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Old 12-08-2012, 10:55 PM   #253
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In the past week and a half, Ralph and I have put in some long days on the trailer and Ive put in some extra days and evenings myself. Its all bearing fruit and hopefully soon Ill have some other details taken care of and the furnace reinstalled and operating as the cold weather is setting in again.

We finished up the last bit of riveting (well, all that I can think of right now). These were blind rivets (rather than bucked rivets) that we installed behind the shower and refrigerator. I used the Q Style Blind Rivets from Hanson Rivet and Supply because they are supposed to be water tight and have very good shear strength compared to Olympic rivets (see http://www.hansonrivet.com/w28.htm). We drilled out the 1/8 rivets with a #20 bit and installed the QAAD502 or QAAD504 rivets shown on the hyperlinked chart. These rivets are not a shaved style rivet and the mandrel can be slightly below the surface of the fastener head or can protrude slightly proud (depending on material thickness and grip range of rivet). They all go under the beltline molding and wont show anyway. As with all our other rivets, we drilled the holes, used some 5/64 Clecos as place holders along the way, injected some TremPro 635 into and around the hole with a syringe and installed the rivets. Then if the mandrels were sticking out, I ground them down with a sandpaper disc on a die grinder and we put a small dollop of TremPro on the rivet head for additional water sealing.

Picture of the rivets (note rivet on lower right of Cleco)


Ralph installing one of the Rivets


Rivets in different conditions: some with short or long mandrels, some have their mandrels ground down, some have been sealed with TremPro.
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:56 PM   #254
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This post is a little off topic, but since this thread deals with leaks as well as floor and frame and is some of what weve done, I decided to include it. Some of you may recall that the lower left skin panel on my trailer had been damaged and was re-skinned with a second layer of 0.040 aluminum. In the area of the water tank, this left two layers of skin.

I decided to tie them together with Rivnuts that had internal threads for #8-32 screws. That would tie the skins together and allow the use of threaded fasteners rather than sheet metal screws. I also installed a shim plate using TremPro on the bottom because the bottom edge (on the outside of the C Channel of the shell extrusion) was a long ways from being flush with the plane of the rest of the skin where the water heater was installed.


Heres what it looks like on the inside (Styrofoam insulation removed to inspect water heater tank).
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:58 PM   #255
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Another thing that Ive dealt with is sealing all of the holes where someone had installed the lower left side second skin with Olympic rivets that plunged directly into the OSB. Once the Olympic rivets were drilled out and de-burred, I injected TremPro into the holes and widened and straightened the C Channel where necessary.

This picture shows all of the extra holes in the C Channel before sealing. Note: I used the biggest common nails that I could find in the hardware store to keep the shell on the outriggers for the past ten months or so.
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:00 PM   #256
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I want to go back to widening the C Channel and making sure that the plywood edge is a uniform thickness of just a little under 5/8. If you get this right and put a small upper and lower bevel on the top and bottom edge of the plywood, it will easily go into place with only a modest amount of persuasion (AKAuse of bigger rubber mallet).

Here are a couple of techniques that I used to widen the channel.




And the result


I used a small piece of C channel to check the plywood edge and a piece of planed plywood to check the C channel. If the plywood edge fits into the C channel gage all around and the planed plywood gage will slip into the C Channel extrusion on the bottom of the shell, the floor piece should slip right in with gentle persuasion.




Plywood thickness gage being used to test width of C channel.
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:06 PM   #257
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We reinstalled a portion of the bathroom floor (all that was left) and marked it up to make a better pattern for the new floor.


The C Channel was fairly beat up just aft of the left rear (roadside) wheel and we decided to install the bathroom plywood as three separate pieces to work around the damage while it was being repaired. I lowered the nose of the trailer nearly to the ground to get nearly all the weight off the outriggers aft of the wheel well, but it wasnt enough. Then I put a jack stand with a 2X6 on top just aft of the water heater opening and raised the tongue jack a bit so that we got a little clearance on the adjacent outrigger and enough clearance to straighten the crumpled bottom of the C Channel aft of the wheel well.


We also had to use a heat gun on the wheel well to reshape it back to its original shape and clamp some boards on top while it cooled (see previous photo). This frame and floor work is not for the faint of heart!


Heres a photo of the new outboard bathroom floor in place. The forward portion was replaced first and the jack stand with the 2X6 was then moved forward so that the weight could be relieved off of the rear outboard section for repair and replacement.


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Old 12-08-2012, 11:07 PM   #258
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Once the outboard portion of the bathroom was replaced, we turned our attention to the inboard section of the bathroom floor. Using the old flooring that wed temporarily installed to verify hole centers, we cut the plywood out and did a test fit and some tweaking. Then we assembled the first section of the conversion to PEX plumbing (also a part of this project while the trailer is this gutted) before the floor covered up the black water tank. Heres the new PEX hose and fittings for the black water tank with the old sitting on top.


Then we cut and installed half-inch sheets (R 3.3) of Super Tuff-R insulation over the grey and black water tanks. Note the factory hole for the black water clean out tank was too big, so we took the plug that we had cut out and modified it with a pocket knife and taped it in top and bottom.


