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Old 06-15-2004, 01:31 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by Ken J
And as I've been following this over the years, I have understood that you should not put a seam over a cross member.

.

and yet, as evidenced in the photo I posted above, this is exactly the way Airstream did it. again, that x-member is 4 3/8 inches tall, while the one on the right is 5". every 4 feet along the frame, the x-member is short like this, to allow a 5/8 reinforcement to join the seams on 2 sheets of plywood...and the joint is directly over a x-member.

I don't know how this could be considered "wrong", or weaker in any stretch of the imagination, unless you're comparing it to an 8' x 24' single sheet of ply...and I don't think they make 'em that big. Think of the way houses are built. joists, 16" on center...all plywood seams *must* be over a joist, on all edges. No building inspector would sign it off otherwise. and if you need to cut a hole for some reason, headers must be installed for the repair, or joists must be "sistered", so that no edge or splice is unsupported....no glued n screwed splices allowed. In the pic above, the "joist" (cross member) supports the splice, which eliminates any weakness, and replaces it with added strength.
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Old 06-15-2004, 01:40 PM   #72
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Generations

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I have come to the conclusion that we are talking about three different generations of A/S's. Don's and mine are late 50's early 60's, no added support at the seams, just bolted to the crossmembers. Yours and Ken's are 70's vintage evidently with reinforced seams and Joes is 80's vintage evidently with no seams, single sheet layed over entire frame. This could be the cause for the debate on different joining methods if I'm correct.
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Old 06-15-2004, 01:43 PM   #73
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Chuck,

I'm just curous since I have a 70's trailer. I understand the crossmember is lower to allow for the overlapping plywood. But on the top, how does that work w/o having an uneven joint?
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Old 06-15-2004, 01:43 PM   #74
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doh! I think I see the error of my ways...you're talking about the frame members..the main 5" c-channel that runs the length of the trailer, not the cross members. right?

in that case...yeah. I agree.

nevermind.

however, I think it could depend on exactly where the seam is in relation to any outriggers in the vicinity. I'm sure there's a formula...x thickness of plywood can span y distance with z amount of support on n sides....that sort of thing.
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Old 06-15-2004, 02:09 PM   #75
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Chuck,

I'm just curous since I have a 70's trailer. I understand the crossmember is lower to allow for the overlapping plywood. But on the top, how does that work w/o having an uneven joint?

a picture is worth a thousand words....(it made me type something )
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Old 06-15-2004, 02:19 PM   #76
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Ahh....

Thanks!
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Old 06-15-2004, 02:24 PM   #77
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Thats it - I would think that would work - to me thats not a seam over a cross member because the 5/8" piece in essence make it one piece.

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Old 06-15-2004, 02:37 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight
Chuck
I have come to the conclusion that we are talking about three different generations of A/S's. ......80's vintage evidently with no seams, single sheet layed over entire frame.
The '87 345 floor is a single piece of OSB - no seams (that I remember).

I had the whole thing exposed when I installed the Pergo flooring last year.
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Old 06-15-2004, 03:07 PM   #79
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In the end, I think everyone is going to use the method that makes the most sense to them. After Ken's discussion with the engineer, I'm going to go with a 8" backup splice, glued and screwed. I like that it means I only need to make half as many seams over the crossmembers.
I'm also going to offset the center seam 4" to one side, alternating from one side to the other. That way I can make fewer cuts, and leave the existing center angle in place.
I noticed that this method requires less total length of 'seam' compared to the original. With the center seam added in, the total seam length is 332", compared to 400" using the original method.
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Old 06-15-2004, 11:18 PM   #80
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Finally feel like I'm getting somewhere. Over the last few days I've done the following:
1. Removed the lower beltline so that I could jack up the "U" channel in the rear about a 1/4" and squirt a bead of Vulkem under there. This is the section of the "U" channel that sits right above the rear trailer box. This is where my main "remaining" leak was coming from.
2. Removed banawrap on drivers side rear corner so that I could get at the new floor and install additional carriage bolts without having to notch that section of flooring when sliding it in the "U" channel. Haven't put floor in for good yet though. Still diagnosing and fixing leaks.
3. Removed another section of inner sking under rear drivers side window. Diagnosed leak. Water was coming from two places. Rivet line where skin overlapped and a leaky rivet holding center beltline to trailer. All have had a liberal coating of Vulkem applied. That piece of inner skin has been reattached.
4. While removing the lower beltline had to remove a rather thick bead of caulking that one of the dealerships had applied to it and the rear box before I could jack up the "U" channel. This in turn resulted in having to scrape it and some paint off of the rear box, requiring me to sand, prime and repaint part of my rear tool box. Good thing I had some Airstream metallic grey sitting around.

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Old 06-16-2004, 10:05 AM   #81
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Are you planning to have 1 8in backup splice down the center - alternating seams? I'm not sure I understand your comment about fewer cuts with an alternating seams?

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Old 06-16-2004, 10:44 AM   #82
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Ooops - wasn't thinking - can't just have 1 spice going down the middle, never mind on that one, what your doing sounds like a great plan.

Still not sure I understand how alternating seams will result in fewer cuts.

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Old 06-16-2004, 11:12 AM   #83
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Still not sure I understand how alternating seams will result in fewer cuts.

Ken
Go back one step, to where you cut the plywood to width. If one side is 48", the other side needs to be cut to 40". If the seam is in the center, you need to cut both pieces 44". You also end up with one scrap piece 8" wide, instead of two 4" wide. Good for making the splice.

Note: this only works in old trailers 88" wide.
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Old 06-16-2004, 11:33 AM   #84
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Don

Got it - - - good thinking! I was thinking fewer cuts meant fewer seams.

Thanks

Ken
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