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Old 01-14-2010, 04:03 AM   #15
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Great idea with the film.
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Old 01-14-2010, 07:42 AM   #16
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It looks like you have enough slack on the hose from the water pump to the tee fitting where you can cut an inch or so off the hose to get a new clean end, clean off the tee, and then re-clamp it to the tee fitting with a new clamp. While you're at it, you might want to do the same on the water pump side - basically shorten the hose by an inch on each end and re-install with new clamps. That's what I would do.

It does look like the clamps from the tee to the water line are factory installed crimp clamps, so I doubt that they are leaking. I'd try just the water pump hose to start with, and if the tee fitting still leaks, then cut it out of the water line and replace it. The hose clamps that are currently installed do sometimes loosen up over time, but the alternative crimp clamps tend to be pricey to buy the crimping tools, and would make it harder to replace the water pump or the hose if it fails.

Oh, and don’t worry about the hole not being a perfect rectangle or triangle. Just do what you’re planning – cut the patch to fit – and you’ll be fine. Once you cover it hew flooring, no one will ever know!
Chris
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Old 01-14-2010, 08:13 AM   #17
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Mc,
I had the same problem with the flexible hose connection with mine--the leak was tiny and found it before any damage done. I just replaced the flexible hose and clamps without disturbing the polybutelene and all is good now.
Used 100 PSI water hose (sold by the foot) from Lowe's.

Good luck,
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Old 01-14-2010, 11:05 PM   #18
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well, the time has come. piece is cut, hole is sized and cut. closet flange is fitted and ready for install.

at this point, i worry about the ability of my patch to resist weight. there's the eentsiest space on each side of the patch, and i just can't see wood filler being very strong. i will bolt to the metal cross piece and my makeshift cross piece, but i'm still nervous.

some say you don't even need screws at all, just glue. how is that possible? is that only possible when the patch is shelved to form a sort of a half dovetail like an L all around for the patch to sit in. i could see that being super strong.

regardless, i'm going to screw into my makeshift crossmember and the preexisting rib for reinforcement.
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Old 01-14-2010, 11:12 PM   #19
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also, does wood filler act as a glue when applied in the seams of my patch or does it just fill them?
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Old 01-15-2010, 11:59 AM   #20
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Regular wood filler is just that - a filler, not a glue. If you want to fill the joint and also bind it all together, I'd use an epoxy. Just make sure the bottom of the joint is sealed somehow to keep the epoxy from just running out the bottom and into the belly pan.
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Old 01-17-2010, 01:20 AM   #21
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thanks. all together. gotta replace my toilet water valve unless it's fixable. is it? otherwise, floors are done, leaks fixed. on to the detail work of putting all the screws back and getting the bathroom door to shut

i've got a bunch of pics i'll post when i'm more alive. my knees and back need sleep.
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Old 01-17-2010, 01:55 AM   #22
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the copper crimp rings for pec &qest piping are cheap compared to ss hose clamps and are much stronger. the tool for crimping are a little pricey but are easy to build. 2 pieces of 3/4" square bar stock 4" long and 2 - 3/8" bolts 3" long are all thats required. clamp square bar stock pieces together in vise lined up even and drill holes at either end 1/2" centered in from ea. and install bolts and tighten then drill 11/16 hole in center of divide, presto you now own crimping tool for 1/2" pipe. i have 1 that i left 1 piece 12" long so i have a handle and can use my air ratchet to tighten (speeds the process. but this works fine with a crescent to hold while tightening with a wrench.i often run into situations where my 125.00 bolt cutter style crimper just won't get to ! and this little 1 fits almost everywhere.
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Old 01-17-2010, 02:00 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TankerIP View Post
Not sure about your model. But water can come in from the rear bumper if there is not a good seal under the rub rail. Just a warning.
most common leak point i have found in 40 years of working on airstreams.
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Old 01-17-2010, 09:11 AM   #24
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Quote:
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Regular wood filler is just that - a filler, not a glue. If you want to fill the joint and also bind it all together, I'd use an epoxy. Just make sure the bottom of the joint is sealed somehow to keep the epoxy from just running out the bottom and into the belly pan.
Here's a new type of epoxy I found. Haven't tried it yet but it looks like a great product for a trailer. I have some and will try it soon, then report on how it workes.
Repairs wood in minutes, PolyAll 2000
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Old 01-17-2010, 09:43 AM   #25
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Here's a new type of epoxy I found. Haven't tried it yet but it looks like a great product for a trailer. I have some and will try it soon, then report on how it workes.
Repairs wood in minutes, PolyAll 2000
Looks like could be good as a filler but it is not clear if it works as a penetrating epoxy treatment that actually hardens surrounding wood such as Rot Doctor.
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Old 01-17-2010, 11:38 AM   #26
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Looks like could be good as a filler but it is not clear if it works as a penetrating epoxy treatment that actually hardens surrounding wood such as Rot Doctor.
The samples they had in the store, with rotten wood, showed that it soaked in like water and hardened stronger then the original wood. It also works on cement and steel. There was a sample of 2 pieces of cement stuck together that I couldn't break apart. Also had a piece of metal with fiberglass cloth stuck to it, over a hole. Just as strong as the metal. It's just too good to believe, so I'll try it first.
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