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06-15-2011, 08:43 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1968 26' Overlander
West Richland
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 61
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Jim starts the ball rolling
The forums is a wonderful place. I may not know much but what I do know about Airstreams comes from the ideas and discussions from the forums I thought about owning an Airstream for a long time and know they are a lot of work but I think I have the time and energy to do this trailer justice. In fact here is my start safely on the ground. Any suggestions to the beginner?
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06-15-2011, 09:09 PM
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#2
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Moderator
2015 25' FB Flying Cloud
2012 23' FB Flying Cloud
2005 25' Safari
Santa Rosa Beach
, Florida
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 13,153
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All I can say is WOW, I'm impressed!
Brian
__________________
SuEllyn & Brian McCabe
WBCCI #3628 -- AIR #14872 -- TAC #FL-7
2015 FC 25' FB (Lucy) with ProPride
2020 Silverado 2500 (Vivian)
2023 Rivian R1T (Opal)
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06-15-2011, 09:13 PM
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#3
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4 Rivet Member
2002 22' International CCD
San Luis Obispo
, California
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 418
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Looks like a pretty good start to me. That's a whole lot more than getting the ball started!
__________________
Wayne
2002 22' CCD
2008 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7L Hemi
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06-15-2011, 09:13 PM
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#4
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4 Rivet Member
1963 16' Bambi
Stevens Point
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 318
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Hey Jimand pj,
Replace the axles before you put the shell back on. I was suffering from axle replacement denial. I replaced the shell then ordered and replced the axle. Thats doing it the hard way, but thats how some of us learn.
Tim
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06-16-2011, 10:46 AM
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#5
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retired USA/USAF
2001 30' Excella
Somerset
, New Jersey
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,418
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Nice to have space to work in. Good luck with it.
__________________
Roger in NJ
" Democracy is the worst form of government. Except for all the rest"
Winston Churchill 1948
TAC - NJ 18
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06-16-2011, 09:54 PM
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#6
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2 Rivet Member
1968 26' Overlander
West Richland
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 61
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Thanks guys. New deck, tanks, axles and paint are all in the near future.
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06-16-2011, 09:58 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2005 25' Safari
Salem
, Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 8,367
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Hi, great job; Keep us updated. I like to watch these in progress since I can't even open the door on my trailer. [while parked in my driveway]
__________________
Bob 2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent" Small Silver Castle
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
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06-16-2011, 11:19 PM
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#8
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4 Rivet Member
1985 31' Excella
Fresno
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 307
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Great progress, will be looking forward to your progress.
It has come to a halt here in the Houston area because of the temperature reaching near 100 and they are forecasting 105 heat index tomorrow.
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06-17-2011, 03:58 PM
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#9
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Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
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Welcome! Looks like you're off to a great start. Make sure to keep the sub floor, belly pan and belly skin intact for template. I used a hole saw to cut out the elevator bolts from the top. It makes the subfloor come up easier (no crawleing around under the frame). I would have the frame sandblasted. Hand prepping the frame is a time consuming job. Save your self the head ache trust me. And take lots of pics!
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06-19-2011, 07:40 PM
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#10
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2 Rivet Member
1968 26' Overlander
West Richland
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 61
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It was a dirty job
A good weekend but it was nasty. Got the deck removed and most of the foam insulation removed from the frame
The local experts tell me the foam is an aftermarket thing by a previous owner. It was a mess cleaning it all up. The first picture is where I drilled around all the anchor bolts. The foam held on to the plywood and it was tough to get up. Bigger hammer and pry bar worked.
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06-19-2011, 07:49 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1967 22' Safari
1960 Caravel
Edmonds
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMandPJ
A good weekend but it was nasty. Got the deck removed and most of the foam insulation removed from the frame Attachment 132860
Attachment 132861
Attachment 132862
The local experts tell me the foam is an aftermarket thing by a previous owner. It was a mess cleaning it all up. The first picture is where I drilled around all the anchor bolts. The foam held on to the plywood and it was tough to get up. Bigger hammer and pry bar worked.
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I had the foam on my 67 and don't think it is after market. It is a real PIA to get off though.
You and I are not the only ones that have found foam.
__________________
Lee
1973 F-250 4X4 390
1965 Chevy Suburban 454
AIR 6030
WBCCI 4258
TCT
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06-19-2011, 07:53 PM
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#12
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2 Rivet Member
1968 26' Overlander
West Richland
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 61
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Trailer not level
After I got all the gunk off the frame. I noticed the frame at the right rear seemed to droop. There is definitely a bow in the frame as it sits but I don't see kinks in the frame. In the picture its difficult to tell that the rear end sags more on the right rear that on the left but believe me, it does. I have heard that before bolting down the deck, that it should be dead level from one end to the other. Is that the only thing I need to worry about to correct this situation.
My deck was 3/4 ply and most areas of t was still sound.
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06-19-2011, 08:51 PM
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#13
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2 Rivet Member
1968 26' Overlander
West Richland
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 61
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You know I felt like I was removing original rivets when I took off the underbelly. I saw some patches that I know were repairs but most all rivets that came out sure looked like original and I thought the foam was original also. But some members have said they've never used foam.
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06-20-2011, 08:50 PM
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#14
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2 Rivet Member
1968 26' Overlander
West Richland
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 61
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Frame issues
A closer look at the frame and I found some dents in the lower portion of the C Channel just in front of the forward wheel and just after the rear wheel. I'm still thinking the frame sags too much but I can almost lift the rear bumper enough to flatten it out front to rear. I think these kinks are at the jacking points. Any advise out there??
The last shot is looking from the right rear bumper forward.
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06-21-2011, 08:14 AM
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#15
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Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMandPJ
A closer look at the frame and I found some dents in the lower portion of the C Channel just in front of the forward wheel and just after the rear wheel. I'm still thinking the frame sags too much but I can almost lift the rear bumper enough to flatten it out front to rear. I think these kinks are at the jacking points. Any advise out there??
The last shot is looking from the right rear bumper forward.
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Once you get the sub floor off the frame it will droop a bit. The trick is to make sure that the new sub floor is dead level when you bolt it down. The pictures are fulcrum points I believe. It happens when the frame bounces up and down. If the sub floor fails then the frame bounces more violently. My solution was to box those areas by welding C channel in those areas like this []. If you want pics I can snap a couple, just did it this weekend.
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06-21-2011, 05:05 PM
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#16
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2 Rivet Member
1968 26' Overlander
West Richland
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 61
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Not sure I understand what you've done. I currently have c-shaped channel (1 1/2 x 5 x 1 1/2) Are you suggesting boxing in the channel or adding another channel to it (3 x 5 x 3)? Photos would be good!
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06-21-2011, 11:41 PM
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#17
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Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMandPJ
Not sure I understand what you've done. I currently have c-shaped channel (1 1/2 x 5 x 1 1/2) Are you suggesting boxing in the channel or adding another channel to it (3 x 5 x 3)? Photos would be good!
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I had C channel fabricated to fit inside the original frame like this [ ] here are a couple pics. The black is Por15 I ran out of grey
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