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10-31-2014, 07:55 AM
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#21
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Rivet Master
1969 29' Ambassador
brooksville
, Florida
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverflames
Sounds like it's time to seal that floor, and to start chasing down leaks. I used a oil based floor paint to sea most of my floor. Only down side is that it takes days and days to dry.
Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
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Also I had to primer first.
Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
__________________
Not all those who wonder are lost.
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10-31-2014, 07:55 AM
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#22
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Rivet Master
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,525
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seal the seams on the roof and sides especially around the door and the vents. Then check it all with a hose.
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10-31-2014, 07:54 PM
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#23
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 57
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Can I just use something like Thompson's Water Seal for sealing the plywood?
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10-31-2014, 07:55 PM
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#24
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALANSD
seal the seams on the roof and sides especially around the door and the vents. Then check it all with a hose.
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I just bought a tube of clear silicone sealer to use... is that okay to use?
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10-31-2014, 08:31 PM
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#25
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Dazed and Confused
Currently Looking...
1983 31' Airstream310
Hillsburgh
, Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,805
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trixella
I just bought a tube of clear silicone sealer to use... is that okay to use?
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NO, NO, NO, NO, silicone doesn't adhere to aluminum at all. Use a polyurethane sealant such as Trempro 635 or Sikiflex 221. You can use Parbond as well but it is tricky to work with as it tacks instantly. Mask off all areas that you DON'T want sealant on to and use mineral spirits on you fingers to smooth out and clean up. Practice on a piece of angle aluminum until you get a feel for how long you have to work with the product before it starts to skin.
Don't ever use silicone.
As far as your flooring goes. I'm a cabinetmaker who loves wood and still bought a real wood veneered engineered flooring with a cork backing. It was a breeze to install as it clicked locked together. I floated the floor for ease of repair or replacement.
I have seen a 3/4 solid floor installed in an Airstream with screws and plugs. The flooring heaved, broke screws, buckled, pulling screws out of the subfloor and ended up a stained mildewed mess. Pine, especially 3/4" will expand significantly if not sealed. Also you MUST seal both sides the very same way as finish on one side and not the other will cause the wood to cup big time. I personally would not use solid wood in a trailer floor.
Cheers
Tony
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10-31-2014, 08:32 PM
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#26
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Rivet Master
1999 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Hillsboro
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 6,408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trixella
I just bought a tube of clear silicone sealer to use... is that okay to use?
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No. The solvent in the silicone is an acid which will corrode the aluminum. Then you will have a real mess.
Get Capt Tolleys creeping crack cure or Acryl from Aairstream for rivets and sheet seams.
For larger cracks use a polyurethane sealant. I got the Adseal for that. Both products available thru AIRSTREAM.
I have not found anything remotely similar in Austin.
__________________
Peace and Blessings..
Channing
WBCCI# 30676
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10-31-2014, 08:55 PM
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#27
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 57
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Quote:
No. The solvent in the silicone is an acid which will corrode the aluminum. Then you will have a real mess.
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Well cr*p!! I used some household silicone I had laying around here the other day to fill in about 10 little holes that are on the exterior of the trailer. Can I pull the silicone out of the holes and then use something like mineral spirits or rubbing alcohol to remove any film left on the surface?
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10-31-2014, 09:05 PM
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#28
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Rivet Master
1999 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Hillsboro
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 6,408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trixella
Well cr*p!! I used some household silicone I had laying around here the other day to fill in about 10 little holes that are on the exterior of the trailer. Can I pull the silicone out of the holes and then use something like mineral spirits or rubbing alcohol to remove any film left on the surface?
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The sooner you get the siliconr ne off the better. Mineral spirits may help too.
__________________
Peace and Blessings..
Channing
WBCCI# 30676
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11-01-2014, 07:10 AM
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#29
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Broadway
, North Carolina
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 838
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Treat with borate first.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trixella
Can I just use something like Thompson's Water Seal for sealing the plywood?
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Before painting or waterproofing, treat with borate. Also known as Borax it is a safe mineral solution that will prevent any wood rot fungus should you have a leak in the future. I use it for termite and wood rot protection on remodeling projects.
Bora-care is a commercial supplier which is particularly good when there is existing fungus.. Builders » Nisus Corp
Another is Tim-Bor - easy to mis powder for new wood. Amazon.com : Tim-bor Professional Insecticide and Fungicide, 1.5 lb. bag : Insect Repellents : Patio, Lawn & Garden
__________________
2006 Safari SE FB
2000 F150 4.2L (retired), 2011 F250 6.2L, 2010 ML550, 2000 Excursion 7.3L
Broadway, NC
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11-01-2014, 07:24 AM
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#30
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Broadway
, North Carolina
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trixella
The PO layed the plywood pretty tightly against the walls in spots... is there a tool I can use to shave those spots down without having to uninstall the plywood? It's tight mainly around the corners.
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Is your concern having an expansion gap for the plywood subfloor? If so, it is not nearly as critical for the plywood as it is to have the gap with the finish floor.
Wood expands from humidity across the grain not with the grain. That is why your flooring needs a gap on the sides but not the ends. Plywood layers are glued up with the grain running against each other, controlling expansion.
If it is already lifting up or otherwise concerns you, you could carefully chip it out with a wood chisel , a small oscillating saw, or a small rotary blade on a dremel tool.
