Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-06-2005, 02:23 PM   #1
3 Rivet Member
 
58BUBBLE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 105
Images: 9
Is this a patchable situation?

Hi all,
Well I have made some serious headway on my Bubble. I have completely removed the entire interior so I am down to skins & plywood. It looks like I have some leaks because there are water stains around almost the entire perimeter of the floor. The floor is still very solid except for a couple spots. The worst area is right at the door where the floor is still completely intact but is splintering and feels soft. Is there a repair method that would fix this problem without having to replace the floor? Would the rot doctor epoxy work well in this application? My one concern is this spot is right where the step is attached to the floor, the bolt already pulled through on the bad side of the floor. Except for this area and 1 or 2 other minor splinter spots the rest seems to be in great shape. I started sanding with my belt sander and the plywood looks brand new. I know I need to start by finding the leaks in the outside skin. I inspected it and I can't see anything in particular that is leaking. Could it just be the epoxy in the seams is failing? I have a tube of Vulkem and will reseal all the seams, hopefully that is the problem. TIA
__________________

__________________
58BUBBLE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2005, 03:15 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
Foiled Again's Avatar
 
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Vintage Kin Owner
Virginia Beach , Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,883
I'm not a restorer, but enjoy following the threads

I'm thinking condensation running down the walls would create dampness marks on the edge over time. They probably didn't make fantastic fans when yours was built, but I'd add one just to prevent condensation.

I'm sure you should vulkem all of the seams - after all your unit is half a century old so it would be just good preventative maintenance at this stage.

I'd also have to think that the heaviest wear would be right at the step, so if the rest of the floor is solid, I'd try to patch that one spot with new plywood. Of course you should examine as much of the underside and frame as you can when you cut the piece out. Who knows what evil lurks....

Good luck with your project,

Tin Lizzie
__________________

__________________
Foiled Again is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2005, 03:45 PM   #3
Moderator Emeritus
 
overlander64's Avatar
 
1964 26' Overlander
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
Anna , Illinois
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,396
Images: 183
Send a message via Yahoo to overlander64
Is this a patchable situation?

Greetings 58Bubble!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 58BUBBLE
Hi all,
Well I have made some serious headway on my Bubble. I have completely removed the entire interior so I am down to skins & plywood. It looks like I have some leaks because there are water stains around almost the entire perimeter of the floor. The floor is still very solid except for a couple spots. The worst area is right at the door where the floor is still completely intact but is splintering and feels soft. Is there a repair method that would fix this problem without having to replace the floor? Would the rot doctor epoxy work well in this application? My one concern is this spot is right where the step is attached to the floor, the bolt already pulled through on the bad side of the floor. Except for this area and 1 or 2 other minor splinter spots the rest seems to be in great shape. I started sanding with my belt sander and the plywood looks brand new. I know I need to start by finding the leaks in the outside skin. I inspected it and I can't see anything in particular that is leaking. Could it just be the epoxy in the seams is failing? I have a tube of Vulkem and will reseal all the seams, hopefully that is the problem. TIA
You might want to consider acquiring some products in addition to Vulkem for your sealing project. While I am not a do-it-yourselfer, I know that my Airstream service facility outlined the following as methods for sealing the exterior:

Vulkem for penetrations through the skin such as around windows, plumbing vents, roof vents, etc.

Creeping Crack Sealants for the actual rivited seams (the following have all been discussed on the Forums)

Alcoa Gutter Seal:
http://www.airstreamdreams.com/item....8&PRID=1443423

Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Seleant:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...roductId=19884

Acryl-R "Official Seam Sealer for Airstream Trailers"
http://www.airstream.com/shop/dynami...=cat&offset=15

Good luck with your project!

Kevin
__________________
Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI (Lifetime Member)/VAC/Free Wheelers #6359
AIR #827
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban (7400 VORTEC/4.11 Differentials)
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (8.2 Liter V8/2.70 Final Drive)
overlander64 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2005, 03:57 PM   #4
3 Rivet Member
 
58BUBBLE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 105
Images: 9
Can you just cutout the bad wood without causing structural problems? How do you tie it back in?
__________________
58BUBBLE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2005, 04:43 PM   #5
3 Rivet Member
 
58BUBBLE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 105
Images: 9
The more I inspect my floor the more I think the epoxy will work. My one concern is the bolt that comes up through the wood floor. It has pulled through. Is the epoxy strong enough to keep this bolt from pulling through again. My plan is to push the step back up to the right level which will push the bolt back into place. Then I will epoxy it all together assuming the epoxy works that well. If anyone knows if this should work please let me know. TIA
__________________
58BUBBLE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2005, 05:04 PM   #6
Moderator Emeritus
 
overlander64's Avatar
 
1964 26' Overlander
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
Anna , Illinois
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,396
Images: 183
Send a message via Yahoo to overlander64
Is this a patchable situation?

