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Old 07-22-2011, 02:28 PM   #15
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1973 31' Sovereign
Columbus , Ohio
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Has anyone used 1.5" X 1.5" X 1/8" angle to make crossmembers? I was planning to use one across the top of the c channel and one across the bottom, with a couple vertical pieces to reduce the deflection of the top piece when walked on. I see outriggers @ $20 ea. I am thinking 14 3/4" 1.5" angle, and a piece of cut and bent 14 ga. steel underneath to complete the profile.
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Old 07-22-2011, 02:47 PM   #16
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1972 31' Sovereign
Wesley chapel , Florida
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For a time example, it took me 6.5 hrs to fit and tack weld everything , 5 hrs to go back and seam weld everything , 1.5 hrs to install / weld axles . 13 hrs fab for a complete towable frame.
If it takes months they are screwing you over.
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Old 07-25-2011, 08:23 PM   #17
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1976 31' Sovereign
Greenwood , South Carolina
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Your telling me, not even a kiss. To top it off the rear crossmember was made too wide , top to bottom, and welded in 1 inch out of place. Then he wouldn't fix it, I had to take it to another welder to do that. Needless to say I was not a happy camper.
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Old 07-26-2011, 06:38 AM   #18
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1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
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Baltimore , Maryland
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I think the best thing you can do is keep his beer cold and stay out of the way. This is not rocket science.
The biggest mistake I think most people make is to make a frame that is too stiff. Most think it needs to be beefed up and that is not what should happen. The frame needs to flex as it goes down the road. Just copy what is there and it will turn out perfect.
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