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wahoonc · 12-19-2011, 04:19 AM

Guys,
I just checked and I am not getting virus warnings. The photos are linked from Webshots, which is a reputable hosting site.

I have checked on two different computers running either FF or Chrome browsers with Avast, AVG and McAfee on them.

What browser are you using and which program is giving you the warning?

Aaron

Chillpoints · 12-19-2011, 08:12 AM

Steve
Thanks for posting your photos and the detail of your fix. I also am a fan of HiHoAg and his work. I am continually impressed with his attention to detail. I am working on replacing a very similar rot pattern in my '92 Excella 29'. I have all the rotten floor out and am in the process of cutting all the new flooring to fit. I am unfortunately having to replace two outriggers on the curb side and then will apply the Por-15 to all the frame. I am planning on coating the underside of the floor with epoxy for added protection down the road. I will look forward to watching the process as you continue.

perryg114 · 12-19-2011, 08:17 AM

I am running XP pro with Internet Explorer 8. In my home and work machine I get a redirect to a fake antivirus program and I have to kill the program in task manager to get out of it. The hosting sight has a problem at least with internet explorer.

Perry

Quote:

Originally Posted by wahoonc

Guys,
I just checked and I am not getting virus warnings. The photos are linked from Webshots, which is a reputable hosting site.

I have checked on two different computers running either FF or Chrome browsers with Avast, AVG and McAfee on them.

What browser are you using and which program is giving you the warning?

Aaron

perryg114 · 12-19-2011, 08:34 AM

I have thought about coating the underside of the existing floor but I worry about water getting in and not being able to get back out. This does not apply to new floor that hopefully is sealed around all edges and any holes etc. I would not put anything under the floor that won't allow it to dry out and breath. The pink stuff is a nightmare amplifying any damage caused by water.

I am not a fan of the sliver bubble wrap radiation barrier having all edges taped or sealed. The same goes for the ridged foam stuff. This creates a bath tub for the sub-floor to soak in. I have not insulated my new floor in the rear of my 31ft Excella II for these reasons. I am thinking of ridged foam with an air gap and egdes that are not 100% air tight.

Perry

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chillpoints

Steve
Thanks for posting your photos and the detail of your fix. I also am a fan of HiHoAg and his work. I am continually impressed with his attention to detail. I am working on replacing a very similar rot pattern in my '92 Excella 29'. I have all the rotten floor out and am in the process of cutting all the new flooring to fit. I am unfortunately having to replace two outriggers on the curb side and then will apply the Por-15 to all the frame. I am planning on coating the underside of the floor with epoxy for added protection down the road. I will look forward to watching the process as you continue.

**Janet H** · 12-19-2011, 08:54 AM

i think the problem is an ad running on the hosting site. It's not exactly a virus but can hijack your browser. The solution is to load the images directly to this thread or to set up a gallery here at air (unlimited storage) and them link to the images in the gallery.

Chillpoints · 12-19-2011, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by perryg114

I have thought about coating the underside of the existing floor but I worry about water getting in and not being able to get back out. This does not apply to new floor that hopefully is sealed around all edges and any holes etc. I would not put anything under the floor that won't allow it to dry out and breath. The pink stuff is a nightmare amplifying any damage caused by water.

I am not a fan of the sliver bubble wrap radiation barrier having all edges taped or sealed. The same goes for the ridged foam stuff. This creates a bath tub for the sub-floor to soak in. I have not insulated my new floor in the rear of my 31ft Excella II for these reasons. I am thinking of ridged foam with an air gap and egdes that are not 100% air tight.

Perry

I understand and agree completely. In my case the rot appeared to be caused by water entering the space below the floor where the pink stuff lay. The wood that was in the channel was actual harder than the floor 6 inches toward the center of the floor. This allowed it to stay there. With little air circulation between the floor and the belly wrap the water simply steams up to the floor and then stays there. I am coating the underside of the floor panels from the wall to about 6 in in. My hope is to keep the water from soaking in from the wall. I plan to paint the rest of the underside with some mold resistant paint should I get water under there. I have been trying to brain storm a way to install a heater type hose that I could force dry air into especially when parked for the rainy season here in WNC. I too am having questions about how best to insulate the underside of the floor and maintain some air flow at the same time. I think the key will be to keep all the water from coming into the space in the first place.

perryg114 · 12-19-2011, 12:17 PM

Some folks have put in something like gable vents in the belly skin so it can breath. The plate on the bottom of the bumper area does a wonderful job of funneling water under the floor. The top plate on the bumper does a wonderful job of soaking the subfloor.

That damage does not look that bad. Some new wood and POR15 and you should be good.

Perry

Steve Bryant · 12-19-2011, 01:35 PM

Note to all:
I'm sorry that this pesky issue on the fake virus program has cropped up. I will change my hosting site for pictures or find some other means of linking to the pictures. I had started to place some of the pictures here (Member's Photos - Photo Gallery) a couple of weeks ago, but then I couldn't figure how to link the Air Forums gallery pictures to this thread.

