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Old 05-18-2012, 10:48 AM   #15
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1969 27' Overlander
Lenoir , North Carolina
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Will the floor c channel from ODM work on my 69? Only difference I see is it has a lip for the floor to slide into.
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Old 05-18-2012, 12:35 PM   #16
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1967 24' Tradewind
Wickenburg , Arizona
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The cast door on my 67 Tradewind was cracked, I heliarced it no problem. Since your's is the frame that is cracked I would do as others have sugested and resolve the issue that caused the crack.
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Old 05-18-2012, 01:28 PM   #17
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1969 27' Overlander
folsom , California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProWelder View Post
Went to the camping center and found some spray sealer....21 bucks a can...gonna do some testing tomrrow.
What kind did you get?
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Old 05-20-2012, 09:17 AM   #18
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1969 27' Overlander
Lenoir , North Carolina
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It's called "LEAKS SPRAYNSEAL"....sounds cheesy...but the only spray they have.
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Old 05-24-2012, 12:23 PM   #19
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1969 27' Overlander
Lenoir , North Carolina
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Well the shell is raised and I'm almost ready to pull the frame out. I have to raise it another 6 inches or so. I bought a set of stanely sawhorses from Lowes but still not sure about setting the shell on them....they were the most expensive ones they had but they still look cheap and i'm afraid they won't hold up. Any advice?
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Old 05-24-2012, 01:17 PM   #20
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1973 27' Overlander
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St. Paul , Minnesota
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Heehehehe. Sorry, couldn't resist.

As long as you have the shell tautly strapped down to ground anchors, point the skinny end into the most likely prevailing wind, and avoid storm wind gusts the aerodynamic shell will shed most upsetting forces. I sat under my lifted shell in 45-55mph cross-wind gusts and was amazed how little the shell wanted to move. Nesting it beside a building and parking another vehicle alongside would hedge your bets.

$100 worth of lumber and $50 worth of screws bought the pylons I used to hold my shell up for nine weeks, I was expecting to be forced to have it separated all winter but we had an easy Fall weather wise.

Not saying this is what you should do, just saying 10-14 days separated is different than 10-14 weeks. Photo is the day I got to reinsert frame under shell - 20th Nov 2011.
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:38 AM   #21
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I wish mine looked that good..... Gonna try to post some pics...
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Old 05-25-2012, 11:12 AM   #22
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okay - that is scary.

Blocks without alternating length/width stacks topple over way too easily, rain soaked ground lets them lean a bit blah blah, something. Murphy loves Shell-offs!

The fence as a wind block is great, as is that big white Dodge.

Once the frame has been pulled: On all four concrete pylon posts.. If you can snub a vertical 2x4 against the blocks, and connect another brace to the shell cross-support beam to make a triangle brace - and stake the triangles ground corner down so it can't splay out that should keep the second inch of lateral movement from happening. Might get a inch of wiggle but not a losing balance three+ inches. No promises made, just a way to use another four 2x4's and thirty deck screws to maybe sleep a little easier.

Three or four years ago there was a photo set of a shell that got the potion-of-motion while it was off-frame in somebodies back farm lot. Not a whole lot of visible damage, no buckled ribs but I'm not sure it ever got back together afterwards.

Can you get circus-tent style stakes in to rope over the top of the trailer to? Or something with serious ballast weight?
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Old 05-25-2012, 12:46 PM   #23
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Lenoir , North Carolina
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The shell was never actually sitting on those blocks....i had them as a back up if something slid. I had it on blocks on the trailer floor. It's off , frame is out and I set the shell on 4 blocks 2 blocks high. It was'nt to bad raising it alone but it was a nerve racking job sitting it down. Post pics tomorrow...on my way to work.....gonna be a three day weekend.
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Old 05-26-2012, 09:52 AM   #24
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Gee ProWeld.. Sorry for calling Wolf.

I remember making doubly sure there was no one around to witness the three-ring lift and drop circuses here! Thanks for sharing.

I envy your having steel wheel wells, the plastic set they use on this '73 are almost unusable from aging cracks and I'm sure someone will be cussing me in the future for reusing them...
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Old 05-27-2012, 12:12 PM   #25
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1969 27' Overlander
Lenoir , North Carolina
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No problem Wabbiteer....I should have explained the blocking.
I have the frame in my wifes favorite parking spot to remove the flooring and to start on the frame repair....i told her that it shouldn't be there more than a day or two.
I had my new frame rails fabricated out of 3/16 steel at my old job place...i had 20 foot fabricated so i would have enough to make the outriggers. Has anyone added any extra outriggers toward the rear? I thought about adding an extra back there but i dont want to cause further issues.
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Old 05-27-2012, 02:05 PM   #26
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have you inspected the frame yet? what caused the door break bad frame or bad axles? my frame was really bad (just finished building a new one) but luckily my door frame stayed intact i am interested to see what state your frame is in.
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Old 05-27-2012, 02:06 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wabbiteer View Post
Heehehehe. Sorry, couldn't resist.

As long as you have the shell tautly strapped down to ground anchors, point the skinny end into the most likely prevailing wind, and avoid storm wind gusts the aerodynamic shell will shed most upsetting forces. I sat under my lifted shell in 45-55mph cross-wind gusts and was amazed how little the shell wanted to move. Nesting it beside a building and parking another vehicle alongside would hedge your bets.

$100 worth of lumber and $50 worth of screws bought the pylons I used to hold my shell up for nine weeks, I was expecting to be forced to have it separated all winter but we had an easy Fall weather wise.

Not saying this is what you should do, just saying 10-14 days separated is different than 10-14 weeks. Photo is the day I got to reinsert frame under shell - 20th Nov 2011.

i have to ask about the Turkey in your photo, friend or food!!
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Old 05-27-2012, 02:57 PM   #28
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1969 27' Overlander
Lenoir , North Carolina
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Well I have all of the flooring removed..all that is left is the blown insulation removal. From what i can see so far the frame is in great shape..except 2 to 3 foot on the rear street side. Alot of surface rust but no holes or rot. After 40 some years the sealant is still goo around the wheel wells.
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