How much POR-15 for the Frame?

JeepinAudiophile · 07-31-2004, 11:15 AM

I have a 24' Tradewind, C-channel... Most of the frame is in good shape, but i plan to wire wheel parts of it, soime minor sand-blasting, and clear the origingal paint off the rest to get the whole frame. Anyone have any idea on how much POR-15 I would need per coat for the frame? Any thoughts...Guessing or educated answers are welcome. I have never used it at all and have no idea as to application. Thank You.

JeepinAudiophile · 07-31-2004, 11:21 AM

I should add, not that it's obvious or anything...lol- The shell is off the frame for restoration...i'll put up a few pics for reference.

yukionna · 07-31-2004, 11:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeepinAudiophile

Anyone have any idea on how much POR-15 I would need per coat for the frame? .

Chad...you can easily calculate how much you need once you figure out the square footage by going to the POR-15 website.

JeepinAudiophile · 07-31-2004, 12:02 PM

ahh, i didn't know they had application stuff on the site... it looks like we're goign to try and get by with 1 Gallon for the 2 coats on the frame. Then i'll just get a quart of top coat to do the hitch and bumper. Thanks Nancy. --Chad--

markdoane · 07-31-2004, 12:18 PM

As I recall, about 3 quarts for the first coat and half as much for the second. Depends on how thick you apply it. I would order three quarts to start, you can always order more. Also, ask them if they have a local distributor, in case you need to buy a little more to finish the job. Good on-line service. Be sure to get the 'Marine Clean' and 'Metal Ready' for prep work. I have a few spots that peeled where I put it on "new" metal.

74Argosy24MH · 07-31-2004, 12:31 PM

I would also go for quarts. A little goes a long way and you can't return any left over to the can, don't work out of the can. When resealing either make sure the rim is immaculate or use plastic wrap under the lid, it is more like glue than paint.

John

JeepinAudiophile · 07-31-2004, 01:12 PM

I think i'm going to pick up the gallon(4 quarts) then pick up one of those easy-pour tops for paint that they sell at Home Depot... that should make it easy to use with out making a mess, only pouring out a small amount at a time, and keeps the lid free of being "glued" down, because it is never used to pour, until the end when you need to scrape the can with the brush. Now the problem is that i'm not sure how much "Metal Ready" to use...i'm looking on the site for info as i write this...

**CanoeStream** · 07-31-2004, 01:29 PM

The store where I bought my POR-15 advised the plastic wrap trick, then inverting the can so the skin forms down in the can. I'll be trying this in the next few weeks but would ask other users how they think this would help...??

markdoane · 07-31-2004, 01:53 PM

I don't know about the inverted can trick. I wouldn't want a skin forming in the bottom of the can. But i don't think a skin would form anyway. The plastic wrap trick works good. I pour out a few ounces at a time into a specimen cup, then use out of that. Seals ok for overnight or a week.
I believe the 'perspiration' warning, one drop off sweat ruined a cup that I was using. fortunately it only had an ounce in it. Next day it was gelled.
Be very cautious opening the cans. The ones I got had the lid pressed on so tight it was difficult to take the lid off without bending the can and the lid. Then you're in trouble with or without the plastic wrap.
You need only a small bottle of the 'metal ready' unless you have a large amount of new steel. You don't need it on rusted or aged steel.
I don't use the HD easy pour spouts. I tried those on a gallon of latex wall paint and it didn't work. Sprang off at the worst possible moment.

JeepinAudiophile · 07-31-2004, 02:26 PM

Well, that's good to know... Are you sure that it was pounded on tightly, or was that questionable also?

markdoane · 07-31-2004, 07:05 PM

It seemed to 'snap' over the bead when I put it on. The other problem was-how do you take it off to put the lid back on? You have to snap it off, and now you have paint all over your hands.
Didn't seem to be worth the effort. Usually I can tip a bucket of paint so that none drips down the side. It's all in the wrist.
Another trick that I learned in auto body painting school-take a awl and punch a couple of holes in the bottom of the groove that the lid fits in. It lets the paint drip back into the can, and provides relief when you pound the lid back on.

pinkflamingoes · 07-31-2004, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeepinAudiophile

I have a 24' Tradewind, C-channel... Most of the frame is in good shape, but i plan to wire wheel parts of it, soime minor sand-blasting, and clear the origingal paint off the rest to get the whole frame. Anyone have any idea on how much POR-15 I would need per coat for the frame? Any thoughts...Guessing or educated answers are welcome. I have never used it at all and have no idea as to application. Thank You.

Hi there...sorry if this is useless to you as far as POR-15 goes, but it looks like we'll be doing the exact thing to our 67 24' TW frame; I would really be grateful if you posted pix of your progress. Ours seems to be in OK shape too just like yours. I'll be watching! I may be asking you for advice. I"ll be checking out your gallery too.

Good luck!

pinkflamingoes

JeepinAudiophile · 07-31-2004, 11:24 PM

Well, I don't think there will be any problem with pictures... I already have 500 pictures of the process to date, I try to keep a good record of everything that we do. Take a look in my member profiles, i have a few pictures of the frame in there already. Tonight, we welded up the frame to enclose one of my tanks- i will take pictures of that tomorrow, the camera batteries died.