Then we installed the inboard floor, the toilet flange and even place the throne temporarily on the flange to check out how the flange was clocked before I add screws in the next couple of weeks.


Observation, this project is really getting exciting now!!!
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:08 PM   #259
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Once the rear bedroom plywood was cut to shape, planed and sanded, I installed the outboard sections in the rear. With the front edges in approximate position, the rear radiused section can be started outboard and the front and back can be alternately tapped outboard to seat the plywood.


Then, I clamped 2X boards onto the cross members to maintain the plywoods position while I took the five pound rubber mallet outside to gently persuade the C Channel the rest of the way home onto the plywood.


Note: before I seated the plywood into the C Channel into position, I had put some pieces of masking tape on the frame and marked reference marks onto the tape for the outrigger positions. Then I made green marks on the edge of the U Channel for the outrigger centerlines and red marks on the U Channel for the cross members and put my color coding on a piece of masking tape (to be removed later). If all of this stuff seems anal and overly-analytical, remember that Im a retired engineer! When the outboard sections of plywood were installed, I transferred the green outrigger locations to the plywood and removed the tape. This tells me where to put an outrigger screw when I wont be able to see where to drill later on. BTW, I tried my electronic stud finder on the floor and it didnt work very well (showed the 2 inch wide steel structure to be about 4 wide)

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Then I installed one inch Super Tuff-R (R 6.5) from below. The insulation was held in place by being a slight interference fit and it also has one inch aluminum angle on the forward and aft sides of the cross members.


Once the insulation was in place I installed the center sections of Plywood in the rear. Praise be to Godits starting to become a trailer again instead of a project that turned very ugly about a year ago!


I ordered some more wafer head screws from Fastenal because Ive run outtheyll be in Monday morning. I need to get the water heater (or a filler panel) installed and the left rear tail/turn signal housing installed so that most of the incoming air will be kept out. Ill stuff rags in the smaller openings. Then Ill add bolts to my rear separation area and screw down the floor. After that, Ill work on the furnace so Ill have some warm air inside.

Saga to be continued....
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:30 PM   #260
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Good Job Steve. What was the reason of the Hansen rivets that are about half way up the wall under the upper belt line?

Perry
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Old 12-09-2012, 06:10 PM   #261
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Thanks Perry. A significant (but not the only) reason for the magnitude of my leak damage was that the entire lower left side panel (about 28 feet in length) had been replaced by some former owner with very shoddy workmanship. There is double skin on the left lower side and they had used pop rivets only under the belt line molding. The holes in the pop rivets allowed water to seep through at a fairly steady rate when it did rain. We pulled the lower inner skin on the entire left side everywhere except behind the shower and refrigerator and used 5/32" bucked rivets installed "wet" with TremPro. We used the blind "Q" style rivets behind the shower and refrigerator to save pulling out all of that stuff to buck those rivets. See pictures below.

Pop Rivets as seen from exterior side (under Belt Line Molding)


Pop Rivets Leaking during rain (interior).


Aft edge of lower left side panel. The forward and aft edges were cut off with tin snips, a rubber barrier (black material) was inserted between the sheets and the new skin was put on top of the old.
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Old 12-09-2012, 06:27 PM   #262
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Got ya Steve. I knew there was a good reason.

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Old 12-19-2012, 11:25 PM   #263
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Great job Steve! I wish I was your neighbor.. we could have some serious trailer fun. BTW... how are your neighbors with all this driveway repair lol ?

Thanks for the detailed pictures and documentation. A great asset to the forums.

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Old 12-20-2012, 12:23 PM   #264
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Vinnie,
Thanks for your kind compliment! My neighbors seem to tolerate/accept my long-term project in the driveway. I've tried to reassure everyone that this won't last forever and that it's already taken much longer than I expected. I've even emailed the link to this thread to most of my close neighbors so that they can track the progress of the project on line if they want to. Also, my two next-door neighbors have gotten two or three progress/goodwill tours of the trailer.

Luckily, I live in a neighborhood that is well maintained but the average house age is 70 plus years (mine was built in 1922). Most folks have done extensive long-term remodeling themselves on their houses so this helps moderate public opinion. Many newer subdivisions in Wichita have strictly-enforced covenants that would prohibit such a project. I wouldn't live in one of those neighborhoods as I'm a big time DIY person.

Steve
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Old 12-23-2012, 02:05 AM   #265
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I've enjoyed re-reading this thread all over again. I'm a few days from purchasing a 1990 35' Silver Streak that has had some plumbing-related water damage and I anticipate some repairs . . and while I hope not to the extent of this thread, I'm going back through for the links, tools, photos and advice (where it will relate) as morale booster. Any work would be a ways off, but research needs to start.

First step is camera & tripod.

Very glad to see that the Limited is coming together!

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Old 12-23-2012, 09:29 AM   #266
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Me too

Not sure I should use the word "enjoyed" while following this thread, it hurts to think about what all Steve has been through. No doubt a labor of love. As a 34 owner myself, don't think I could handle it. But I am grateful for all the hard work and especially the documentation.

Hope it wraps up soon so the real fun can begin.

John
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