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Old 07-25-2006, 09:25 AM   #43
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HamiBambi, great to see that you have got to the bottom of the take things apart stage. I remember being there. Your frame looks close to mine. I noticed in your picture that there is a brace across the outriggers where the door is located. I had to add a piece to my frame in the same area. I suggest you keep that. Without it the floor, even when it is new plywood, will sag when you step on it. If you examine the belly pan on either side of door opening you probably don't have cracks. Mine had cracks that were about 2" because of the sag every time someone went in or out of the trailer. Does yours have cracks? Also I suggest that you use a long very straight board or straight edge of some kind as you rework your frame. Make sure that everything is flat and straight as you make repairs. I thought I had. But the outrigger that I repaired on the right side of the door opening was low. After the shell was put back on and the door replaced, I have a bigger gap to the right side of the door because the floor is lower in that area. Some on the forum have used a string stretched the full length of the frame to make sure it is flat. What ever method you use, I suggest you use the old method of checking and checking again. Also when you get to the point of painting the frame I suggest you read several threads and make your own decision about which paint to use. I used Eastwood rust encapuslator, many have used Por 15. Por 15 is thiner and makes a harder surface, so I understand. My suggestion is to get a sample of each product and make tests. Good progress, I will be interested in watching your restoration.
Don
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Old 07-25-2006, 08:59 PM   #44
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On to Frame Repairs!

Thanks Don, I'll be sure and keep an eye on the frame members and keeping them flat. I'm planning to farm out the sandblasting and the welding of the frame as I have no place to do the sandblasting and no experience with welding, although I think I remember that you rented a sandblaster and I was tempted to try it.

Chuck, do you know of a sandblaster and/or welder in the riverhead area that might be a good candidate. I found one in East Hampton, but my guess is that he'll be a lot more expensive than somebody in riverhead.

Finally, regarding the frame coating, does anyone ever go the powdercoat route? Is that way more expensive than other methods? I know it's been spoken highly of as far as axles are concerned so why not for the frame too?
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Old 08-10-2006, 10:54 PM   #45
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Ok, Hamibambi,

You haven't posted in 2 weeks... we need an update! Pictures, pictures, pictures!

Mrs. NorCal Bambi (traveling in S Tardis)
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Old 08-10-2006, 11:02 PM   #46
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frame coating

Hami; go to www.por15store.com and also do a search on this forum for POR15 (or POR-15, with the dash). You'll find a ton of good information on coating the frame. Most AS owners swear by it. I used it on my frame and I sure am impressed!

Quote:
Originally Posted by HamiBambi
Thanks Don, I'll be sure and keep an eye on the frame members and keeping them flat. I'm planning to farm out the sandblasting and the welding of the frame as I have no place to do the sandblasting and no experience with welding, although I think I remember that you rented a sandblaster and I was tempted to try it.

Chuck, do you know of a sandblaster and/or welder in the riverhead area that might be a good candidate. I found one in East Hampton, but my guess is that he'll be a lot more expensive than somebody in riverhead.

Finally, regarding the frame coating, does anyone ever go the powdercoat route? Is that way more expensive than other methods? I know it's been spoken highly of as far as axles are concerned so why not for the frame too?
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Old 09-06-2006, 11:47 AM   #47
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If you want something done . . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by CaddyGrn
Ok, Hamibambi,

You haven't posted in 2 weeks... we need an update! Pictures, pictures, pictures!

Mrs. NorCal Bambi (traveling in S Tardis)
Hi Mrs. NorCal and everyone else,

Where in the heck did August go. Well, I got down to the frame and took it to a welder to get it sandblasted and repaired. FLAKE. He's had it for over 5 weeks and he finally got it sandblasted and primered, but he didn't repair any of the cross members that had rusted through. Tried to convince me this wasn't necessary and that once the floor was on the structure would be fine. I differed and this week am having another metal shop bend some channel for me to use as replacements. Then the welder will finish the job. Meanwhile, I'm falling wayyy behind. I hope to get the frame back then execute a big late september push to get the bellypan and the shell back on before the winter weather comes. I'm a little worried that I may miss my deadlines. I have to close up the house November 15 and then I'm stuck in New York City until April 1 when I can ramp up the project again.

Anyway, that's the skinny and the reason for the long silence. Hope to get back on it in a week or two with more pictures. Thanks for asking! And thanks also P.F. for the info on POR. I'll be doing that as soon as the frame comes back. Talk soon!

Steve H.
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Old 09-06-2006, 12:08 PM   #48
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Steve, bummer you got slowed down.
You'll have to work your tail off now! I'm sure you can do it, though.
Are you still looking for a place to keep the trailer for the winter?
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Old 09-06-2006, 10:27 PM   #49
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Hami,

Glad to know you are still out there! Be assured you aren't alone! Don started on our flying cloud and is at about the same place you are... needs to get the frame redone, floor in, and shell back on before winter! And... it sure looks like an early one in the West. Leaves are falling in our backyard... boo...

