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Old 03-07-2013, 07:59 PM   #15
Rivet Master

1973 25' Tradewind
Beautiful , Oregon
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 547
Bart thanks for taking the time to draw it out. Yes I can see all that.

So I guess what I do is drill out the rivets along the belt deal ( don't know what to call it) around to about the lights or so and slip the old steal out. That will be easier than putting in the replacement. I will round up some stainless steel and someone with a break or do a home effort between some 2x 4s or something.

Now I am debating going back to another x member. I feel the 1/2 lap and epoxy will make it stronger than the wood itself but I think epoxy is a brittle bond without much flex. So like everything I research and ponder at least 3 x the work I get in doing a thing. It would be longer without you alls help.



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Old 03-07-2013, 10:33 PM   #16
Maniacal Engineer
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1971 25' Tradewind
Menlo Park , California
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,210
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I used gorilla glue when I did mine; titebond III would work really well. Construction adhesive works too. I fastened the floor patches together with laminating screws, which look like really heavy duty wallboard screws. They're there just to hold things together while the glue dries.

With the rear floor gone, you can slip the metal up and in from the inside w/ only a few rivets out.

- Bart

Bart Smaalders
Menlo Park, CA
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Old 03-08-2013, 07:42 PM   #17
2 Rivet Member
1968 26' Overlander
Duluth , Minnesota
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 90
Epoxy will work but is a pain to work with. Construction adhesive is easy to use supplied in tubes, it's inexpensive, has long open time, and is very strong and somewhat flexible when cured. It is probably more like the glue in your plywood than epoxy is.

If your marine plywood has any kind of coating on the exterior, glues may not bond as well as they do to wood. Your lap detail eliminates that problem.

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