Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-18-2012, 04:10 PM   #71
Moderator
 
HiHoAgRV's Avatar

 
1991 34' Excella
1963 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Central , Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,326
Images: 29
Blog Entries: 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by beckybillrae View Post
... I prefer TremPro to Parbond. I've tried all the sealants & like it the best. It never gets hard like Parbond can do after a few years.
I agree with Becky, everyone has a favorite and mine is Tempro (even though it HAS to be the messiest compound known to mankind). I sealed my new LED sidemarkers with Parbond and the stuff has already spider cracked. Tempro can be applied cleanly in thin lines using masking tape as a boundry and it does stay flexible.
__________________

__________________
Hi Ho Silver RV! Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie -
A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy http://www.airforums.com/forums/f205...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ome-71609.html
HiHoAgRV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2012, 05:12 PM   #72
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5,648
Well here in Alabama lately we have had no need for water hoses. It has rained more than not here lately. I keep thinking I have me leaks fixed and it is still there. I would remove some interior skin where the leak is on the floor and see where the water is coming from. You will most likely need to pull the stinky pink stuff out as well. It is not much trouble to remove the lower skins. Now you can tell where the leak is coming from. Is it coming from the adjacent section, the window above, or some rivets. You can't tell exactly where the leak is but you can narrow it down to a few square feet. My most persistant leak is in the Z-stringer rivet line to the right of the door frame. I put sealer on one last rivet under the awning so cross your fingers that I got it this time.

Perry
__________________

__________________
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2012, 09:42 PM   #73
Rivet Master
 
ROBERTSUNRUS's Avatar

 
2005 25' Safari
Salem , Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 7,268
Images: 18
Blog Entries: 51
Hi, Steve. Looks like a lot of work. I sure hope you find the leaks and don't use OSB to fix your floor.
__________________
Bob

2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent"
[ Small Silver Castle ]
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
ROBERTSUNRUS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2012, 10:47 PM   #74
Rivet Master
 
Steve Bryant's Avatar

 
1991 34' Limited
Wichita , Kansas
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 736
Images: 7
All,
Looking at the pictures in post 61 http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ml#post1095129 do you think that I should remove all of the insulation from the walls behind the lower side panels in the rear bedroom before doing the leak check? Note: I'll be removing the lower side wall interior on the curb side too, I just have about five more rivets to remove and saw a vertical kerf on the front of the panel.

Robert,
I'm planning to use 5/8 (AKA 19/32") ABX plywood for the floor and coat it top, bottom and edges with marine epoxy. I'll mill the edges with an electric hand planer like Vernon did on his floor (the factory used this same method on the OSB).
__________________
Steve Bryant is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2012, 10:52 PM   #75
Rivet Master
 
ROBERTSUNRUS's Avatar

 
2005 25' Safari
Salem , Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 7,268
Images: 18
Blog Entries: 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Bryant View Post
All,
Looking at the pictures in post 61 http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ml#post1095129 do you think that I should remove all of the insulation from the walls behind the lower side panels in the rear bedroom before doing the leak check? Note: I'll be removing the lower side wall interior on the curb side too, I just have about five more rivets to remove and saw a vertical kerf on the front of the panel.

Robert,
I'm planning to use 5/8 (AKA 19/32") ABX plywood for the floor and coat it top, bottom and edges with marine epoxy. I'll mill the edges with an electric hand planer like Vernon did on his floor (the factory used this same method on the OSB).
Hi, Steve. Unless you see signs of leakage, and/or wet matted insulation in these areas, I wouldn't remove the insulation. From your pictures, the insulation looks good.
__________________
Bob

2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent"
[ Small Silver Castle ]
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
ROBERTSUNRUS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2012, 11:05 PM   #76
Rivet Master
 
Steve Bryant's Avatar

 
1991 34' Limited
Wichita , Kansas
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 736
Images: 7
Robert,
Thanks for your input. I'm inclined to agree with you and just try to find the leaks once I remove the last lower interior panel. Then, if I can't really tell where the leaks are coming from, I can judiciously start removing the insulation. I sure don't want to create work and expense for myself.
__________________
Steve Bryant is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2012, 07:06 AM   #77
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5,648
I don't think you are going to be able to tell much with the insulation on there. I think I was able to reinsulate the rear section you have exposed in about half a day using two layers of RMAX rigid foam with the aluminum on both sides. That stuff is easy to work with and it won't hold water. I was also able to seal around the tail light buckets and rivets that were never sealed from the awning mounts. You will probably have better R value that way. The problem with the pink stuff is that it has to become saturated before you even see a leak. Then it takes a long time to dry out. You can clean out the C-channel and waterproof that to keep water away from the sub floor. I cut some little sections of aluminum to bridge the gap between the end cap C-channel and the straight wall section C-channel. I glued them in with Tempro. These gaps are a major floor rot problem. You want to seal all the screws and bolts that go through the C-channel.

