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Old 01-04-2011, 03:23 PM   #15
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Would it work?

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Old 01-04-2011, 04:10 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by soldiermedic View Post
So basically the previous person working on it took out the rotted wood. When it was replaced, the wood was notched where the old bolts were that attached it to the frame?

This is oddly familiar as my trailer must have had the same person working on it. Was it anything like this pic below from my old 53 Flying Cloud?



When bolted through channel, floor, frame, and riveted to the shell, the strength is considerable.


By not having the whole sheet of plywood and using the small strips, you have less area for the stress, flexing, and pressure of movement to be distributed. This could lead to failure.

Also, the shell when connected to the floor channel and frame is actually holding up that floor when you walk on it. If you don;t have the plywood underneath it to the outriggers and connected to channel, you could run the risk of breaking parts of the floor.

These are only my experiences during my time here and the rebuild of my old 53. There are others with infinite more experience who can assist you further. My old blog as seen below in my sig chronicles the 53 up till i was forced to sell it. Feel free to look at the trials, tribulations, screw ups, etc.Steve

No but that was what I was planning as the re-do. I se via your post and others that notching the replacement plywood will not solve much. I don't know how to get at the exisitng bolts, slide in an new floor section, then re-bolt the floor w/o lifting the body off (not a viable option for me). Maybe that process is covered in other posts? Thanks for the reply.
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Old 01-04-2011, 04:48 PM   #17
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i will put a couple of pics up tomorrow on how im doing mine .
i cut the floor out then got a grinder to all the old bolts in the U channel and screws then cleaned the under side of the channel . then cut the new sheet of ply and did one side at a time so the join of the boards is in the centre of the AS front to back with the other join 4 foot from the back.

hope this helps
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Old 01-04-2011, 05:10 PM   #18
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i will put a couple of pics up tomorrow on how im doing mine .
i cut the floor out then got a grinder to all the old bolts in the U channel and screws then cleaned the under side of the channel . then cut the new sheet of ply and did one side at a time so the join of the boards is in the centre of the AS front to back with the other join 4 foot from the back.

hope this helps
Andy
Sounds good - I'll be interested in how the new bolts are placed through the new floor. All I can imagine is removing the interior skin to finish that part.
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Old 01-04-2011, 05:12 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by 2lrminivan View Post
i will put a couple of pics up tomorrow on how im doing mine .
i cut the floor out then got a grinder to all the old bolts in the U channel and screws then cleaned the under side of the channel . then cut the new sheet of ply and did one side at a time so the join of the boards is in the centre of the AS front to back with the other join 4 foot from the back.

hope this helps
Andy
Forgot to insert - this link has a lot of good info on our respective problem http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...oor-54952.html
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Old 01-05-2011, 12:53 PM   #20
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didnt manage to take any pics today but look at my this http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...dor-72472.html
its some pics i took a couple of weeks ago.
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Old 01-05-2011, 05:35 PM   #21
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I think you'll find that everyone here will agree that you need to do it over again. As Frank states, the green wood contains copper (correct me if I am wrong), and will cause major corrosion with the aluminum. The monocoque design of an airstream requires that the integrity of the floor, frame, and shell all be a strong unit. The non continuous boards will have little strength compared to a sheet of plywood.

Steve
Am I understanding correctly that I will have to remove the inner skin to replace the plywood and new elevtaor bolts? Does the rear belly pan have to come off too or not?
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Old 01-05-2011, 08:06 PM   #22
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Yes, Interior skins need to come out, and some of the belly pan will need to be taken down. Use new elevator bolts as well.
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Old 01-06-2011, 05:22 AM   #23
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Yes, Interior skins need to come out, and some of the belly pan will need to be taken down. Use new elevator bolts as well.
OK - thanks for the info, no sense in doing a half-baked repair. Will any of the big box stores carry new elevator bolts?
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Old 01-06-2011, 05:45 AM   #24
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OK - thanks for the info, no sense in doing a half-baked repair. Will any of the big box stores carry new elevator bolts?
I see from other posts I'll need 1/4 20 elevator bolts but cannot find a post about which length to buy. Stainless or gavanized best? Wanted to have the bolts ready for the re-do.
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Old 01-06-2011, 06:06 AM   #25
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Go to Fastenal. They come zinc or black coated. I think 1 1/4" is plenty long. You need nuts too. I use nuts, washers, and lock washers. I also bend the remaining shaft to keep the nut from coming off. Better safe, than asked to repair it over. You will also need a forstner bit to counter sink a hole in the plywood.
I strongly encourage you to read more threads and also peoples blogs that have done this work. It is not hard, but must done correctly. I sense a little of "learning as you go", and you need to be very sure about what you are doing.
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Old 01-06-2011, 10:13 AM   #26
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Go to Fastenal. They come zinc or black coated. I think 1 1/4" is plenty long. You need nuts too. I use nuts, washers, and lock washers. I also bend the remaining shaft to keep the nut from coming off. Better safe, than asked to repair it over. You will also need a forstner bit to counter sink a hole in the plywood.
I strongly encourage you to read more threads and also peoples blogs that have done this work. It is not hard, but must done correctly. I sense a little of "learning as you go", and you need to be very sure about what you are doing.
Thanks for the info - its completely learn as I go on this and I appeciate the inf offered here and on some of the other posts I am now begining to read - should have done this first - guess I thought putting in a section new plywood was a no brainer....NOT
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Old 01-06-2011, 10:50 AM   #27
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You will also need a forstner bit to counter sink a hole in the plywood.
I "cheated" by using an air gun to tighten the nut so the head pulled into the wood. I reasoned that compressed wood would be harder. With hindsight, it was possibly a little quicker, and one less tool for me to buy, but with a do-over I would use a forstner bit too.
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Old 01-06-2011, 11:03 AM   #28
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Dave, you got lucky. Most bolts are made of the cheapest metal alloy that will still meet the code minimums for grade. I have broken many of them just using a socket a little exuberance.
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