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Old 07-22-2012, 11:03 PM   #169
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Hi, I like your extra mounting brackets on the corners; Did you put something in between the steel and aluminum? [rubber, wood, plastic, Etc.]
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Old 07-23-2012, 08:24 AM   #170
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Steve you might consider putting in some drains in the C-channel. I did this on the front of mine. I also caulked at the bottom of some of the vertical stringers so it would be like compartments in a ship. Each compartment has its own drain. I also caulked up the gap between the straight and curved C-channels. I ended up putting a drain in the middle of each compartment but what I should have done is put one right next to the vertical stringer at the ends of each compartment. This would keep water from pooling in the corners if the trailer was not perfectly level and they never are perfectly level. Having compartments also makes it easier to isolate a leak. You know it is at least close to that compartment instead of 10 ft away.

Perry
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Old 07-23-2012, 06:44 PM   #171
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Originally Posted by Aage View Post
Great work, Steve, and I love the photography!
Thanks Aage! I appreciate your help so much when I first started this thread in trying to get the pictures posted correctly and your suggestion to use PhotoBucket. I'd had an account with PhotoBucket for several years but never used it very much for several years.

I've been an avid amateur photographer since I was about eleven. Now I'm 63 and I still like the hobby. From 1979 until about 1986, I worked as an instructor in the technical training department at my former employer Beech Aircraft. We had to develop or help with the development of slides and illustrations for use in the classroom. That's when I saw what a powerful tool that good photographs could be in demonstrating how things operate, are built, etc.
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Old 07-23-2012, 06:49 PM   #172
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Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, I like your extra mounting brackets on the corners; Did you put something in between the steel and aluminum? [rubber, wood, plastic, Etc.]

Robert,
No, there won't be anything between the steel and the alumium except for the POR-15 paint (maybe that counts). I don't want a buffer or cushion there. Rather, I want the connection between frame and shell to be solid, spread out over a broad area with a number of fasteners/bolts. Also, the aluminum U chanel on top needs a load distributing plate for each fastener. The factory uses steel and I'll use 1/4" aluminum plate. I plan to use stainless steel hardward with nylon locking nuts.

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Old 07-23-2012, 07:08 PM   #173
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Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
Steve you might consider putting in some drains in the C-channel. I did this on the front of mine. I also caulked at the bottom of some of the vertical stringers so it would be like compartments in a ship. Each compartment has its own drain. I also caulked up the gap between the straight and curved C-channels. I ended up putting a drain in the middle of each compartment but what I should have done is put one right next to the vertical stringer at the ends of each compartment. This would keep water from pooling in the corners if the trailer was not perfectly level and they never are perfectly level. Having compartments also makes it easier to isolate a leak. You know it is at least close to that compartment instead of 10 ft away.

Perry
Perry,
I am going to connect the front and rear end cap sections to the side wall U Channels with some "gutter bridges" that I'll make (similar to what you showed me a few months ago). Also, I'm going to add some dams and do a significant amount of sealing (TremPro 635) of the U channel for flood control. Then I'm going to drill a number of weep holes in the outboard bottom edge of the U Channel. The trailer already has some weep holes there and I will add more. I discussed this idea with Airstream customer support about five months ago and they told me that the holes were not mistakes but were intended to be weep holes. Too bad that the perimeter ditch has so many breaches in it.

You can see the outside view of the two left front corner weep holes here. They are intended to drain out beneath the trim piece that covers the belly wrap. These holes appear in a number of places on my trailer. I will make sure that they are unobstructed and that I add more.


If you look carefully, you can see the same drain holes from the inside. One is covered partially by the large red wire and the other can be seen below the bailing twine wire restraint.
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Old 07-23-2012, 08:07 PM   #174
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The holes don't appear to go through to the C-channel. I lined the holes with 3/8" stainless steel tubing to get them below the floor.

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Old 07-23-2012, 08:40 PM   #175
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Perry,
You're right, the holes are drilled on about a 30 degree angle from the horizontal an do not go into the C channel section, just through the U channel portion of the bottom extrusion and the outer skin. I'll be doing the bridge you suggested here http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ml#post1095804, but not the drains as I think that about 30 weepholes will do the trick.
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Old 07-23-2012, 09:11 PM   #176
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These are weep holes you are going to add? How are you going to keep the weeped water from getting back into the sub floor?

Here are the actual drains. Kinda crude but they work.

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Ok here is what I have done so far with drains. It is not pretty but if it works who cares. I want to do this in months instead of years.

Here is one of the drains using the 3/8" SST thinwall tubing.



Here is the drain to the right of the door in the straight section.



Here is the drain in the front right corner.






Here is the drain on the right side of the door. This is put together with little bits of aluminum roof sheething cut to funnel water down the outside of the skin instead of in the area that use to be covered with wood. It is held together with Parbond and Vulkem.



