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Old 05-29-2012, 07:18 PM   #15
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I have used the rust converter and it is something like phosphoric acid mixed with elmers glue. I have used it and it does not last as long as POR15. It is not totally water proof and when it gets wet it turns into a white jelly again. Painting over it may help but the POR15 loves water. It is cured by water. It is expensive and messy but it works. Solvents won't bother POR15 either. In fact, they use it to coat the inside of gas tanks.

Perry
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Old 05-29-2012, 09:51 PM   #16
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To POR or not to POR. Either way I say get as much rust off as possible, it's best to start with a clean slate . People swear by POR and I'm sure it's great but if you don't want to spend that much then use rust converter then prime then paint and then I would suggest a spray bedliner coat. It's pretty good stuff and plenty tough.
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Old 05-30-2012, 10:46 AM   #17
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Grounds

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Originally Posted by wahoonc View Post
Interesting...I would have to assume it is factory. However the ground wire on my 1975 and my 1981 are both to the frame.

Aaron
It is indeed factory. And I think its purpose is to ground the propane line itself, to prevent static sparks between the line and the frame.

the ground for the battery is at the very front of the box part of the frame, just behind the where the A meets it.
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Old 05-30-2012, 10:57 AM   #18
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RE: POR or not to POR

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Originally Posted by Eric H View Post
To POR or not to POR. Either way I say get as much rust off as possible, it's best to start with a clean slate . People swear by POR and I'm sure it's great but if you don't want to spend that much then use rust converter then prime then paint and then I would suggest a spray bedliner coat. It's pretty good stuff and plenty tough.
way i look at it, doing this is a major PITA, i'm already buying a bunch of tools to do it right, so some bucks for the best "paint" or whatever it is i can get is well worth it. especially if it means i wont' have to do it again for a long time!

but, i'm confused about the product. do I just buy the "rust preventive paint", or do I also need this "chassis coat" stuff? and will i need the "marine clean" stuff, if i'm shooting for the best rust grainding prep i can do? and what's the likely amount needed? this is just a 16-foot trailer. at 35 bucks a quart, i'd sure like to avoid getting too much.

THANKS!
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Old 05-30-2012, 08:47 PM   #19
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I would think a couple quarts of POR 15 will be enough. If you are going to coat areas that are not rusted it might be a good idea to rough up the surface. POR15 is not made to put on smooth surfaces. It loves nooks and crannies. You could put POR15 on the really rusted sections and more conventional paint in other areas although it is hard to beat the toughness of the POR15. Any area exposed to sun needs to have a top coat of paint on it. It will chaulk under UV exposure. I put some on my badly rusted frame last fall and it still looks like new.

Perry
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Old 05-30-2012, 09:30 PM   #20
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Hi Toasty's Dad,
I've used Por-15 on two frames. It's really great stuff. You have to prep the metal by wire brushing loose metal. Since you have paint on your frame, you have to use metal ready to etch the paint. Then you have to use marine clean to remove any grease that may be on the frame. It's worth taking all the steps....no use in skipping one and having your paint job fail. This is the thread of my belly pan replacement as well as the frame painting with por-15 .... don't forget the gloves! http://www.airforums.com/forums/f476...pan-58333.html
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Old 06-10-2012, 09:41 AM   #21
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OK, next stage of the problem...

I've drilled out the rivets on the rear section of the belly pan, taken it down as much as I can, and wow, what a mess. More about that in a later post.

My immediate problem is that I can't figure out how to REMOVE the !@#!!@# belly pan entirely, and I'm hoping somebody understands the anatomy of the AS butt better than I.

The belly pan was held by rivets on three sides, simple. The fourth side is part of a 4 layer sandwich: The bottom layer is a galvanized box which seems to hide and protect plumbing. It's attached to an iron flange, a long piece of angle. The front edge of the belly pan sits between this flange and the frame's crossmember. There seem to be bolts, bolts/nuts, and even rivets holding this sandwich together. And some caulk here and there.


------------------------| <---- frame
----------------------------------------------------------------- <---belly pan ---------------------------------------
------------------------- <--- flange
----------------------| <--- galvanized box
|

I can't figure out if the belly pan is just held in the sandwich by friction, or if some/all of the bolts/rivets go through it. I'm loathe to just start taking it all apart, cause it looks like Pandora's freakin box - once I start, I'll end up with the entire trailer in pieces on my driveway.

What's the secret here? Cut the bellypan? Disassemble the wicked assembly?

THANKS!
jon
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Old 06-10-2012, 10:03 AM   #22
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Quote:
Pandora's freakin box - once I start, I'll end up with the entire trailer in pieces on my driveway.
There is a finite number of fasteners. Go for it!

I know near zero about newer Airstreams, but I have seen several of Pandoras' trailers. All I can do here is assure you here will be many more places to compromise the deeper one goes, so think of it as a 'buy one, get one free' shopping opportunity & go for it. I see enough fresh damage you should not flinch now you're on the front lines of saving a worthy trailer!
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Old 06-10-2012, 01:41 PM   #23
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My '86 had the same type of set up by the galvinized boxes. I removed the screws with the hex heads & tried to get the belly pan slipped out from there.......it didn't budge. It was held in with some really tuff black goo. I cut the pan off right along side of the frame there & when I replaced it, I covered over the small piece that was left & riveted it back on to that section of frame.
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Old 06-11-2012, 02:34 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beckybillrae View Post
My '86 had the same type of set up by the galvinized boxes. I removed the screws with the hex heads & tried to get the belly pan slipped out from there.......it didn't budge. It was held in with some really tuff black goo. I cut the pan off right along side of the frame there & when I replaced it, I covered over the small piece that was left & riveted it back on to that section of frame.
Yup, that's the new plan. Tried to remove one of the bolts between the flange and the frame crossbar (the ones whose nuts tack-welded on). SNAP! Definitely not in the mood for 3 more of those. Be enuff fun just trying to drill this one out without wrecking the nut.

So cut it is.

THANKS for the info, and the "Terrified of the bellypan! thread". Most helpful and entertaining.

Jon
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:01 PM   #25
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The way I did it was just cut the belly pan where it went under any bars. There was too much rust on the bolts to deal with them. I just cut out all the old steel and the bars and replaced them with new ones.
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:36 PM   #26
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Try Plasti Kote Rust Converter

This product was recommended to me by a sailor From Salt Lake City who sails his boat in the Great Salt Lake. He used it to coat his Cast iron Swing Keel. It is available form auto supply stores in small quantities.

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Old 06-14-2012, 06:47 AM   #27
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I am about to start the same project on my 99 Bambi 19. Does anyone know what kind of paint to use on the frame once it is ready? Factory color? After market? Anything that will last longer? Thanks for the info!
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Old 06-14-2012, 09:42 AM   #28
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I am about to start the same project on my 99 Bambi 19. Does anyone know what kind of paint to use on the frame once it is ready? Factory color? After market? Anything that will last longer? Thanks for the info!
Por15 is the stuff you want to use. you can paint it right on the rust, it then kills it and you can't chip it with a hammer when hardened. But don't get it on you skin. It doesn't come off. I sprayed my yesterday and know have a shade of black on my hands. And I tried everything to get it off. And I mean everything. See here
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...ml#post1161074
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