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Old 05-27-2012, 11:00 PM   #29
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1969 27' Overlander
Lenoir , North Carolina
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I don't know wtf is wrong with this site....love the peeps and the info but it takes me at least 20 mins to get logged in to make a post wtf is up with this?????. I've been on 3 computers this eve just trying to do a simple response and it took me 30 mins!!!!! Is it me?
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Old 05-28-2012, 11:40 AM   #30
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1973 27' Overlander
1972 29' Ambassador
St. Paul , Minnesota
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Cookies - log in to this site and the server sets a cookie or two on your machine that keeps the account synchronized.

Have those cookies deleted by privacy settings or paranoid PC software.... and there is no continuity each time the PC browser runs. I think the last time I was forced to log-in at airforums.com was five or eight months ago. So, my two-bits is on a software setting that erases this website's tracks.

Also, the advertising servers, the sources of any ads on the browser page, may be tossing up their cookies with slooow timing etc. into the mess. Try Mozilla Firefox browser with 'do not track plus' add-on. Silences those beggars standing outside the theater ticket booth so to speak.

mrgreen - thats a wild turkey lured by hunger to the song bird feeder.

ProWelder - looks like 'spray' insulation, mix part A & B in the sprayer nozzle and Joe Somewhen effortlessly tripled the work you face now to undo it

Okay - on adding outriggers in the back, I've read Andy saying sure put some stubbies on. But with the consequences of the extended lever of the rear frame and the 'static' eggshell 'holding up the frame' and the slight weakness of the shell at the wheel wells, and nine other litters of kittens built-in not readily apparent - the plywood spring tension goes way up as the curve reduces, etc. kind of makes the stubriggers like adding an extra little toe on your foot, if five are good then six are better.

All that being said with the shell off it take a 32nd degree mason and a coupler of 5th-graders to perfectly meander-establish the plywood curves in relation to the shell curve, without having accurate* old floor templates. And to locate the stubriggers perfectly, unless you wait until the shell is landed to size them and weld them on, would probably involve quantum mechanics and time travel.

On my '73 there is a battery locker cutout notch in the floor (sits both over/under where the floor should) be on one side and a hot water heater shell cut-out on the other side - both have missing C-channel sections on/at the curve of the end cap. If they wanted the rear shell to be welded down they sure wouldn't have accessorized it with those add-on cut-outs.
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Old 05-29-2012, 09:21 AM   #31
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1969 27' Overlander
Lenoir , North Carolina
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Thank you Wabbiteer, I'm sorry for getting upset. Somedays I think the computer is here just to drive us insane...
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Old 05-30-2012, 12:02 PM   #32
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1969 27' Overlander
Lenoir , North Carolina
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The past few days I have'nt made much progress....still trying to remove the spray foam from the frame rails. I removed the biggest part with a screwdriver but it's taking forever. Does anyone know a better way to remove this stuff and the sealer for the wheel wells? Pressure washer?
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Old 05-30-2012, 12:46 PM   #33
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I would use a power wire brush to get the spray foam off the frame section. Wear a face shield and gauntlets and have at it. FWIW I have used a 9" grinder for the task before and it makes short work of it...makes a helluva mess too.

Aaron
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Old 05-30-2012, 01:04 PM   #34
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I got used to 4500-5000psi diesel fired steam pressure washers working for a subway system - a 3000 PSI unit I was forced to buy last fall is like painting a house with a toothbrush in comparison. If you can get on the old-boy network and find a real steam cleaner by all means go for it, a good cold-water cleaner will certainly do a lot of work but not quickly or evenly.

After that you are still going to have to mechanically strip the dregs of the original paint off sometime - maybe the angle grinder with twisted-bristle wire wheels could make the foam go elsewhere. Would also reduce the units of time Joe Welder needs to burn some rod/wire when its his time to 'shine'.

Sand blasting with cheap coal slag grit is satisfying but extremely aggressive, it will eat good and bad metal just the same. Screening & reusing most types of once-shot abrasive stretches it. Make a moving backstop and tarp collector. Dispose of all the slag/rust/paint dust safely off site.
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Old 06-03-2012, 11:00 AM   #35
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1969 27' Overlander
Lenoir , North Carolina
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Well i have the frame cleaned from the spray foam crap. I need to remove the belly pan and i'll b ready for some frame repair.
I notice something wrong with this thing everytime i look at it. Today i was looking at the outrigger alignment from side to side when i noticed the frame is bent behind the streetside tire. I knew this trailer has had some major reconstruction in it's life but it keeps going.
I'm getting ready for shoulder surgery so things will be coming to a stop for 8-12 weeks.....
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Old 06-03-2012, 01:20 PM   #36
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Cedaredge , Colorado
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Hey proWelder, I'm just taking my floor off today. I already have the belly pan off As I needed it off to get the wraps off. That spray in foam sucks, I'm dealing with it too.

I used gantry's to lift mine. They worked really slick and I will use them to lift and rotate the frame to work on, and spray my Por15 on the frame when all the surface rust if removed..
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...ml#post1155817 Here's my project..
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