I've been trying to devise a system to spray corrosion prevention fluid inside the long frame box sections. I contacted the company that supplies the spray gun and fluid to JC Whitney. The company is Tri-Con, LLC 27331 Tungsten Road, Euclid, OH 44132, tel. 216 261 3400. I spoke to the owner, Mr John O'Brien, who was extremely helpful. He said that the model 9000 siphon gun supplied via JC Whitney is ideal for the thicker fluid for the outside of the frame, but that the inner cavities require a fine mist of a thinner fluid, supplied via an air pressure gun. He is supplying me with the Tri-Con model 1800 pressure sprayer, with a 24 foot long 3/8ths of an inch diameter (approx.) steel tube to slide into the long box sections. I chose the length to fit my trailer. The tube will comprise six 4 foot lengths which screw together. This was at my request, for ease of handling and transport. At the end of the tube will be the company's 360 degree misting attachment. I guess the total cost will be about $180. The company has previously supplied this set-up for spraying inside aircraft wings. The company' s website page for the 1800 sprayer is at http://www.triconsprayers.com/viscous.html
For the fluid, as recommended by Mr O'Brien, I went to www.eastwood.com, and ordered 2 quarts of Heavy Duty Anti Rust, part# 16017ZP, for a total of $37 inclusive.
I will need to make a spacer, perhaps a wooden block, taped to the misting attachment, so that the attachment rests on it, and sits centrally in the box section. I will be using a 1 H.P compressor.
The job will have to wait until November, when I am next back in the USA with the trailer.
Nick.
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Nick Crowhurst, Excella 25 1988, Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel. England in summer, USA in winter.
"The price of freedom is eternal maintenance."
Nick, thanks for the offer of the fibrescope. I worked for Land Rover North America for a number of years, and got some training at the factory in the U.K. I think one of the reasons that I'm so attracted to Airstreams is because like Land Rovers, they're aluminum and held together with rivets. When it comes to the frame, because they are insulated and sealed with the belly pan, they should be treated in some way from the manufacturer. I for one would like to see them galvanized. Then the frames would last as long as the body. That was the one weakness with LandRovers, the frame would rot out long before the body. Sorry about the bad scan.
How to keep a tube in the center of the box sections?
I'm getting ready for the end of November, when I aim to return to my trailer and carry out the spraying of rust prevention fluid both inside and outside the frame box sections as described earlier in this thread. The thinner fluid for the inside of the box sections requires 80 psi at 4.5 cfm, so I've ordered an 8 gallon 120 psi, 5.6 cfm 120 volt compressor from Harbor Freight for $100, part # 90385. I need to slide 24 feet of thin (quarter inch diameter) steel tube down the main frame rails. At the end of the tube, the spray nozzle is the same diameter. I wish to keep the nozzle in the center of the box section to provide an even spray pattern, rather than let it rub along the rusty bottom. My initial thought is to tape the end of the tube to a smooth block of wood with rounded corners to prevent snagging. If anything was to jam, I would aim that the tube pulled away from the tube and the wooden block as a failsafe.
Could a kind forum member please post the inside dimensions of the main frame members on a late eighties Airstream, so that I can fashion a gadget?
Also, has anyone any better ideas for keeping the nozzle centralized? Perhaps two Meccano wheels on an axle with the tube resting on the axle and taped to it? Thanks.
Nick.
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Nick Crowhurst, Excella 25 1988, Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel. England in summer, USA in winter.
"The price of freedom is eternal maintenance."
All this talk about the interior rusting is getting me nervous about buying an older Airstream. YIKES! I was thinking to buy a 70's or early 80's model.
Eddieboy, welcome to the forum. Your nervousness is well justified. My trailer's frame is in comparatively good condition solely because I was lucky. I had no knowledge of Airstreams when I bought it. You are in a much stronger position to make a sensible choice now you have started to explore this forum. A few hours using the search facility at the top of the screen will pay dividends.
Nick.
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Nick Crowhurst, Excella 25 1988, Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel. England in summer, USA in winter.
"The price of freedom is eternal maintenance."
"I wish to keep the nozzle in the center of the box section to provide an even spray pattern, rather than let it rub along the rusty bottom. "
Wire ties, just use 4 wire ties set 90 degrees to each other, cut them to fit the shape and shove away. You can wrap them with tape to keep them lined up. The nylon will keep things centered and be flexible enough to not get stuck.
Vapor barriers are to be installed next to the "conditioned' air side only, not towards the heat. Good insulation will keep hot moist airflow away from the barrier where it could condense from living space air conditioning, and the insulation will allow the barrier to be at room temperature when the outside air is cool enough to cause condensation from living area high humidity....
Vapor barriers are to be installed next to the "conditioned' air side only, not towards the heat. Good insulation will keep hot moist airflow away from the barrier where it could condense from living space air conditioning, and the insulation will allow the barrier to be at room temperature when the outside air is cool enough to cause condensation from living area high humidity....
Wire ties, just use 4 wire ties set 90 degrees to each other, cut them to fit the shape and shove away. You can wrap them with tape to keep them lined up. The nylon will keep things centered and be flexible enough to not get stuck.
Dave, thanks for that idea. I'll try it out next month. Nick.
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Nick Crowhurst, Excella 25 1988, Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel. England in summer, USA in winter.
"The price of freedom is eternal maintenance."
Artstream, in the middle of post #14 was something needing clarifacation... " To prevent this condensation, a complete vapor barrier is required on the hot side of..." So let's change the terminology from "hot' to 'conditioned' airspace for accuracies sake. A vapor barrier misinstalled is a terrible liability to any structure!
Regarding the vapor barrier/ condensation subthread here:
Would it NOT be a good idea, then, to replace the fiberglass in the belly, or walls for that matter, with a closed cell foam product to increase the R value?
I had a bad rust problem with my 1986 Sovereign mostly related to the frame and crossmembers. I contacted Gary at RV Restoration in Dalton, GA. Really glad I did. He took off the belly pan, removed the worst of the rust, replaced any crossmembers or frame parts that were damaged and then painted the frame with POR-15. He also replaced all the insulation with 4X8 closed cell panel insulation. He then finished the job by replacing and oxidized aluminum under belly panels and sealed it up. Some point soon, I will put vents in to reduce condensation (as someone as suggested) and maybe rust proof the inside of the box frame.
The job was extensive and well done. He even posts pictures of the work daily as he progresses. This is a link to all the pictures. New Page 1 I didn't have time to do the work, so I needed someone I could trust. Gary listened to all the recommendations posted on this forum and then did a fabulous job. I am convinced by Airstream will last another 20 years due to his efforts.
Despite the problems I have had with my 1986, I had a 2004 that was already rusting coming out of the dealer. This is just an issue every Airstream will have to work with until the factory changes the manufacturing process.
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Chris Keysor
WBCCI 11067
1986 Sovereign 25' CB
2007 Chevy Silverado 1500
2007 Toyota Land Cruiser
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