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Old 03-11-2013, 10:36 PM   #15
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SuperTrouper,
This info is so practical, so hands on!! But brutal in some ways, makes me afraid to continue. But a guy where I store my AS runs a RVrepair business so I see the results of a water damage every week and that keeps me focused.
Thanks for the procedure, I will go around my AS and see how it looks. I am sure many others will benefit from your advice.
Bovk
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:55 PM   #16
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SuperTrouper,
This info is so practical, so hands on!! But brutal in some ways, makes me afraid to continue. But a guy where I store my AS runs a RVrepair business so I see the results of a water damage every week and that keeps me focused.
Thanks for the procedure, I will go around my AS and see how it looks. I am sure many others will benefit from your advice.
Bovk
Bovt,

I hope some of my info helps. I'm not an expert, just diligent (if not stubborn) and guided by the excellent forum members here and some intuition. Brute force, yes, in a previous life I was a stagehand and the end of the day the job had to get done and had to look like it was right (to the audience). I was much better at electrics than carpentry even though the business agent that got me into the business was hoping I'd catch on. I never really did but I do OK and have Trempro and Silkaflex to cover my boo boos. Good luck on your investigations. Here's hoping that when you use the moisture meter that you are high and dry (not in the Mendocino sense). - Brad
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:17 PM   #17
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Nice job Brad. I'm glad we have nice weather so that Cpes can dry thoroughly.

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Old 03-15-2013, 03:02 PM   #18
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SuperTrouper, I installed two deck plates in the belly pan so I am able to inspect under the subfloor in the area around the rear bumper. The deck plates work really well. That was great idea you had. I think I am also going to place a digital hygrometer inside the belly pan behind one of the deck plates. I can then monitor relative humidity inside the belly pan around the rear bumper area. This may give me further information on leaks getting into the belly pan before damage is done.

My AS does not have reflectix insulation under the subfloor like yours. There are only fiberglass bats under the subfloor, laying on the belly pan.
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Old 03-15-2013, 06:49 PM   #19
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Moisture meter with a remote probe....


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Old 03-15-2013, 07:05 PM   #20
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Bob, that's the same one I use. Routine quarterly inspection probing the vinyl revealed a leak below a slightly loose exterior door hinge, and a small leak below right rear pano window. No other way to find them. Airstream Service Center fixed them both, but they were very easy repairs at this early stage.

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Old 03-16-2013, 10:02 PM   #21
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SuperTrouper, I installed two deck plates in the belly pan so I am able to inspect under the subfloor in the area around the rear bumper. The deck plates work really well. That was great idea you had. I think I am also going to place a digital hygrometer inside the belly pan behind one of the deck plates. I can then monitor relative humidity inside the belly pan around the rear bumper area. This may give me further information on leaks getting into the belly pan before damage is done.

My AS does not have reflectix insulation under the subfloor like yours. There are only fiberglass bats under the subfloor, laying on the belly pan.
Hi Ridgerunner,

Glad my idea made sense to you. I was going to add a few cowl vents as well but I think the moisture coming up from the earth in the evenings make this a bad idea. A sealable inspection port made more sense. We'll see if the extra weight is hard on the fasteners on the belly pan. I think it'll be fine.

Here's hoping for dry floors for all!

Brad
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:46 AM   #22
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Hi Ridgerunner,

Glad my idea made sense to you. I was going to add a few cowl vents as well but I think the moisture coming up from the earth in the evenings make this a bad idea. A sealable inspection port made more sense. We'll see if the extra weight is hard on the fasteners on the belly pan. I think it'll be fine.

Here's hoping for dry floors for all!

Brad
The deck plates weigh so little I don't believe the added weight will be a problem. I agree on your decision to not install cowl vents.

I am fairly obsessive about monitoring and maintaining my trailer. The deck plates add one more very effective tool for monitoring my trailers health.

The floor area around the perimeter of the rear of my trailer looked healthy. In history I had a leak problem with my rear bumper seal leaking on my trailer. The fix was to remove the rubrail and seal the bumper seam with tempro.

Relative humidity inside the belly pan was 45% (trailer cabin was 47%). I think (may be a wrong assumption) any long term dampness of the bottom of the subfloor would cause a general increase in relative humidity in the belly pan.
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:11 PM   #23
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Started to use the moisture meter!

I finally got the meter and checked the area around the rear bumper and on both sides of the doors. So far i am reading 12%+-, dry lumber reads 8%, outside table in the campground (looked dry) read 35%. More spots to check to establish the reference points.

Thanks to all in this thread, when it started I did not know that these moisture meters exist!
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:21 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Ridgerunner3 View Post
The deck plates weigh so little I don't believe the added weight will be a problem. I agree on your decision to not install cowl vents.

I am fairly obsessive about monitoring and maintaining my trailer. The deck plates add one more very effective tool for monitoring my trailers health.

The floor area around the perimeter of the rear of my trailer looked healthy. In history I had a leak problem with my rear bumper seal leaking on my trailer. The fix was to remove the rubrail and seal the bumper seam with tempro.

Relative humidity inside the belly pan was 45% (trailer cabin was 47%). I think (may be a wrong assumption) any long term dampness of the bottom of the subfloor would cause a general increase in relative humidity in the belly pan.
I think the deck plates are good for drying the pan (leaving them open in dry weather, and for checking a large water accumulation).
Checking the humidity may not be reliable. The diffusion of gasses in the air is quite fast so once you have the plates open the moisture will equalize with outside quickly. Small patches of moist floor may not effect the pan humidity. This is not a critique of the plates idea, it is good to be able to check this space.
Thanks for your posts!
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:46 PM   #25
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You are correct about the value of measuring relative humidity with an open deck plate. One of my deck plates is clear. I leave the humidity monitor inside the closed up belly pan while the trailer is parked. I can read the humidity monitor through the clear deck plate. I am also able to inspect for any sign of moisture along the rear bumper under the sub floor.

I'll post a picture of my deck plate setup later.
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Old 03-25-2013, 02:16 PM   #26
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Deck Plate Photos

These are pictures of the deck plates I have installed near the rear number.
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Old 03-25-2013, 03:18 PM   #27
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I finally got the meter and checked the area around the rear bumper and on both sides of the doors. So far i am reading 12%+-, dry lumber reads 8%, outside table in the campground (looked dry) read 35%. More spots to check to establish the reference points.

Thanks to all in this thread, when it started I did not know that these moisture meters exist!
Hi, my Sonan meter reads no moisture except where I had two different leaks, under rear pano curbside and under loose door hinge. The closer to the outside wall, the higher the reading was. Easily fixed both leaks. This was in dry Minnesota weather and now in very dry Arizona.

Poke around well away from exterior wall from to get some references. I would think it ought to be uniformly dry throughout the floor if there are no leaks.

doug k
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Old 03-25-2013, 04:05 PM   #28
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I drilled about 20 small (half-inch diameter) holes in the bellypan, and used a flexible fiberscope to inspect the vulnerable parts of the frame. This also showed up any areas of water staining on the floor material.
Entry Level Portable Flexible Fiberscope
Any areas showing signs of corrosion I sprayed with rust treatment fluid. The holes were blanked off with plastic plugs.
I also cut about eight inspection hatches, about 4" x 3", in the belly pan to spray larger areas, and later covered these holes with aluminum plates and self-tapping stainless screws.
I also sprayed the inside of the longitudinal box sections with fluid, using a 25 foot long wand, a spray head on a tiny chariot, and a compressor.
Nick.
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