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Old 01-18-2005, 08:14 PM   #15
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Oh, well then, you're mising out on all the 'bonding' I'm getting to do with my Caravel...
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Old 01-19-2005, 01:57 AM   #16
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Hm.
My husband used to be a pipe coverer ("heat and frost insulator" for purists, "lagger" for old schoolers), he might have some answers too. I was just thinking about putting some down under the floor on top of the frame, but Mr. Former Insulation Guy probably has all kinds of tricks up his sleeve he hasn't told me about. Far be it for me to ask him first though. Good thing he never uses the computer or he'd know of all my lack of faith...

Thanks for all that. Will be back to check for more...thank goodness this forum is here for insomniacs and rainy weather.

i.
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Old 01-19-2005, 11:08 AM   #17
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Malcolm. How thick is that floor going to be when you're done? You'll be hitting your head.
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Old 01-19-2005, 03:07 PM   #18
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I am adding a total of 3/4"...

I am of course aware that I am reducing the distance from the floor to the ceiling of our AS. I am adding 3/4" on top of the sub-floor with the radiant heating system and foil insulation. I intend to add some type of floating floor on top of that system. I have not made up my mind yet as to type but it does need to be able to free span the 4-1/2" gaps between the 1x2 strips. I am currently leaning in favor of a 3/8" thick bamboo floating floor. The floating floor would make it easy for me to get to the heating system should there ever be any need to repair anything. The bamboo is also probably one of the best possible solutions for spanning that distance. Bamboo as I understand it is even harder than oak. Since I would probably be putting something similar to the bamboo on the floor even if I was not doing the radiant heat the net effect is that the top of my finished floor will be 3/4" higher than otherwise. The rough distance from the floor to the ceiling is about 80". I am 6' 2" tall which is 74". That leaves about 6" of clearance. I have already decided that I can live with loosing 3/4" of that distance. Also all of my interior will be completely new and built from scratch. So I have virtually no worries relative to anything not fitting because of the extra floor height.

Malcolm
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Old 01-25-2005, 04:42 AM   #19
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I am unable to read all the posts here...except to scan over them...and this is my constant delemma...not reading well. Suffice-it-to-say, I'm not getting everything everyone is writing about; and it's been awhile since I re-did my flooring, but my memory & receipts (& "Log") serve me well..this was for laying down new carpeting and vinyl---NOT FOR REPLACING THE FLOORING.
I was strongly advised to not lay down the yellow 'vapor-barrier' between the marine plywood Airstream had used (stock) and the new flooring (carpets/vinyl). Reason: they said, was that the floors should "BREATHE"...because not only is the warmth supposed to keep them dry from INSIDE (heat), but they need to 'breathe' from below (under the rig) from the flow of air.
They also recommended (this was an Airstream Dealer and certified Airstream mechanic) that prior to laying the new flooring down, I treat the stock marine plywood with a moisture barrier coating (like verathan in a gallong can); which I did by 'painting' it on and allowing it to dry thoroughly. I can't tell you the name of the product, without spending a lot of time looking it all up...but, I do recall that it was somewhat caustic and required wearing a vapor mask and having the area well vented.
ANYONE KNOW WHAT THE STUFF WAS?
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Old 01-25-2005, 05:20 AM   #20
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Since writing the above post, I went searching for a thread about my insulation issue...and not finding it, I started it...because it is an issue with the WALL insulation---not flooring.
If these 2 should be 'married' (joined together in one thread) then, the webbies will do it I'm sure... Then, we should name the (joined) thread entitled just plain "Insulation" (not including 'suggestions'...& not 'wall'). But, call it just plain "INSULATION".
i'M leaving this post here for you all, so that those of you who read this thread's posts will be aware of the new one I just started, until such time as our illustrous "Webbie" puts them together, if that does happen. If not...see you there! I need suggestions too!
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Old 02-21-2005, 07:08 PM   #21
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What's the power plant for your radiant?

Just curious what you're using to produce your heat for the hydronic radiant? I have miles of radiant heat tubes in my house and outbuildings powered by hot water heaters, munchkin boilers and soon a new high-efficiency wood powered unit.

Have you got that full of anti-freeze?

expiring minds want to know.
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Old 02-22-2005, 11:32 AM   #22
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Johnboy,

I am intending to pick a water heater with enough capacity for both hot water and heating hot water. Generally speaking I don't think the water heater has to be bigger than what would work for hot water since the heating for the most part will not be happening at the same time as the hot water demand. I am leaning in favor of a continuous flow unit like the RV500 if I decide I can afford one.

I am intending to use a so-called "open" system where the fresh water passes through the heating coils to keep them from stagnating. If I were to run anti-freeze then I would have to either run two water heaters or use a heat exchanger that isolates the heating water from the fresh water. Take a look at the following web site for a general schematic of the approach I am thinking of taking:

http://www.radiantcompany.com/system/open.shtml

Malcolm
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