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Old 02-02-2012, 02:59 PM   #99
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My friend, Ralph, came over this afternoon and helped with some of the housekeeping described in the last post and then we conducted a water test two times from the bottom up, marking leak locations with a permanent marker on the inside. I want to make an initial pass at fixing these leaks and then Iíll re-run the water test and do a second wave of sealing before I tear out the remainder of the floor in the C channel, remove the bolts, banana wraps and floor pan to prep and paint the frame with POR 15.

Below, you can see a sample of some of the pictures of leaks and body work that needs to be done. If you want to see more pictures, go over to the album where these photos are hosted and peruse them.






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Old 02-02-2012, 03:01 PM   #100
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This is one of two walking (weight distribution) boards that I made when I worked on the roof to replace the Kool-O-Matic with the Fantastic Fan Vent and other work on the top. On the top, I put the carpet side down and ran the boards aligned lengthwise with the trailer. On the inside, Iíll have the carpet side up.


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Old 02-02-2012, 06:08 PM   #101
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Steve,
The progress is looking good! While you are deep into the rebuild, consider routing a wire and drain tube for an optional 2nd AC unit. If you are ever thinking about a 30 - 50 amp upgrade, now is a great time also.

Otherwise known as "while your doing this..."
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Old 02-02-2012, 06:47 PM   #102
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Vernon,
Adding the wiring and drain provisions now is a good idea to consider. I've read your thread on adding the second AC and how you routed the tube adjacent to the black water vent pipe, etc. (pretty clever in my opinion).

My late breaking news is that I've peeled back the sheet metal under the aft two-thirds of the vanity and discovered where a lot of the water is apparently coming into the bathroom. Tomorrow, it's supposed to rain a fair amount so I plan to sit in the trailer with my red marker.

More to come....
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:36 PM   #103
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Hi, WOW; It's bad that you seem to have so many leaks, but good that you will be able to fix them all. I agree that now is the time to prepare for any add-ons while things are apart.
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Old 02-03-2012, 08:15 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Bryant View Post
Vernon,
Adding the wiring and drain provisions now is a good idea to consider. I've read your thread on adding the second AC and how you routed the tube adjacent to the black water vent pipe, etc....More to come....
Had I been in a position with a bunch of interior skins removed, I would have routed the drain down the street side wall, thus the timing of my suggestion.

Good luck with the leaks...it's amazing how much water can pour thru a small hole.
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Old 02-04-2012, 08:08 PM   #105
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I mentioned a few posts back that I had discovered that my trailer has internal doublers (shown below). The interesting thing is that the leaks on the road/left side are much more numerous and much worse than on the curb/right side.
Road Side


Curb Side


Further investigation shows that the internal doubler on the road side is installed with Olympic rivets (pop with internal shank remaining) while the curb side is installed with bucked 1/8Ē AN470/MS20470 rivets.
Road Side Detail


Curb Side Detail
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Old 02-04-2012, 08:09 PM   #106
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Catson4 had a nearly identical floor rot/leak pattern in his 1991 34í Limited trailer (see post http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/lots-of-rotten-floor-54952-2.html#post736899) as did Vernon [AKA HiHoAgRV] on his1991 34í Excella (see posts http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/lots-of-rotten-floor-54952-4.html#post739745 and http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/lots-of-rotten-floor-54952-5.html#post741151). Iím wondering if Iím seeing a common thread hereÖparticularly on the rear road side leaks and rot.
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Old 02-04-2012, 08:11 PM   #107
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As you can see from the pictures below, my C Chanel has compressed a bit at the interface with the frame/outriggers. Iíll straighten this up after the procedure that Iíll describe in the next post.




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Old 02-04-2012, 08:12 PM   #108
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Now, I need some expert opinions on my next planned maneuver, so chime in after youíve read my plan! Iíve decided to pull the belly pan, banana wraps and bow the frame down when I can catch a streak of good weather and Iíll prep and paint the frame surfaces from above and below when I can get full access. In order to bow the frame down, Iím planning to remove the rear bumper and surrounding sheet metal. Then Iíll cut a couple of 2X6 pieces of lumber about 5 feet long each. Then Iím planning to build a platform stretching across these wood 2X6 frame extensions and load the platform with enough bricks (readily available from next door neighbor) to drop the aft portion of the frame a bit. Iíll first brace the frame just aft of the rear wheels with my jack stands.

Once the frame and outrigger bolts are removed Iíll temporarily bow the aft frame down away from the monocoque shell enough to give about a half inch clearance between the two. Then I can prep and POR 15 the top portions of the frame along with the sides and bottoms. While the frame is bowed and I have the clearance, Iíll insert the plywood subfloor while the upper shell is clear of the frame.

Iím planning to drill out the Olympic rivets on the road side replace them with bucked 5/32Ē AN470/MS20470 style rivets (one size or 1/32 oversize) because a number of these holes leak. Iíll probably put some TremPro 635 caulking in the holes before I install the rivets.

Then, on the rear corner sections where the rivets passing through the bottom C channel is elongating the holes in the skin, Iíll drill out a bunch of the rivets in the immediate area and install something like an internal ďelephant earĒ doubler along with some strong aluminum angel. Iíll rivet this all together with bucked rivets. At least thatís my plan. I donít own a rivet gunÖyet. And Iíve never driven a rivetÖyet. But I plan to learn to rivet with a fair amount of competence because right now, I think that this is the soundest approach for a good structural repair. OK, tell me what you think about this approach.
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Old 02-04-2012, 09:29 PM   #109
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The rear part of the frame will drop about 3/4" of an inch when you cut all the bolts loose at the rear. Not a bad idea to put a floor jack under the frame to support it. Otherwise you will have the entire weight of the frame hanging from the last bolt you cut. The frame is supported by the shell. If you do not take the L-shapped steel plate off the back you will have to section the plywood to get it all in there. If you remove the steel plate, you are going to have to put buck rivets back in there.

Perry
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Old 02-06-2012, 11:19 PM   #110
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Does anyone else have any suggestions for this boy?
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Old 02-07-2012, 04:55 PM   #111
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Perry,
I appreciate your input. Using a floor jack will be a lot easier than what I had envisioned. It's snowing today and too cold to be out...so it will be a few days before I do anything.

Does anyone have pictures of doing skin/frame reinforcement on these models. I have a number of ideas, but I don't want to reinvent the wheel.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 02-07-2012, 06:45 PM   #112
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Some thoughts

Hi Steve,
I was typing a reply to you earlier today and I totally lost all of my typing! Grrr.
You have done an excellent job of documenting your problems. They are typical of Airstreams of this era. OSB just isn't the right flooring choice for Airstreams.
First, about skin reinforcement, read Aerowood's thread on his GT. Lots of great information there about skins and rivets. Aerowood is the rivet Guru around here.

As far as the meat and potatoes of your floor replacement, you should jack and level the trailer so that the wheels are about six inches off the ground. When you cut the bolts from the U channel and release the frame from the shell, the frame will droop about two inches if you have no support for it behind the axle mounting plate. That will give you plenty of room to properly clean and paint the frame. If you need more room, you can use a jack and a 4x4 on a crossmember to push the frame down a bit. Be careful not to over do it or you'll have a bent frame. This will allow you to slide in full width sheets of plywood from the rear of the trailer. There are lots of ways to replace a floor in an Airstream. Just remember the fewer seams and joints you have, the better. If you get a chance you can read "Abby gets some separation H" Good luck! We're here to help and support you.
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