Perry
__________________
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2012, 10:01 AM   #78
Rivet Master
 
Steve Bryant's Avatar

 
1991 34' Limited
Wichita , Kansas
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 736
Images: 7
Perry, I'll look into the RMAX. Also, do you have any pictures of the bridge that you caulked/bonded into place between the C channel sections. I get the point, I'm just wondering about your approach.

Thanks,

Steve
__________________
Steve Bryant is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2012, 10:04 AM   #79
Rivet Master
 
Steve Bryant's Avatar

 
1991 34' Limited
Wichita , Kansas
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 736
Images: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by beckybillrae View Post
I have found some really small leaks by placing toilet paper along the area where I suspect the leak is coming from (if access to the inside is available). I then spray the outside from the bottom-up, waiting a minute or so for the toilet paper to have time to show if there is any moisture. It's much more sensitive to the moisture than a paper towel & if you string it up along the area where you think it's coming from, you can pinpoint it. It's a tedious thing, but I've been pretty successful that way.
Becky,
I've been pondering this technique and I can see its merit. I assume that I would need to strip out the fiberglas first. Is that correct? Do you have a thread or any pictures of how you've done this.

Thanks in advance,

Steve
__________________
Steve Bryant is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2012, 12:59 PM   #80
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5,648
I don't think I took a photo of it. I took a scrap piece of aluminum and bent it to a C or U shape to match the C-channel and just glued it in with Tempro. If you really want to be thorough you could also put a drain tube on each side of the bridge to drain the water under the floor that normally would have been on top of the floor. Something like this. You just want to make sure the pipe is sealed well to the C-channel so you don't end up soaking the wood. I was thinking something like copper or stainless tubing with the flare at the end where it goes through the C-channel. You can distort the hole in the C-channel with a tapered punch or awl to countersink the hole a little to fit the pipe flare.


Perry


Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Bryant View Post
Perry, I'll look into the RMAX. Also, do you have any pictures of the bridge that you caulked/bonded into place between the C channel sections. I get the point, I'm just wondering about your approach.

Thanks,

Steve
__________________
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2012, 02:26 PM   #81
Rivet Master
 
Steve Bryant's Avatar

 
1991 34' Limited
Wichita , Kansas
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 736
Images: 7
Perry,
This is a very deluxe answer with the solid depiction. I'd rate this as a Five Star Reply!!!

BTW, what sort of drawing/rendering program are you using. It's pretty cool!

Thanks,

Steve
__________________
Steve Bryant is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2012, 04:18 PM   #82
Rivet Master
 
Becky B.'s Avatar
 
1964 17' Bambi II
Vintage Kin Owner
Schererville , Indiana
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,617
Images: 19
It's much easier to find leaks if your interior is open. As long as you have your interior walls removed, it's very easy to remove the insulation & it's really not a big deal to replace it (I used Prodex in my trailer so the mice won't make nests in it!). All you do, once you have a bare wall, is take toilet paper & stick it to the wall in the area where you think the leak is coming from. Then spray with the hose (if you have a helper, they'll see pretty quickly where the water is coming in). Here's a picture of my interior. I had a leak next to the door & sealed what I thought was the leak....alas, it wasn't. It turned out to be a rivet at the very bottom of my toilet paper drapery!!Attachment 149204

I left the toilet paper up for a while to make sure it stayed dry through some rain & snow. It did--I just haven't had time to work on the trailer lately, so I'm officially leak-free. I've tracked down leaks in what is now my 3rd AS & they are truly a PITA!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	toilet paper leak detector.jpg
Views:	131
Size:	469.7 KB
ID:	149205  
__________________
Becky


1964 Bambi II
1988 Avion 32S
Becky B. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2012, 05:35 PM   #83
Rivet Master
 
Steve Bryant's Avatar

 
1991 34' Limited
Wichita , Kansas
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 736
Images: 7
Becky,
Thanks for expanding on your technique and providing the picture! I did a search on Prodex and it appears to be pretty interesting stuff. Also, I did a brief walk around inspection of the exterior of my trailer today (it's in the mid to upper 20s outside ... not a good day to work on the trailer) and I can see a number of things that need to have the caulking cleaned off and re-caulked. The awning support hinge attachments are very questionable as to whether they are water tight or not.

Pulling out the insulation will be fairly easy where I have the interior skin removed.

Thanks very much!

Steve
__________________
Steve Bryant is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2012, 06:26 PM   #84
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5,648
It is called AutoDesk Inventor. It has made by the same folks that make AutoCAD. It is a 3D modeling program. I have gotten to the point where I hardly ever draw anything in 2D. The program makes all the projections for me. There are folks that use Google Sketch I think and it is free. I am trying to teach myself how to do CNC machining next. I will be able to make some custom parts for Airstreams or whatever. I have a motorcycle parts business right now and I design the parts and have them made locally. If I can make them myself I can save a ton of money and sell stuff more competitively.

Perry

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Bryant View Post
Perry,
This is a very deluxe answer with the solid depiction. I'd rate this as a Five Star Reply!!!

BTW, what sort of drawing/rendering program are you using. It's pretty cool!

Thanks,

Steve
__________________

__________________
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:52 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.