Greetings 58 Bubble!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 58BUBBLE
The more I inspect my floor the more I think the epoxy will work. My one concern is the bolt that comes up through the wood floor. It has pulled through. Is the epoxy strong enough to keep this bolt from pulling through again. My plan is to push the step back up to the right level which will push the bolt back into place. Then I will epoxy it all together assuming the epoxy works that well. If anyone knows if this should work please let me know. TIA
My Overlander had the soft floor near the door at one point in its life, and was repaired with some type of Epoxy product (prior to my purchase in 1995). The repair has held up well for more than ten years. There have been several threads here on the Forums about this process - - one that mentions the problems near the door can be found at:

http://www.airforums.com/forum...t=floor+repair

Something to consider about Epoxying the attaching hardware for the step is that it could make future repairs/adjustments to the mechanism more difficult. The restoration data that I have read regarding the use of Epoxy Consolidant products indicates that the fully-cured Epoxy treated wood is as strong (if not stronger) than untreated wood - - if this is the case, the repairs could be made and the step could then be reattached with bolts approximating its original installation.

Kevin
__________________
Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI (Lifetime Member)/VAC/Free Wheelers #6359
AIR #827
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban (7400 VORTEC/4.11 Differentials)
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (8.2 Liter V8/2.70 Final Drive)
overlander64 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2005, 05:58 PM   #7
Well Preserved

 
1993 21' Sovereign
Colfax , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 20,190
Quote:
Originally Posted by 58BUBBLE
Can you just cutout the bad wood without causing structural problems? How do you tie it back in?
If you are handy, and the bad area is not too large, you could cut out the spot in question, screw pressure-treated 2x4's around the edge, and screw a new piece of plywood to the 2x4's. A coat of epoxy should seal everything up nicely.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
overlander63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2005, 06:38 PM   #8
Rivet Master
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,482
Images: 19
If you do use Rot Doctor keep in mind that any hardware in place when the Rot Doctor is applied will be virtually impossible to get out, should the need arise. It would be best to remove the bolt in question, let the epoxy set up (and it will take several applications, each of which must dry), and then drill the hole for the bolt.

You can also saturate fine sawdust with Rot Doctor and trowel it on to fill low places. This will NOT add any strength, but it will provide a solid level fill.


Mark
__________________
'85 Sovereign, 25'
j54mark is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2005, 07:23 AM   #9
Rivet Master
 
eljay's Avatar
 
1968 24' Tradewind
Rural, blink and you'll miss it , Missouri
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 692
Images: 19
I used the RotFix and Sculptwood for repairs similar to yours (or what they "sound like"). I am pleased with the results.
__________________
Not knowing enough to be afraid... (I know more than I did, but I did it anyway!)

Eljay

1968 Tradewind Double.
eljay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2005, 01:46 PM   #10
3 Rivet Member
 
58BUBBLE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 105
Images: 9
Thanks For The Feedback, I'm Going To Try The Rot Doctor. I'll Let You Know How It Goes.
__________________
58BUBBLE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2005, 09:12 AM   #11
3 Rivet Member
 
58BUBBLE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 105
Images: 9
After reading all the frame and floor stories on this site I have decided there is no way I can leave in a 50 year old floor. Even though my floor is in pretty good condition it is not perfect. It began yesterday when I went out to work on my windows. After a few minutes I started poking around at the floor trying to reassure myself that it would be fine with the Rot Doctor repair. Anyway, one poke led to another and before I knew It I had removed my interior skins and half the belly pan. I am so glad I decided to go with the full repair. I know I would have worried about my floor and frame and regreted not replacing it later. Also, once I pulled the skins and got a good look at the wiring I can finally understand how the vintage system works along with the mess the PO made. I am so excited now about my Bubble, now I will truly know this thing inside and out. (Peace of mind is beautiful) Thank you all for the inspiration you have all given me in this forum. I'm sure I'll have many questions in the upcoming months. BTW- if anyone is looking for some Rot Doctor there is an order on it's way to my house, I'll give someone a good deal.
__________________
58BUBBLE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2005, 04:59 PM   #12
Rivet Master
 
Over59's Avatar
 
1959 26' Overlander
Putnam , Connecticut
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,064
Images: 37
You can still use the Rot Doc on the underside of the new floor.
__________________
Over59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2005, 05:23 PM   #13
Rivet Master
 
Foiled Again's Avatar
 
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Vintage Kin Owner
Virginia Beach , Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,883
Exclamation Thank goodness I just READ vintage postings

"The full monte strikes again".

You go for it man.

I know my new 22 ft doesn't have the character, or the meese's poo , or the ssss-zap univolt ss-spark, or the tradition. Sigh...

But I'm a happy camper anyway. Tin Lizzie
__________________
Foiled Again is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2005, 05:27 PM   #14
Rivet Master
 
Ken J's Avatar
 
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 3,363
Images: 14
I think floor replacement is the best solution - you will feel a lot better about it and floor replacement is not that difficult.

Ken
__________________

__________________
1956 Flying Cloud
Founder :
Four Corners Unit
Albuquerque National Balloon Fiesta
Rally
Vintage Trailer Academy - Formerly the original
restoration rally
Ken J is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2002 'Deam' Designed Airstream. Andy R Community Polls 48 04-23-2010 03:08 PM
Droopy Rear End (Motorhome) smily Mechanics Corner - Engines, Transmission & More... 57 02-10-2004 11:17 AM
f150 w/ a 4.6 vi 60traveler Tow Vehicles 7 08-11-2003 03:45 PM
Blowout John Brimer Airstream Motorhome Forums 3 08-27-2002 06:15 PM
And you think you got a deal... BobbyW Our Community 21 06-05-2002 08:54 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:08 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.