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Old 12-14-2011, 12:02 AM   #15
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Thanks HiHo for your encouraging remarks and your nicely documented thread on this same issue!

It drizzled all day (Tuesday) so I didn't get to work on the roof any more. I'm going to try again Thursday. Tomorrow (Wednesday), we're supposed to have even more rain, so I'll probably work on peeling the rear bedroom interior skins so that I can observe the source of the water flow, tributaries, confluences ... that sort of thing.

Steve
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Old 12-14-2011, 07:48 AM   #16
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...I can observe the source of the water flow, tributaries, confluences ... that sort of thing.

Steve
That was a very enlightning exercise for me also. I found a single pop rivet that held on a front segment bracket was POURING water through, everything else was a drop or so.

I still have one leak that appears during towing or facing into the wind. The street side sofa arm gets wet as water seeps from a joint of the inner skins. I just have not been able to track that one down.
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Old 12-15-2011, 10:46 PM   #17
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Here are some photos of the actual sub-floor and the water damage:

Overall Photo of Rear Bedroom



Detail of Rear Section - I took this shot to detail the color coding of the wires for the re-splicing later. I've taken a bunch of shots of details like this to ease the reassembly later.



Detail of left/street side wall



Detail of Bathroom sub-floor - Does anyone have suggestions on removal of the rear partition and/or tub/shower floor. Also, where the water supply line penetrates the floor, behind the toilet; how's the best way to re-splice this line as I'll probably end up cutting it or replacing the vertical and the fittings.

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Old 12-18-2011, 05:57 PM   #18
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In the past few days, I've made some more progress on top of my trailer and in the bathroom area.

First the roof area. Ralph and I decided to remove the external doubler between the Kool-O-Matic's hood and the Airstream's top skin because there were numerous places for leaks and there was good evidence from below that the original skin cutout for a fourteen inch square cutout with radiused corners was still in tact. This turned out to be the right decision because there was dirt that had been carried in by water migration between the skin and doubler and leak paths that could not have been sealed properly. Here's the completed Fantastic Vent (Model 6000) installation. The kind folks sent me an off-white radiused interior "garnish" at no cost. I haven't installed this yet, as I will clean the interior skin after all repairs are complete and then install the AS garnish (note to self: return the standard garnish to kind folks at Fantastic Vent).



I've also installed the replacement dome that I ordered from the Out of Doors Mart on the front vent. I cleaned and re-caulked that flange too. The fan blades on both the bathroom vent and the forward vent were brittle and the slightest pressure on each of them caused them to break. I don't have any pictures of the forward lid because it got dark as I was finishing!
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:09 PM   #19
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I've also removed the aft wall of the bathroom, the vanity cabinet and a few other things to ease the access for properly replacing the floor in the bathroom.



This was a little time consuming, but actually easy to do. If you want to see more detail and description of the steps, take a few minutes and peruse my Webshots album beginning here:

http://s172.photobucket.com/albums/w...eam%20Limited/

Then, view the subsequent photos using the "Next" icon. A brief description is found below each photo. Also, if you click on the photo, you can go to a full size photograph and even magnify the details in most instances. At some future point, I envision doing some future threads that relate to the task of removing the bathroom wall, etc. but for now, I'm focusing on leaks and rot repair.
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Old 12-19-2011, 01:26 AM   #20
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Your photos have some viruses attached. I just tried to open one and got one of those fake virus check programs. The leak is caused by that plate at the back of the bumper that leaks and does a great job of funneling water under the sub floor. My 81 had the same issues. The plate won't go back. I had to replace the last 4 ft of floor.

Perry
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Perry,
I don't know about the virus issue. I run Norton 360 on anything that passes through my computer and my definitions are automatically kept up to date. I'm glad that you didn't fall for the fake virus check program.

Thanks for your input. After you replaced your subfloring, what did you do to address the leak on top of the bumper sheet metal?
Hi, I just clicked on one of your pictures and got this virus thing too; This needs to be fixed! I had to turn my computer off manually to stop it.
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Old 12-19-2011, 05:19 AM   #21
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Guys,
I just checked and I am not getting virus warnings. The photos are linked from Webshots, which is a reputable hosting site.

I have checked on two different computers running either FF or Chrome browsers with Avast, AVG and McAfee on them.

What browser are you using and which program is giving you the warning?