__________________
2006 Safari SE FB
2000 F150 4.2L (retired), 2011 F250 6.2L, 2010 ML550, 2000 Excursion 7.3L
Broadway, NC
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11-01-2014, 08:06 AM
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#31
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4 Rivet Member
1976 25' Tradewind
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 353
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Great advice on the Tim-bor I have a new plywood subfloor on my 76' definitely going to treat with this everywhere prior to painting floor with an oil based floor paint. Any need to prime subfloor? I saw another poster say they did, but would adhesion really be a factor?
Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
76 'Airstream Tradewind
__________________
Matt
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11-01-2014, 09:23 AM
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#32
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Broadway
, North Carolina
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millertimeUS
....painting floor with an oil based floor paint. Any need to prime subfloor?
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If you plan for your finished floor to be oil based paint then using an oil based primer and sanding between coats is best.
If you are painting the subfloor to seal and shed any water leaks before putting down the finish floor, one or two coats of oil or water based primer should do the trick.
Quote:
Originally Posted by millertimeUS
going to treat with this everywhere
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Soak it well and for plywood, try to treat the edges. As soon as the one coat has soaked in - add another until it will not take anymore. If you want to paint, let it dry out well.
__________________
2006 Safari SE FB
2000 F150 4.2L (retired), 2011 F250 6.2L, 2010 ML550, 2000 Excursion 7.3L
Broadway, NC
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11-01-2014, 09:49 AM
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#33
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwf
The sooner you get the siliconr ne off the better. Mineral spirits may help too.
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I just picked up a tube of Parbond. After I pick the silicone out and clean it with mineral spirits, do I need to wash the mineral spirits off the surface with something like alcohol so the parbond will adhere?
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11-01-2014, 10:00 AM
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#34
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 57
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Quote:
Any need to prime subfloor? I saw another poster say they did, but would adhesion really be a factor?
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I'd like to know the answer to this question too.
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11-01-2014, 10:03 AM
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#35
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 57
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Quote:
As far as your flooring goes. I'm a cabinetmaker who loves wood and still bought a real wood veneered engineered flooring with a cork backing. It was a breeze to install as it clicked locked together. I floated the floor for ease of repair or replacement.
I have seen a 3/4 solid floor installed in an Airstream with screws and plugs. The flooring heaved, broke screws, buckled, pulling screws out of the subfloor and ended up a stained mildewed mess. Pine, especially 3/4" will expand significantly if not sealed. Also you MUST seal both sides the very same way as finish on one side and not the other will cause the wood to cup big time. I personally would not use solid wood in a trailer floor.
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I really like the look of the wide wood planks and the price point is really good but I'm beginning to reconsider paying 3 to 4 times as much for an engineered floating floor. Hmmm.
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11-01-2014, 10:29 AM
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#36
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4 Rivet Member
1976 25' Tradewind
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 353
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Awesome wayward thanks for the info. Would a water based primer hold up to foot traffic as well as oil until I get finish floor in. Might be quite a while.
Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
76 'Airstream Tradewind
__________________
Matt
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11-01-2014, 02:22 PM
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#37
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retired USA/USAF
2001 30' Excella
Somerset
, New Jersey
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,418
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I don't recall if the original poster was planning on using a pre-finished wood floor or the traditional flooring requiring sanding/ finishing. I think the ease of the engineered floating floors available would offset the fuss and mess of the sanding & finishing process. The fact that they have much less expansion & contraction is another big plus. Our first and older AS had a floating cork floor that was good looking and nice to walk on but if doing it again I think I'd go engineered wood of some kind.
Whichever way you choose, good luck with it. I'm sure the end result will look great.
__________________
Roger in NJ
" Democracy is the worst form of government. Except for all the rest"
Winston Churchill 1948
TAC - NJ 18
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11-03-2014, 05:16 AM
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#38
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Broadway
, North Carolina
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millertimeUS
Awesome wayward thanks for the info. Would a water based primer hold up to foot traffic as well as oil until I get finish floor in. Might be quite a while.
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Yes. Use two coats then.
__________________
2006 Safari SE FB
2000 F150 4.2L (retired), 2011 F250 6.2L, 2010 ML550, 2000 Excursion 7.3L
Broadway, NC
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11-03-2014, 05:32 AM
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#39
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Broadway
, North Carolina
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polarlyse
I don't recall if the original poster was planning on using a pre-finished wood floor or the traditional flooring requiring sanding/ finishing. I think the ease of the engineered floating floors available would offset the fuss and mess of the sanding & finishing process.
The fact that they have much less expansion & contraction is another big plus.
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Good points. Trixella seems to like the look and price of unfinished pine wide planks.
The white pine and yellow pine flooring I use comes sanded very smooth, and the wide planks in 8 foot lengths minimize joints, so final sanding is a breeze.
For an application like this, the boards can even be lightly sanded, stained/primed and finished with one coat before installation. Then a light sanding and one or two finish coats after installation.
Engineered floors have advantages too, nail, glued or floated. In an Airstream or other moisture prone environments I like to seal the bottom and edges. That is time consuming with prefinished floor to avoid messing up the finished side.
__________________
2006 Safari SE FB
2000 F150 4.2L (retired), 2011 F250 6.2L, 2010 ML550, 2000 Excursion 7.3L
Broadway, NC
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11-03-2014, 06:18 AM
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#40
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 57
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Quote:
Engineered floors have advantages too, nail, glued or floated. In an Airstream or other moisture prone environments I like to seal the bottom and edges. That is time consuming with prefinished floor to avoid messing up the finished side.
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I've decided to do a floating cork floor. I can seal the edges and bottom with a matte water based polyrurethane. The clear matte wouldn't show up if a little did get on to the top side.
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