105
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Old 01-15-2011, 04:52 AM   #106
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Most of the solid black goes to the other side, the wavey lines are 2" foam panels. The 3x6 is 24' long, and the tanks are different sizes from what I first thought.
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Old 01-15-2011, 05:12 AM   #107
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I would tow it more often if I knew the bath wasn't going to fall off, and I have been working on this one home. Now I'm done and have no clue where I will end up. I could go day to day or work on jobs that take months.
I guess, I believe options are exponential. Being stuck is no fun and expensive.
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Old 01-15-2011, 07:06 AM   #108
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Raised Frame

I was at a rally a couple of years ago where someone had recently purchased one of the round-the-world airstreams. Apparently many of the airstreams had the frame beefed up by placing an additional channel iron frame the length of the trailer. As I recall it was 6" channel. Here is the only photo I had of this trailer but you can see the additional frame welded to the tongue.
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Old 01-15-2011, 11:01 AM   #109
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That would do it, but somewhere along the way i got the "bright?" idea to add 500 gallons.

The center tanks support, slides out the back not the side, as pictured.

When it's all said and done, i don't think most people would notice the difference at first glance. I'm adding 14" to the frame not 24"

It's funny, I think the original stairs might fold down enough to still work. I could always use a foot stool.
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Old 01-15-2011, 01:42 PM   #110
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Just buy an AVION that already HAS the bus frame and garages.

Paula
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Old 01-15-2011, 01:52 PM   #111
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500 gallons weighs 4175 lbs. 8.35 lbs per gallon... I don't know about you, but I'm a bit wary of towing 4000 lbs or more of moving liquid, AND a trailer that looks close to 10,000 lbs unladen weight. The average HOUSE only has a 30 gallon hot water tank.

You might want to change things a little so the water is around 10% of the trailer weight or less.
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Old 01-15-2011, 05:41 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foiled Again View Post
Just buy an AVION that already HAS the bus frame and garages.

Paula
Well that's not as fun.


Dave-
I don't plan to travel with a ton of water. I would get close and fill up in town, then park it for a month. I could also make short hops, to each pull off, like highway 1 along the west coast.
If there is too much fresh water, I'll convert some in to gray water tanks.
I have been debating the configuration, I will either, have the tanks run side to side or length wise, or a set of both. I think side to side will win out, as I doubt this thing will flip easily. This s would give me more control of the tongue weight.

I made a diagram of a very efficient (as far as piping) way of moving water from any tank to any tank. I plan to travel with tanks empty or completely full, starting from the center out. This should cut down on the "liquid effect".

I've heard AS tanks are expensive, I might sell my original ones and buy a bigger black tank. The biggest tanks, I saw, on ebay were 40 gallon, I think mine is 20. It would be easier to install a new tank then making the old one work.
The original tank is shallow and the pitch isn't great. That means more water wasted to empty the tank, especially when using a macerate pump. It also means more black to move when using the blue rolling waste tote.
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