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Old 09-16-2014, 07:51 PM   #15
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From what I can tell, Airstream has cut corners on construction on the newer trailers to save money. The plastic coated skin is a corrosion problem. There are half the number of rivets as there use to be and the structural connections between the frame and shell are weaker as a result of no hold down plates front and rear. Three is still the issue of the rear bumper plate leak that has been there for 40 yrs. These smaller trailers seem to have the most frame issues that are in the 2007 time frame.

Perry
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Old 09-16-2014, 08:01 PM   #16
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From what I gather on this forum there are a lot of people tightening up their WD WAY TOO MUCH.
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Old 09-16-2014, 09:02 PM   #17
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The tow vehicle should be matched to the Airstream. Here's what your Airstream Owners Manual suggests:

TOW VEHICLE

If you plan to buy a new vehicle to tow your trailer we suggest that you include in your purchase the towing options offered by most tow vehicle manufacturers. These include such things as a heavy-duty alternator and radiator, heavy-duty springs and shock absorbers, transmission cooler, heavy-duty fan and flasher unit and others, depending upon the make of
the vehicle.

NOTICE: Be realistic when ordering heavy duty springs. Only springs heavy enough to support your loaded vehicle (not including trailer) are necessary. Too harsh of spring rate will only shorten the life of the tow vehicle and trailer, and will make your journeys less enjoyable.
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Old 09-16-2014, 09:28 PM   #18
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I don't think there is a need for much weight distribution on a 19 ft trailer pulled by a 3/4 ton truck.

I am more worried about evaluating the frame damage and fixing it. Is the A-frame bent or the frame or is it the connection between the two?

Perry
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Old 09-17-2014, 07:58 AM   #19
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I went and weight my packed work suburban today. Here r the numbers

Total weight of car 7580, allowed 8600
Front 4220, allowed 4180, over 40#
Rear 3360, allowed 5500

I am not overloaded. My only question is where do i go from here with hitch? What do I use?
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Old 09-17-2014, 08:03 AM   #20
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Perhaps swap out your Reese bars for 600#ers. Or a Hensley Cub, if your so inclined. I must admit, I really haven't checked the specs on the cup though. IMO, your Sub is not too much truck; the rear suspension on the 1500 is pretty cushy. Too much WD?
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Old 09-17-2014, 08:09 AM   #21
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I just had a conversation with my RV guy. The frame was bent where connection to trailer frame. New A-frame will be 3/6 tube not c-channel. They feel my 800 bars and reece will be fine with new frame. He felt the old frame was too light for my car setup. ( guess I need a bigger Airstream)

This process is just a real kick to me, totally unexpected since I followed all directions.
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Old 09-17-2014, 08:12 AM   #22
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Do you recall recently going through a deep swell....like a steep driveway entrance of river ford, etc? that might have really flexed the 800# bars excessively?
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Old 09-17-2014, 08:27 AM   #23
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I would use lighter bars and back off the preload a bit.

Perry
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Old 09-17-2014, 08:39 AM   #24
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No, i go same places every year, same roots, same campgrounds, stay in right lane drive 60mph, i travel alone most of time and just play by rules given me. I am going to try and post via my pc today.
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Old 09-17-2014, 10:10 AM   #25
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If the ball socket is bent toward the ground, (which is what my mind pictures right now), then it was done by the WD.

Either the system is binding up, OR it is set up WAY too stiff.

I see a lot of people on this forum trying to do way too much with WD.

It is very possible to lighten the rear axle way too much with the intent of putting a hundred or two hundred pounds on the front axle of a TV that it does not need.

The 800 pound bars are way too much to begin with, and bringing them up to tight makes everything worse.

I have 1000 pound bars on my 31 foot trailer, it is easy for me to take way too much weight off of my rear axle, 800 pound bars on that little trailer are too much.

It takes an incredible amount of leverage to put 100 pounds on the front axle of a TV, this trailer frame was not designed to take that much stress, and the stress is totally not needed.
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Old 09-17-2014, 03:48 PM   #26
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Yes you are correct and this is the very reason I don't use the electric tongue jack to lift the nose of the trailer and rear of the tow vehicle 3 ft in the air to make it easy to over tighten the load bars. If you tighten the bars by hand you get a feel for how much load you are distributing and what it does to the rear of the tow vehicle. Yes if you are an idiot or 80 yrs old you might hurt yourself. I use a piece of black iron pipe about 2 ft long. I don't know what you are supposed to use because it did not come with the trailer.

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From what I gather on this forum there are a lot of people tightening up their WD WAY TOO MUCH.
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Old 09-17-2014, 04:30 PM   #27
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On my Reese hitch, I flip up the bars with a 14" long piece of conduit. I'm on the sixth link on the chain. It's a bang when they go over center, but not too bad.

Tongue jacks can exert a lot of force. All that force is on the shoe of the coupler as it tries to hold onto the ball. Could a guy bend an A-frame member doing this? It would make it easier to change a rear tire on the tow vehicle! : )

I think when Sbb posts a picture of the damage we will better understand. I'm surprised to learn Airstream built a 19' trailer with a 4" C channel for the A-frame members. I can't imagine! I may have miss read a post.

David
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Old 09-17-2014, 04:48 PM   #28
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The Caravelle's where made with 3 inch channel.
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