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Old 01-16-2012, 04:37 PM   #15
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well it seems to be a little contradiction on this subject.
But isn't the 2 stage automotive paint kind of the same of the topcoat from POR15?
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Old 01-16-2012, 05:16 PM   #16
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I used One-Stage Top Coat, but...

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Guess I will be fixing it for free in 2-4 years. Was this two stage you used or a one stage paint?
I'm not it makes a difference whether it's one-stage or two.
The surface of POR-15 has no porosity.
According to POR-15 customer relations, paints cannot bond unless you use a POR-15 topcoat, or rough it up with course paper first.

I was pretty smug until my paint flaked off.
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Old 01-16-2012, 05:31 PM   #17
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I think, I too will stand smug.(many think I always do, so why not)
If my work fails, I will fix it at no charge just like I always have. Just out of curiosity, when one layers primers, paints, or even POR15 is it not normal operating procedure to sand between each and every coat? Two stage automotive finishes dry so hard that if you do not the layers will never bond. Perhaps POR 15 works the same way.
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Old 01-16-2012, 06:38 PM   #18
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Too Purty to Scuff

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I think, I too will stand smug.(many think I always do, so why not)
If my work fails, I will fix it at no charge just like I always have. Just out of curiosity, when one layers primers, paints, or even POR15 is it not normal operating procedure to sand between each and every coat? Two stage automotive finishes dry so hard that if you do not the layers will never bond. Perhaps POR 15 works the same way.
Excellent plan.
For some reason, you do not have to sand between coats of POR-15.
POR bonds with POR.
If you scuffed the POR before you applied the two-stage, automotive top coat, you should be okay.
It was so purty, I couldn't stand to scuff it.
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Old 01-16-2012, 07:56 PM   #19
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Ken , I agree with everything you said but want to add if you wait more than 48 hours between coats of POR 15 they will not bond to each other. Don't ask me how I know that...
I really think the key is to do the second coat before the POR 15 has time to fully cure, which is less than 24 hours. If sprayed the POR 15 can be scuffed in under two hours time. I think it key to spray the top coat before the POR 15 has set fully also. These are just my thoughts and not what the manufacturer recommends per say.
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Old 01-17-2012, 09:17 AM   #20
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Concur with your observations. Actually your 48-hour-between-coats, bonding failure is consistent with POR-15 literature. I believe they recommend recoating sooner, especially when its humid.
That's another POR paradox; it cures faster the higher the humidity.
Out in NM I have more time between coats than you do in MD.
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Old 01-17-2012, 12:47 PM   #21
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The POR is glassy - rock hard and glassy - anything including itself put on it w/o prior preperation bounces off, just some s l o w e r than others

The POR recommendation is scuff cured surface with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. I was thinking 400 was too fine until I tried it, then presto - a huge amount of superfine dust about like confectioners sugar yet when that cured paint was tack-rag wiped only minimal scuffing was seen. And that was for just applying 3M 5200 sealant/adhesive, probably some of the stickiest stuff there is. (I hope it works, I hope it works, I hope it works..)
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Old 01-17-2012, 03:49 PM   #22
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If all the second coat is doing it getting all the nooks and crannies that you missed with the first coat then who cares if the redundant coating comes off. This is if it is in some dark dank place under the skins that you don't care what it looks like as long as it does not rust.

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Old 01-17-2012, 04:41 PM   #23
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who cares if the redundant coating comes off. This is if it is in some dark dank place under the skins that you don't care what it looks like as long as it does not rust.

Perry
That is surely one approach to Airstream restoration, who cares...

I was once an apprentice cabinet maker. My Sensei told me if you don't have time to do it right the first time what makes you think you have time to do it over. Mr Fitzgerald taught me many things. He is a very wise man.
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Old 01-17-2012, 05:40 PM   #24
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The purpose of it is to seal off rust. If you want it to look nice overcoat with real paint. If the sunlight gets to it then it will chalk. I am very anal about most things but just to make a point why does it matter if it looks like a Corvet if it is hidden. Also I don't understand why folks bother stripping and polishing the inside of the outside skin. There are plenty of things that really need attention on an Airstream without being much a do about nothing. I believe in making it better than it was from the factory. Making it look like a show car under the skins makes no sense to me. On the parts that you can see, I will POR15 then sand and paint will real paint like Koropon primer then whatever top coat I want. I am not suggesting you should do a crappy job.

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Old 01-17-2012, 05:51 PM   #25
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... please show me someone who has polished the inside of the outer skin? I want to personally mock them. I think you are confusing it with polishing the inner skin. Why do people do it? Because in small amounts it looks totally awesome. This hold very true for the 13 panel interior end caps.
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Old 01-17-2012, 05:53 PM   #26
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I have seen threads on here where folks strip all the old brown stuff off and polish the inside of the outside skin. I have seen the inner skins polished and that looks cool but the ones covered in wood are really cool.

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Old 01-18-2012, 01:42 PM   #27
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So.
just double checking...If we want to paint the tongue in a matching color with the truck what so you guys recommend?...
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Old 01-19-2012, 06:50 PM   #28
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sorry to hear that, Frank. That frame is gorgeous! So jealous.
BTW can por be topcoated effectively with anything else besides their products?
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