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Old 10-17-2008, 01:14 PM   #1
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Jack Stand placement, '73 International

With all the advice from members of another thread (frame rot) I have come to the conclusion that this image shows the proper placement of Jack stands. Thank you
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Old 10-19-2008, 09:36 AM   #2
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looks good

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Originally Posted by floridartist View Post
With all the advice from members of another thread (frame rot) I have come to the conclusion that this image shows the proper placement of Jack stands. Thank you
Here is a link to a site that shows more info on it.

The way you have them should be fine. If the unit is going to be up in the air for very long and your going to have to be doing some pushing or pulling, I like to have it to where it won't slip.
Dan
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Old 10-19-2008, 11:06 AM   #3
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The only problem would be if you are planning to replace the axles, they would then be in the way. And, yes, from the angle of the trailing arms, it looks like it's going to need them at some point soon.
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Old 10-19-2008, 11:46 AM   #4
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Just one more possibility to swarm you with...

Jack stands give me the heebie-jeebies - just too tippy... Use them along with the jack to place cribbing after the wheels are off but before you crawl under the trailer. Then you'll need them again to get cribbing out and wheels back on before moving trailer...

I'll get grief over showing you this while using concrete block - but new block touched by only wood does not have the opportunity to cleave from a pressure point ie: piece of gravel, steel frame high spot focusing all the weight into teeny spot and fracturing the concrete so I'm not sweating it. (much)...

Re-railing cars back on railroad track across gravel ballast stone we used wood blocks stacked as cribbing. Get some 6x6 or 8x8 timbers and pyramid them to make it as stable as possible - I'd rather see 22-28" base stacked up to the wooden block that touches the steel instead of the 18x18 base in photo, also, in the photo the block touching the steel really should be cross-grain to the splitting force of the steel plate edge.

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Old 10-24-2008, 07:57 PM   #5
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Nice
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Old 10-24-2008, 08:02 PM   #6
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Soon, I will be doing some heaving, pushing and hoving, I am thinking of running a 26' long frame inside my frame to make my frame stong again, And I will need to add some system like you have, 4x6 blocks, stacked. thanks for keeping me informed, alss, what is that material you have under your plywood flooring, it looks really good, John
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Old 10-26-2008, 12:06 AM   #7
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Prodex Products ~ Prodex Total Insulation ~ Insulation Wrap ~ Bubble Wrap Insulation ~ Insulation4less.com

I went with the big roll from those folks - It is not bubble-wrap, it is a gnarly foil-foam-foil almost 1/4-inch thick that does help to block sound where foil-bubble-foil style does not. The original fiberglass is excellent at sound dampening and I didn't want to regret zero sound attenuation later on... ( oops maybe damp is wrong word, my fiberglass was nasty esp. from leaks)

I applied it using polyurethane caulk as sealant/glue and monel rust-proof staples onto Kilz primer coated flooring;

I added a two-layer shim standoff in the center and single layer 'ring' around the circumference of each fitted sheet to give an airspace and help force any live water to seek the lower center area and drain through a row of 1/8" holes punched through the outer layer.

I plan to sandwich the spars too just before the belly skin goes on.

I got a little ill when I searched my local Craigslist the other day - there is a nearly similar surplus foil wrap insulation going for about 30% what I paid.

Remember to use finesse & not brute strength and you'll do fine, don't be putting a killer Airstream on the market after it topples off/onto something or someone!
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Old 10-26-2008, 08:53 AM   #8
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I like what you did with the foil wrap, clean job, I think it might be a good time for me to seal up all my exposed plywood in a simular way, thanks for the advice, John
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Old 10-26-2008, 11:38 AM   #9
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The painting was self-defense I swear - I was on a mission to seal up & clean anything that could be holding odors. What didn't get painted got mildew-remover bleach soaked & rinsed.

I left a three-inch band of unpainted plywood top and bottom of the floor sheets where it meets the shell & C-channel; if/when there is a water seep and the edges are getting wet I want to be able to see it, and leave enough bare wood the moisture could evaporate instead of being trapped inside sealed plywood...
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