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Old 07-09-2004, 07:39 AM   #1
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1959 26' Overlander
Putnam , Connecticut
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Layers and layers

What's the record for layers of floor. I am down to the original tile and in some places the original floor. On this was a layer of leveling cement product, a layer of glue for the layer of foam padding. Then we had another layer of particle board which was painted.
Forward there was another layer of a thick carpet padding and a carpet. While in the kitchen another layer of 3/4 ply with vinyl.
So far one 6 x 8 inche hole under the window next to the door and one spot that makes dry cracking sounds when steped on inside the curbside wheelwell. Even the area are the door sill is fine.
Still have the water tank and water heater to remove.
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Old 07-09-2004, 11:35 AM   #2
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Pictures, you should provide pictures

Sounds like a lot of work. I assume this is on the 59? I'm surprised you weren't exceeding axel capacity dragging all that around!
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Old 10-12-2004, 06:03 PM   #3
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Putnam , Connecticut
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Grinder

So it has come down to either burning and scraping off the old tile where the floor is good ( it does catch fire now and then smells bad and doesn't work well ...ie slow), replace good floor in the front half of the trailer (not even much rust on the channel bolts), or grinder.
I have been discovering the wonderful world of grinders, takes the heads off rivets, cut bolts, smooths welds, removes rust, ect. Now it looks like tile removal is next. I may try a floor corner sander first, one with a dust bag. Then CPES well soaked in under the channel and covering the whole piece of old floor and a patch.
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Old 10-12-2004, 09:45 PM   #4
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I've restored 2 houses, 2 sailboats, and a motorcycle in my time, did a lot...learned a lot. Many late nights & weekends, but the finished 'high quality' product & the satisfaction I did it was it's own reward. At this time, however I'll have to deal with new...never quite the way 'you would have done it'!

Best of luck with your A/S restore, if you are like most, you'll find about 10 things to tidy-up along with the current project you're working on. Keep the end in sight!!!!!
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Old 10-12-2004, 09:46 PM   #5
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Whatever you decide to do with the tile, a respirator is a must. They contain asbestos and the airborne particles are not to be breathed in. Use caution.

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Old 10-13-2004, 07:21 AM   #6
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I was considering holding my breath, running outside to get another, run back in to grind ect.. . Like free diving. Alast the job would go better with he right gear. I think the rental place has outfits. Thanks for your concern.
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Old 10-24-2004, 04:52 PM   #7
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So the floor is mostly out. I left a strip around the edges to support the shell as I work my way from front to back. I want to repair and closeup the belly pan, insulate, then put in new floor. Of course this means something other than elevator bolts, which I find a rather primitive system. Any ideas out there. I am considering the following ideas (some with little thought). Drill and tap the support members to screw the floor down, drill pilot and use a steal self tapping screw similar to the dry wall type, epoxy with one of the above, wood strips ( 1x3 epoxy coated) attached to the frame and srcewing the floor into the wood with or without epoxy in screw holes and / or over the frame and strips.
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Old 10-27-2004, 12:17 PM   #8
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1959 26' Overlander
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I have found self threading screws, 1/4 20. These would seem to work for the floor. http://www.textronfasteningsystems.c...ptitedata.html
Problems is where to get them. I could seal up the belly, insulate, them put the floor in. Thus not having to struggle with taking the belly pan off then putting it back on.
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