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Old 12-23-2012, 01:00 PM   #267
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Thanks for the kind words! I'll do another posting soon with more pictures. The rear floor is now all bolted in around the perimeter, the water heater temporarily installed and all of the major holes are closed with at least masking tape. The gas lines have been hooked up and the furnace is now operational again (as of yesterday). It's gotten pretty cold this past week and I'll only work on the trailer on the warmer days, even with the availability of heat.

All my best,

Steve
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:12 PM   #268
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Back at it yet?

Hope this finds you further along in your project.

I thought of you and Mr. Perry today while I finally bolted down the rear floor. Ended up cutting my own weight distribution plates out of 1/4" aluminum and have a new found appreciation for jig saws. Used the Luann templates from the floor. Simply cut the areas that fit into the c channel off where I wanted the aluminum plates. Easy!

Removed and repaired the rear end cap (it had cracks). Fiberglass and a rubber epoxy seems to have done the trick (for now). Removed the pink fiberglass and popped out two big dents in the roof line over the end cap. That felt good. It looks sooo much better. Sat in the rain and looked for leaks. Found none! Installed reflecting insulation layer (with spacers made from the foam installed under the floor). Getting ready to install rest of floor insulation and button up the wraps. I'm still trying to figure out how to configure the bumper plate. It's not going back between the frame and floor.

I'm thinking of attaching a trim piece (L shaped) of aluminum to the beltline and overlaping the original plate (trimmed to shape of curve) and riveting it together. A layer of sealant between the joint. I'll have to play with the idea tomorrow.

I'm taking pictures and hope to eventually share my saga.

I'm looking forward to doing the pretty decorating stuff. Hoping to be road worthy in the next month. I think once the floor is done, things should start moving faster.

Update us when you can!

Cristina
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:28 PM   #269
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Cristina,
Thanks for asking and congratulations on your progress. Yes, I'm back at it and my friend Ralph has been helping too. We've worked on the trailer about four days since Thanksgiving of last year. We've had a lot of cold, snowy weather in the past several months here in Wichita. I'll be posting some pictures soon.

The current focus is preventing leaks in the aluminum shell. The floor is all screwed down, but I still have leaks that must be addressed. My wife, daughter-in-law and son (and I) have also been looking at flooring, etc.

Regards,

Steve
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Old 05-11-2013, 09:36 AM   #270
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Christina,
I've just re-read your post (#268) and it really sounds like you've made a lot of progress. Last night, when I posted, I had been at a three hour high school graduation and I was pretty pooped.

It sounds like your aluminum plates and using the jig saw really worked out well. I have a big gap and a crack in my interior end cap that I need to address, too. I'm learning to use Acryl-R and Parr Bond to seal the little seams. It's kind of frustrating that something that should be so simple to make a nice filet is turning out to be so difficult for me.

I'll also try to finish up my approach to the bumper plate in the next few days and post some pictures.

Steve
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Old 05-12-2013, 11:11 AM   #271
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Floor, etc..

It's exciting to be thinking about putting it together and using it.

I've bought the floor. Went with a vinyl composite that click locks together. It is called Traffic Master Ultra Allure in a natural cherry. It's a little spendy but 100% waterproof and undergoes little to no contraction or expansion. It's going to be very pretty. The surface of the floor is molded to look like natural wood and it is slip resistant. Home Depot carries it. Going to be darkening up our cabinetry and plan on pulling the vinyl off the kitchen walls and going with aluminum there. Probably will go with a granite look alike laminate on all counter tops and finishing the edges with aluminum. Sealing, flooring, insulation, and other less fun things first.

I plan to strip and polish the external trailer above the end cap while it's removed. There's a good chance I'll push too hard and dent the thing. Might as well keep the access. I'm going to use acryl R on the seams after we polish it. I don't have parbond but there is a great video on how to apply it. Guy makes it look like a piece of cake. My experience with acryl-R was not pleasant but I did get the wing window to stop leaking. It's just not a pretty job. Good thing for razor blades. I read about using painters tape and a blade to trim out the exposed seam on one of the forums. Tedious work.

You may have seen this but here is a how to video...he makes it look sooo easy...Parbond - YouTube. Looks like the key is the solvent being used.
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Old 05-12-2013, 12:24 PM   #272
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I have found that the moving back and forth technique works well with the Parbond. Personally, I would not use Parbond on the rub rail. I would use it for smaller cracks and use the Trempro-635 for larger fillet type sealing. I have used Parbond as a first layer and sealed over that with the Trempro.