Aaron
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:12 AM   #22
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Steve
Thanks for posting your photos and the detail of your fix. I also am a fan of HiHoAg and his work. I am continually impressed with his attention to detail. I am working on replacing a very similar rot pattern in my '92 Excella 29'. I have all the rotten floor out and am in the process of cutting all the new flooring to fit. I am unfortunately having to replace two outriggers on the curb side and then will apply the Por-15 to all the frame. I am planning on coating the underside of the floor with epoxy for added protection down the road. I will look forward to watching the process as you continue.
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:17 AM   #23
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I am running XP pro with Internet Explorer 8. In my home and work machine I get a redirect to a fake antivirus program and I have to kill the program in task manager to get out of it. The hosting sight has a problem at least with internet explorer.

Perry

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Guys,
I just checked and I am not getting virus warnings. The photos are linked from Webshots, which is a reputable hosting site.

I have checked on two different computers running either FF or Chrome browsers with Avast, AVG and McAfee on them.

What browser are you using and which program is giving you the warning?

Aaron
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:34 AM   #24
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I have thought about coating the underside of the existing floor but I worry about water getting in and not being able to get back out. This does not apply to new floor that hopefully is sealed around all edges and any holes etc. I would not put anything under the floor that won't allow it to dry out and breath. The pink stuff is a nightmare amplifying any damage caused by water.

I am not a fan of the sliver bubble wrap radiation barrier having all edges taped or sealed. The same goes for the ridged foam stuff. This creates a bath tub for the sub-floor to soak in. I have not insulated my new floor in the rear of my 31ft Excella II for these reasons. I am thinking of ridged foam with an air gap and egdes that are not 100% air tight.

Perry

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Steve
Thanks for posting your photos and the detail of your fix. I also am a fan of HiHoAg and his work. I am continually impressed with his attention to detail. I am working on replacing a very similar rot pattern in my '92 Excella 29'. I have all the rotten floor out and am in the process of cutting all the new flooring to fit. I am unfortunately having to replace two outriggers on the curb side and then will apply the Por-15 to all the frame. I am planning on coating the underside of the floor with epoxy for added protection down the road. I will look forward to watching the process as you continue.
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:54 AM   #25
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i think the problem is an ad running on the hosting site. It's not exactly a virus but can hijack your browser. The solution is to load the images directly to this thread or to set up a gallery here at air (unlimited storage) and them link to the images in the gallery.
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Old 12-19-2011, 10:13 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
I have thought about coating the underside of the existing floor but I worry about water getting in and not being able to get back out. This does not apply to new floor that hopefully is sealed around all edges and any holes etc. I would not put anything under the floor that won't allow it to dry out and breath. The pink stuff is a nightmare amplifying any damage caused by water.

I am not a fan of the sliver bubble wrap radiation barrier having all edges taped or sealed. The same goes for the ridged foam stuff. This creates a bath tub for the sub-floor to soak in. I have not insulated my new floor in the rear of my 31ft Excella II for these reasons. I am thinking of ridged foam with an air gap and egdes that are not 100% air tight.

Perry
I understand and agree completely. In my case the rot appeared to be caused by water entering the space below the floor where the pink stuff lay. The wood that was in the channel was actual harder than the floor 6 inches toward the center of the floor. This allowed it to stay there. With little air circulation between the floor and the belly wrap the water simply steams up to the floor and then stays there. I am coating the underside of the floor panels from the wall to about 6 in in. My hope is to keep the water from soaking in from the wall. I plan to paint the rest of the underside with some mold resistant paint should I get water under there. I have been trying to brain storm a way to install a heater type hose that I could force dry air into especially when parked for the rainy season here in WNC. I too am having questions about how best to insulate the underside of the floor and maintain some air flow at the same time. I think the key will be to keep all the water from coming into the space in the first place.
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Old 12-19-2011, 01:17 PM   #27
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Some folks have put in something like gable vents in the belly skin so it can breath. The plate on the bottom of the bumper area does a wonderful job of funneling water under the floor. The top plate on the bumper does a wonderful job of soaking the subfloor.

That damage does not look that bad. Some new wood and POR15 and you should be good.

Perry
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Old 12-19-2011, 02:35 PM   #28
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Note to all:
I'm sorry that this pesky issue on the fake virus program has cropped up. I will change my hosting site for pictures or find some other means of linking to the pictures. I had started to place some of the pictures here (Member's Photos - Photo Gallery) a couple of weeks ago, but then I couldn't figure how to link the Air Forums gallery pictures to this thread.

Again, I'm very sorry for the inconvenience. BTW, I'm running Internet Explorer 9 on Windows 7 and I automatically do all the updates plus anything on my computers (in or out) runs through Norton 360.

All my best,

Steve
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