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Old 12-19-2011, 02:45 PM   #29
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I have often wondered how to renew/change photo links on old threads. A moderator would have to be involved to go in and change the links. If you don't have a web sight to host on, pbase.com is a good place but it is not free. There are no adds or popups or any kind of advertising. 1G is like $23 for a year. It is easy to manage and you can just send links to relatives. I use to use them a lot before I started putting stuff on my web page account. You can go there and look at photos others have posted. A lot of digital photo buffs use the sight to host photos.

Perry
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:18 PM   #30
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Perry,
Thanks, I'm working with Aage on this now. Once I relocate the pictures, he will help me edit the posts after the fact. My only concern about a fee-based picture hosting site (other than the annual fee which I'd rather contribute to the upkeep of AirForums, in this case) is that in some ways, I'm trying to do this for posterity. Let's say that someday, I'm dead and gone (which is inevitable) or eight years from now I don't want to pay the fee; then the linked pictures evaporate and someone who may want to look at this thread to fix their AS can't see the pictures.

Anyway, I'm going to get this straightened out with Aage's help.

Thanks,

Steve
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Old 12-19-2011, 06:48 PM   #31
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Ok sounds good if you can host them here maybe they won't disappear.

Perry
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Old 12-20-2011, 12:30 PM   #32
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OK, this is a test. I have an account at PhotoBucket too and I would like for you good folks to test this picture and see if it causes any trouble in the way of a fake virus program or anything like that.



Then, please let me know your results. If the results are good, I'll work with Aage to get the previous post links fixed.

Steve
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Old 12-20-2011, 01:12 PM   #33
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It looks good to me Steve. It is big enough that you don't have click on it but I did and no virus programs.

Perry
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Old 12-20-2011, 01:30 PM   #34
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Looks fine to me. (Actually, that floor looks TERRIBLE!) No problems viewing it and the size is perfect!

Sue
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Old 12-20-2011, 01:45 PM   #35
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Shows up as clear as a bell, Steve. I can say that images posted with photobucket.com have not caused any issues on Airfurums.com that I am aware of, and I have used it myself since I began here...
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Old 12-20-2011, 01:54 PM   #36
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Ya think that leak was mainly caused by plumbing leaks?

Perry
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:52 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
Ya think that leak was mainly caused by plumbing leaks?

Perry
No, I don't know of any plumbing leaks. I think that the leaks eminated from the junction of the the exterior walls and the bumper sill/banana wrap area that was probably poorly sealed from the factory. I'll know more once I pull the lower interior skins and the exterior parts just mentioned.

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Old 12-20-2011, 11:37 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Bryant View Post
OK, this is a test. I have an account at PhotoBucket too and I would like for you good folks to test this picture and see if it causes any trouble in the way of a fake virus program or anything like that.



Then, please let me know your results. If the results are good, I'll work with Aage to get the previous post links fixed.

Steve
Hi, Steve; The new pictures are great and they don't need to be clicked-on to enlarge. Now we can all see what work has be cut-out for you. I will be following your progress. Thank You Steve.
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Old 12-21-2011, 07:45 AM   #39
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The photos look great, um, I mean they look horrible but show up great...nevermind...

One point I never made in my thread...don't get all cranked about trying to make the floor splices on top of a frame/cross member. Contrary to the prevailing assumptions the floor can be flatter and stronger if the splice is made between the rails/members AND has a good strong, glued backing plate (flash backs to Engineering Strengths of Materials class)

A splice on a narrow rail will tend to allow the two pieces of wood to slope upward at the splice and peak.

All of my splices that are on top of a rail show up, not bad but they are there. The doubler splices are flat as a pancake.
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Old 12-21-2011, 06:18 PM   #40
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Aage,
Thank you sir for reposting all of the new PhotoBucket links!!!

All,
I'll continue to work on my trailer and keep you apprised of the progress in the coming days as the weather permits. After I work on the furnace, I'll be tearing out the floor and belly insulation and then I'll do the two prep stages for POR-15 and paint two coats of POR-15 on the frame. Once the paint cures, I can start working on the plywood part.

I'd like recommendations and links to threads related to:
  1. Should I just use a steel wire brush or use my hand grinder with a wire wheel prior to the chemical prep?
  2. What are the best practices for prepping and applying POR-15?
    • Specifically should I pull the banana wraps in order to rinse the two prep products off (Marine Clean - degrease and Prep & Ready -etcher)? or
    • Can I just rinse with the belly Pan and banana wraps installed and wipe up the excess with towels?
  3. What kind of epoxy finish do you folks recommend for coating the plywood (I plan to coat both sides and the edges with two coats)?
  4. What are the current thoughts on replacing the pink fiberglass insulation (forget about insulation, use fiberglass again, use some other type of insulation)?
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Old 12-21-2011, 06:44 PM   #41
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Steve,
here's a link to my frame-off '63 thread where I painted the frame/epoxy'd the flooring. I used a twisted wire cup/angle grinder to knock off the rust.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...tml#post966651

On Edit...I have used the metal prep, but only when the surface was sand blasted.
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Old 12-21-2011, 07:50 PM   #42
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I put POR15 on mine with very little prep other than removing as much dirt from dirt dobber nests as I could. It will bond dirt, rust, and whatever very effectively. You do want to get any oil off. The prime source of this would be from penetrating oil used for getting bolts loose. It also WON'T come off your skin. No solvent will touch the stuff once it has dried. You want to make sure the metal is dry otherwise the stuff will cure before it bonds properly. I filled my frame beams with this stuff to kill any rust on the inside. I put tape over any holes and tilted the trailer down hill and little and poured the stuff in there. Then I tilted it back the other way a little. You want to make sure you don't stick a brush in the can because you could cause the whole can to harden before you finish. I would get as many loose chunks off as you can but don't try to get it down to bare metal. This stuff likes to bond to rust.

Perry
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