Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 12-27-2011, 04:46 PM   #57
Rivet Master
 
Steve Bryant's Avatar

 
1991 34' Limited
Wichita , Kansas
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 739
Images: 7
Perry, I think that your trailer construction is pretty similar to my '91. Once I get back to working on it, I'll take more pictures. I appreciate the time that you've taken to submit and add the labels to your picture.

I'm still working on my NT-35K Suburban Furnace ... (today repainted the cabinet inside and out today and some portions of the heat exchanger with 1200 F exhaust manifold/header paint). I've made some replacement gaskets, etc., too, as most parts for this furnace have not been readily available for several years.
__________________

__________________
Steve Bryant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2011, 08:45 PM   #58
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5,649
Make sure you fire that thing up outside the trailer for the first time. There will be a lot of volitiles coming off that paint till all the binders cook off.

Perry
__________________

__________________
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2011, 05:41 PM   #59
New Member
 
1973 25' Tradewind
Tulsa , Oklahoma
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Bryant
OK, this is a test. I have an account at PhotoBucket too and I would like for you good folks to test this picture and see if it causes any trouble in the way of a fake virus program or anything like that.

Then, please let me know your results. If the results are good, I'll work with Aage to get the previous post links fixed.

Steve
I had no trouble viewing the picture.
__________________
weggie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2012, 01:17 PM   #60
Rivet Master
 
Steve Bryant's Avatar

 
1991 34' Limited
Wichita , Kansas
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 739
Images: 7
For anyone who is interested, here's the link to my Suburban NT-35K Cleaning and Refurbishing Thread http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...ace-86137.html. Now, soon I'll get back to the floor and leak issues.

Steve
__________________
Steve Bryant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2012, 06:08 PM   #61
Rivet Master
 
Steve Bryant's Avatar

 
1991 34' Limited
Wichita , Kansas
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 739
Images: 7
Here's a bit of an update. Ralph and I pulled the interior skin from the most of the rear bedroom. I still need to saw a vertical kerf in the curb side panel (aft of the closet and behind the chest of drawers so it will be hidden later).





__________________
Steve Bryant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2012, 06:15 PM   #62
Rivet Master
 
Steve Bryant's Avatar

 
1991 34' Limited
Wichita , Kansas
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 739
Images: 7
I used an oscillating multi-tool with a saw blade installed to saw a kerf of limited depth on the interior skin. This is the first time that I've used this tool which I just bought through Amazon for this job as it's first initiation. I've thought about buying one of these for three to five years, but never took the plunge. I'm really impressed with its capabilities. The Porter Cable is a good tool as are a number of others on the market.

__________________
Steve Bryant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2012, 06:37 PM   #63
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5,649
Why are you leaving any of that floor in there or are you just trying to get it out in managible chunks? I have a Dremel version of that tool and you can do some pretty cool stuff that you can't do with any other tool. The Dremel versions have weak speed controllers and they die an early death. Mine has bit the dust once already. The same goes for their rotary tools. I call that type of saw a bone saw because the surgeons have been using them for a while now. I used mine when I had rot problems on the back of my house when my window seals went south. I saved the windows with the saw by cutting right up to the glass to get the rotten wood out then made a new frame out of oak. I wish they made a hack saw attachment. Mine will only cut wood.


Perry
__________________
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2012, 06:57 PM   #64
Rivet Master
 
Steve Bryant's Avatar

 
1991 34' Limited
Wichita , Kansas
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 739
Images: 7
Now, here are my questions for any who would care to respond.
  1. How's the best way to determine where my leaks are coming from? I plan to start at the bottom and spray the heck out of the sides while someone else watches the inside. I may need to pull the insulation to see what's really going on.
  2. Are there any guidelines on what seams need to be sealed and the best approach. I have TremPro 635 caulking sealant and Parbond on hand.
If anyone has a good thread or two that they could link me to; that would be appreciated.

Steve
__________________
Steve Bryant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2012, 07:04 PM   #65
Rivet Master
 
Steve Bryant's Avatar

 
1991 34' Limited
Wichita , Kansas
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 739
Images: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
Why are you leaving any of that floor in there or are you just trying to get it out in managible chunks?
Perry
Perry,
I'm going to replace the rear seven feet or so from side to side (in three parallel pieces). I'll also replace the floor under the bathroom. I'm just leaving the floor in place for now so that I have something to stand on until I've got everything done that I can before removing it, which won't be too long from now (weather permitting).
__________________
Steve Bryant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2012, 08:10 PM   #66
Moderator
 
HiHoAgRV's Avatar

 
1991 34' Excella
1963 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Central , Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,329
Images: 29
Blog Entries: 49
That's great looking work Steve. Finding the leaks is tough and I have not found a magic method. I'm thinking of using a cage fan to pressure the interior...and see where soap bubbles...I'm not too confident on that as a back yard method.... I have at least one leak that my 'reseal everything' method has missed on the '91...the '63 has some leaks that I can sling a cat thru...
__________________
Hi Ho Silver RV! Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie -
A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy http://www.airforums.com/forums/f205...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ome-71609.html
HiHoAgRV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2012, 11:43 PM   #67
Rivet Master
 
Steve Bryant's Avatar

 
1991 34' Limited
Wichita , Kansas
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 739
Images: 7
Vernon, thanks for your kind words and encouragement. We all need encouragement and advice.

I've read about pressurizing the interior and seen pictures of the commercial equipment that has been sold to do this for RVs.
__________________
Steve Bryant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2012, 07:04 AM   #68
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5,649
You think the bathroom leak was internal?

Here are some threads on my leak saga and these are second order leaks not the first order bumper plate leak.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456...aks-85248.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f454...ems-86517.html

Perry
__________________
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2012, 03:25 PM   #69
Rivet Master
 
Steve Bryant's Avatar

 
1991 34' Limited
Wichita , Kansas
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 739
Images: 7
Perry, thanks for the links to the threads. I will study them carefully!

Steve
__________________
Steve Bryant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2012, 04:05 PM   #70
Rivet Master
 
Becky B.'s Avatar
 
1964 17' Bambi II
Vintage Kin Owner
Schererville , Indiana
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,617
Images: 19
I have found some really small leaks by placing toilet paper along the area where I suspect the leak is coming from (if access to the inside is available). I then spray the outside from the bottom-up, waiting a minute or so for the toilet paper to have time to show if there is any moisture. It's much more sensitive to the moisture than a paper towel & if you string it up along the area where you think it's coming from, you can pinpoint it. It's a tedious thing, but I've been pretty successful that way. I prefer TremPro to Parbond. I've tried all the sealants & like it the best. It never gets hard like Parbond can do after a few years. I should add, that if access to the inside wall isn't available, you can still use the TP along the floor & at least pinpoint the area in the wall where the water is coming from. You do need to follow it up from the bottom up to the top, including all vents, to trace where it's coming from. I've tried the blower, etc. and have been most successful with the old hose method!
__________________

__________________
Becky


1964 Bambi II
1988 Avion 32S
Becky B. is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:23 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.