Perry
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:18 AM   #273
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Has anyone attempted to seal the leak from the inside? I have removed all of the decayed plywood and will be replacing with new 5/8 that has been sealed with penetrating epoxy. I have blown out the C-channel with compressed air and cleaned with MEK. Why not seal the seam with Tempro form the interior?
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:50 AM   #274
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Are you talking the rub rail leaks or bumper plate or what. You can't get to all the rivets from the inside to seal them. Some of them are bellow floor level behind the rub rail.

Perry
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Old 05-28-2013, 12:24 AM   #275
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It's encouraging to see some new posts on this thread. I've been working on the trailer for about a month now (along with assistance from my friend Ralph), but I haven't been posting like I should. Soo...I've got a lot of posting catch-up to do.

I've rebuilt the steps in three phases fairly recently. At first, I just replaced some of the bolts and fasteners that had a lot of wear or were broken. Then I discovered that the aft outrigger with the stair slider track was worn, so I welded an auxiliary plate on the side and have built up the track with some more weld bead. Then I shaped the track with die grinders and sanding discs. Next I decided that the outriggers on that right side really needed to be cleaned up and painted with POR15 since I have done this elsewhere. I reinstalled the steps and one of the main shoulder bolts fractured, so I ordered more step parts from Out of Doors Mart (great supplier).

Soon, I'll try to add more pictures and words to get everyone caught up to where I really am.

Regarding Parrbond and Acryl-R, I've found that Parrbond is much easier to use. However, I think that I prefer the Acryl-R to seal the small gaps. I'm using TremPro 635 everywhere else.

Steve
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Old 05-29-2013, 11:57 PM   #276
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Hi All,

The inside edge of the bumper plate is not accessible for sealing from the inside of the trailer.. I pulled mine completely out after painting por15 on all parts of the frame. There was a small amount of por on the very edge of the plate.

I ended up getting an 90 degree angle of aluminum from the orange box store. It measured about 2" x 2" or so. I think it is about 1/16" thick. I cut it down to 1" wide on the top edge to be riveted to the belt line. I cut a release into the area by the curve on the bottom edge. My plan is to cut the original bumper plate to fit over the new flashing to keep water from channeling under the floor forever more. I'm not planning to rivet the new part to the frame directly. The plan is to rivet the overlying bumper plate to the frame and then rivet the plate to the flashing. I'm concerned that riveting the flashing to the frame might cause some shearing forces to the shell.

I made some flashing to fill those gaps in the inside channels where water leaked on top of the floor by the storage compartment doors. I added 1/4 al plates that hold the new gutters in place. Sealed all/wet riveted w/trempro. I was really worried that the foam insulation would eventually end up on the floor of the belly pans, so I bought some 10" Al flashing and put bolts down thorough the floor to hold it against the underside of the floor. I tried to attach photos of the new bumper plate. Not as pretty as Perry's but hopefully it will work.

Cristina
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Old 06-07-2013, 10:58 AM   #277
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Christina,
I think that you're doing some amazing things to restore and improve your trailer...sorry that I haven't commented before now. You'll be ready to camp soon!

Steve
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:58 PM   #278
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Itís been several months since Iíve really posted about my progress in this thread, so pretend that this post is following post 259. Although itís been in the mid-nineties today (June 11), back in late February, we had snow (over 14Ē in one two day period as I recall, which is a lot for Wichita).



The snow brought some much needed moisture as weíve been in a drought for over two years. However, even though Ralph and I had replace the floor, there were still some leaks at seams and fixtures attached to the exterior of the trailer so the pristine plywood took on some water stains was an irritation , but hey thatís life!





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Old 06-11-2013, 09:59 PM   #279
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Life moved on and the water dried up leaving only the stain, so we marked the cross member and out rigger centerlines and installed new screws. Iím using my laptop out in the trailer to display helpful pictures like I did in my Suburban Furnace Rebuild thread. In this case, Iím encouraging myself about the remaining water leaks by looking at the progress that weíve made using a laptop picture.

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Old 06-11-2013, 10:00 PM   #280
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The only area of the frame that I didnít clean up and treat with POR15 was the right front (curb side front). Actually, the decision to replace that OSB was a last minute decision and wasnít in my original plan. Well, my conscience got the best of me and I decided to rebuild the steps and treat this area with POR15. I didnít remove the new insulation on this side, but in retrospect, I now wish that Iíd temporarily removed the insulation so that I could paint all of the way up to the plywood.

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