Good luck! Keep us posted! You might see if anyone has ideas for how to store your trailer through the winter if you have to close up shop early. I am sure others have been there!

Mrs. NorCal Bambi (traveling in S Tardis)
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Old 09-06-2006, 11:15 PM   #50
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I would consider building a floor using 2x8s as the stringers on 16" centers and 2x4 decking on 12" centers. This would be a level platform on which to work and one that you could use to tie down the shell. With a plywood floor you could also use portable heat on the really cold days. Just a thought.
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Old 10-23-2006, 10:34 AM   #51
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Disasterous Setback

Hey Everyone,

Well, as you know, the welder set me back by a matter of months and now winter's upon me and I'm only going to get to pick up my frame this Friday or Monday. Good news is it's done, and he's sandblasted and primered it all and replaced 2 cross members and 2 outriggers so I think I'm in pretty good shape to move forward.

This is the good news. The bad news is that I just received notice that the lady we'd been renting our Montauk house from for the past three years has decided to cash in on the inflated real estate values out there and will not be renewing our lease. This means I've got to move everything out of there over the next three weeks and the trailer is never going to be ready even if I abandoned work and did nothing but work on it.

I don't think I can park the trailer in front of my apartment in Manhattan, so I have a lead on somebody in Brooklyn who works on Airstreams and I'm hoping maybe I could get them involved in the project and they could help me finish it and provide storage in the meantime.

Big question, Do you think that with the trailer all shimmed up with two by fours that I could move the unnattached shell on a flatbed and get it moved prior to putting it all back together?

What a dillemma!
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Old 10-23-2006, 10:46 AM   #52
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How Much POR 15 for 2 coats on a Bambi Frame?

Can anyone tell me about how much I'll need to order to get the frame coated? Do most people use Black. I notice they have Silver. Does it look good or is it a silver that clashes with the aluminum color? And finally if I do it in black can I paint over the POR 15 with some kind of silver or aluminum colored paint?

Thanks!

Steve H.
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Old 10-23-2006, 11:34 AM   #53
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The POR really goes far, get 1 quart, you can get it at Kemlier on Long Island, $40, if you need two just pickup another.

You don't need to paint over it in your case because it will not be expossed to the sun. So just get silver.

If your ready to paint the chasis, why not put the shell on it, and move it?

Where do you live if you're thinking of going to Brkln.

You can find many storage places on LI I would think.
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Old 10-23-2006, 03:19 PM   #54
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Por 15

Hi Lipets,

Thanks for the info on the POR. I almost was going to order like 2 gallons of the stuff. You saved me a fortune!

I live in Manhattan. We'd rented a house in Montauk for the past 3 years that was just a one bedroom cottage so I'd gotten the Bambi to use as a guest house. Then I got interested in restoring it, and of course travelling and rallying, and . . . well, you know how it goes. Now I have a Safari too.

I'm a little squeemish about rushing to get the shell back on, because I want to put in a grey tank, redo all the plumbing, etc. and I've never done anything like this before so I work very slow and double and triple check everything before moving ahead. With only three weekends before I have to move I don't think I can get through it all.

This weekend I have to winterize the Safari which is something I've never done before so I'm nervous about that and figure that will eat up this weekend. I'm a plodder. I can't help it. Very meticulous though.

Steve H.
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Old 10-23-2006, 05:17 PM   #55
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Now I understand a bit better.

I got 1 quart and did my frame, but since I did it from below it didn't take as much as it would have if the shell was off.

Why can't you bolt the shell on temporarily and add a few cross braces just to tow where you need to go.

Winterizing should take an hour.

Empty the holding tanks add 2 gallons of the pink stuff to your water tank pump through all faucets head etc. and lock it up.
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Old 10-23-2006, 07:39 PM   #56
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Frame, POR, and Winterizing

Hi Lipets,

Thanks for the info. Couple of questions.

Are you saying that you only did the exposed parts of the frame with one quart, ie just the bumper, the frame rails holding the bumber, and I guess what you'd call the foretriangle or something like that? If so, then I think I'd need more.

I thought about temporarily bolting the shell on. This would of course require me to get the plywood and cut out the new floor, have a piece of U channel fabricated, (well it's a small section so maybe I could do without, and then I guess I'd olympic rivet all around the edges and then redrill those out in order to put it on for real. There's just so many variables and things that I'm not so sure I can take care of that in a couple of weekends. Like I said, i work slow, so it seems a bit daunting, but still an option I'm considering.

And finally, I don't have a compressor. Is it possible to use something like a bicycle pump to blow all the liquid out of the lines or is that asking for trouble?

Thanks again!

Steve H.
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