Again, I'm very sorry for the inconvenience. BTW, I'm running Internet Explorer 9 on Windows 7 and I automatically do all the updates plus anything on my computers (in or out) runs through Norton 360.

All my best,

Steve

perryg114 · 12-19-2011, 01:45 PM

I have often wondered how to renew/change photo links on old threads. A moderator would have to be involved to go in and change the links. If you don't have a web sight to host on, pbase.com is a good place but it is not free. There are no adds or popups or any kind of advertising. 1G is like $23 for a year. It is easy to manage and you can just send links to relatives. I use to use them a lot before I started putting stuff on my web page account. You can go there and look at photos others have posted. A lot of digital photo buffs use the sight to host photos.

Perry

Steve Bryant · 12-19-2011, 03:18 PM

Perry,
Thanks, I'm working with Aage on this now. Once I relocate the pictures, he will help me edit the posts after the fact. My only concern about a fee-based picture hosting site (other than the annual fee which I'd rather contribute to the upkeep of AirForums, in this case) is that in some ways, I'm trying to do this for posterity. Let's say that someday, I'm dead and gone (which is inevitable) or eight years from now I don't want to pay the fee; then the linked pictures evaporate and someone who may want to look at this thread to fix their AS can't see the pictures.

Anyway, I'm going to get this straightened out with Aage's help.

Thanks,

Steve

perryg114 · 12-19-2011, 05:48 PM

Ok sounds good if you can host them here maybe they won't disappear.

Perry

Steve Bryant · 12-20-2011, 11:30 AM

OK, this is a test. I have an account at PhotoBucket too and I would like for you good folks to test this picture and see if it causes any trouble in the way of a fake virus program or anything like that.

Then, please let me know your results. If the results are good, I'll work with Aage to get the previous post links fixed.

Steve

perryg114 · 12-20-2011, 12:12 PM

It looks good to me Steve. It is big enough that you don't have click on it but I did and no virus programs.

Perry

Disneysue925 · 12-20-2011, 12:30 PM

Looks fine to me. (Actually, that floor looks TERRIBLE!) No problems viewing it and the size is perfect!

Sue

Aage · 12-20-2011, 12:45 PM

Shows up as clear as a bell, Steve. I can say that images posted with photobucket.com have not caused any issues on Airfurums.com that I am aware of, and I have used it myself since I began here...

perryg114 · 12-20-2011, 12:54 PM

Ya think that leak was mainly caused by plumbing leaks?

Perry

Steve Bryant · 12-20-2011, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by perryg114

Ya think that leak was mainly caused by plumbing leaks?

Perry

No, I don't know of any plumbing leaks. I think that the leaks eminated from the junction of the the exterior walls and the bumper sill/banana wrap area that was probably poorly sealed from the factory. I'll know more once I pull the lower interior skins and the exterior parts just mentioned.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 12-20-2011, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve Bryant

OK, this is a test. I have an account at PhotoBucket too and I would like for you good folks to test this picture and see if it causes any trouble in the way of a fake virus program or anything like that.

Then, please let me know your results. If the results are good, I'll work with Aage to get the previous post links fixed.

Steve

Hi, Steve; The new pictures are great and they don't need to be clicked-on to enlarge. Now we can all see what work has be cut-out for you. I will be following your progress. Thank You Steve.

HiHoAgRV · 12-21-2011, 06:45 AM

The photos look great, um, I mean they look horrible but show up great...nevermind...

One point I never made in my thread...don't get all cranked about trying to make the floor splices on top of a frame/cross member. Contrary to the prevailing assumptions the floor can be flatter and stronger if the splice is made between the rails/members AND has a good strong, glued backing plate (flash backs to Engineering Strengths of Materials class

)

A splice on a narrow rail will tend to allow the two pieces of wood to slope upward at the splice and peak.

All of my splices that are on top of a rail show up, not bad but they are there. The doubler splices are flat as a pancake.

Steve Bryant · 12-21-2011, 05:18 PM

Aage,
Thank you sir for reposting all of the new PhotoBucket links!!!

All,
I'll continue to work on my trailer and keep you apprised of the progress in the coming days as the weather permits. After I work on the furnace, I'll be tearing out the floor and belly insulation and then I'll do the two prep stages for POR-15 and paint two coats of POR-15 on the frame. Once the paint cures, I can start working on the plywood part.

I'd like recommendations and links to threads related to:

Should I just use a steel wire brush or use my hand grinder with a wire wheel prior to the chemical prep?
What are the best practices for prepping and applying POR-15?
- Specifically should I pull the banana wraps in order to rinse the two prep products off (Marine Clean - degrease and Prep & Ready -etcher)? or
- Can I just rinse with the belly Pan and banana wraps installed and wipe up the excess with towels?
What kind of epoxy finish do you folks recommend for coating the plywood (I plan to coat both sides and the edges with two coats)?
What are the current thoughts on replacing the pink fiberglass insulation (forget about insulation, use fiberglass again, use some other type of insulation)?