This is a bridge between the straight C-channel and the curved C-channel made from the sheething and Vulkem.



I am going to put another drain between the two battery boxes and seal the section of c-channel with Vulkem where they cut and bent it to make room for the battery boxes. I am also going to isolate these sections from the corner areas. This is mainly to prevent water from getting up under the metal load plates that are already starting to rust. I am going to encapsulate them in Vulkem. I wanted to POR15 them but I don't want to waste a $50 can of paint just to paint the load plates.


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Old 07-25-2012, 06:02 PM   #177
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Perry,
Thanks for posting the extra pictures. I've studied them a couple of times now and I believe that we have very similar ideas as to some of the issues that need to be addressed. On my trailer, I not only need the four bridges between the straight sides and the curved corners, but there are a number of places where a couple of segments of the bottom shell extrusion are laid end to end with a small gap in the middle. I'll also caulk all of the holes where screws used to be.
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Old 08-02-2012, 02:49 PM   #178
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Ive now gotten the frame extensions/corner supports welded in to the front corners and I want to show what this looks like now. Steve, my welder, thought it would be better to cut these sections out of mild steel rather than 3/16 as I had originally planned. Im glad he did because that extra 1/16 added some beef without much weight.

Heres what the front looked like once I removed that front floor.


Heres what it looks like now with the corners braced up from the inside.
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Old 08-02-2012, 02:56 PM   #179
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Here's a detail of the corner reinforcement from above and below (front street side).


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Old 08-02-2012, 03:06 PM   #180
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This post shows some detail of the welded in corner support along with a boo-boo repair. You may remember this picture of the saw kerf when I was removing the floor from the front corners.


Well, there was more to the story of the saw kerf. The thickness of the wonderful OSB sub floor varies according to the amount of swelling that has occurred due to moisture. Regarding the OSB acronym, its important to get the letter order correct here as the opportunity for a Freudian slip is tremendous! Id set the depth-of-cut on the circular saw for the inner edge of the OSB where it was thicker than the same OSB in the vicinity of the frame rail. That carbide sure is sharp and will even cut (or nick in this case) mild steel pretty good in a second or two! SooI had a nick about 0.010 deep across part of the frame rail. I could have probably painted this with POR-15 and it wouldnt have failed in 50 years. But, I ground off the paint in the vicinity of the cut and had Steve weld a filler bead to replace the metal when he welded in the front corner supports.




I then ground the top of this weld flush where the bead would contact the floor.
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Old 08-02-2012, 03:09 PM   #181
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One issue that most everyone has to deal with is where the subfloor has rotted in the vicinity of the perimeter C Channel extrusion, the C Channel has been crushed/bent/deformed.




With most or all of the pressure removed from the bottom of the C Channel, it can be straightened to a large degree. I used various pry bars, a flat plate of 3/8 steel and a large ball peen hammer and some other techniques that I cant remember now to spread out and flatten the C Channel to better accept the plywood floor.




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Old 08-02-2012, 03:11 PM   #182
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Ive also taken some time to write up a somewhat detailed to-do list to finish up this project. Heres the list which was done with a word processor so that I can edit it as I go along.
  • Finish sheet metal work
    • Riveting in rear
    • Design & install doublers & strengthen front as required
    • Install blind rivets near bathroom
    • Install extrusions on left rear storage compartments (cord & general)
    • Remove and seal remaining Olympic and Pop rivets
    • Check for and replace missing rivets
  • Paint frame & install floor in front
  • Shift support of rear frame to allow gap between shell & frame
  • Paint rear frame
  • Install floor in rear
    • Install PEX plumbing that penetrates floor
    • Route and connect wiring where necessary (replace grommets)
  • Repair floor rot at entry door threshold
  • Caulk all exterior fittings and attachments
  • Make and install 4 gutter bridges for lower U channel and caulk all voids/cracks, etc. in U Channel
  • Drill additional weep holes in U channel as required
  • Test for leaks from exterior and repair as necessary (use hose & pressure washer and maybe it will rain someday) reseal as required
  • Install insulation
  • Install belly skin, belly wrap, aft leveler jacks (op check) and rear casters
  • Install rear bumper and sewer hose storage compartment lid, etc. Caulk as required
  • Install interior skins
  • Complete PEX pluming installation
  • Install laminate flooring
  • Install interior electrical components (batteries, new converter, solar charger regulator)
  • Clean walls & ceiling
  • Clean and refinish furniture & upholstery
  • Install furniture (replace rubber bumpers on doors, etc. as required)
  • Make electrical and plumbing checks and rectify as required.
  • Repack wheel bearings, replace seals, check, lubricate & adjust brakes
  • Replace brake break away switch & verify exterior lighting
  • Make several short test drives and correct squawks
  • Replace wheels & tires (tires are too old and I've decided to move to 16" wheels and LT tires)
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