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Old 06-11-2004, 12:34 AM   #15
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Be sure and get the instructions from inland on installing those vent gaskets. I ended up doing mine twice because they still leaked after I installed them.

If he didn't sell you a tube of vulkem, your going to need one.
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Old 06-11-2004, 08:04 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight
You might look for more damage, the 5/8 OSB should fit into channel. Can you see frame crossmember or outrigger when you cleaned out trash from previuos repair to see if it is sagging or rusted. Just a thought.
Yes I can see the frame crossmembers and they all look solid as a rock, still have the black factory paint on them. Thank God!!!!

I didn't purchase 5/8 OSB as a replacement....I purchased 5/8 A-C grade exterior plywood. It is manufactured using waterproof glue with a minimum of imperfections. I plan to use a router to get it to the proper thickness along the first two inches of the edge that fit into the channel once I've cut it to fit. I just need to remove about an 1/8 of an inch along all exterior edges so that it looks and fits like the factory floor. Additionally I've found that I can easily get to the carriage bolts around the rear of the the trailer. They are accessible through my rear box on the trailer...the one that holds my power cord. Removing and replacing the carriage bolts means I don't have to notch the plywood when trying to slide it in. Joe
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Old 06-11-2004, 08:06 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
Be sure and get the instructions from inland on installing those vent gaskets. I ended up doing mine twice because they still leaked after I installed them.

If he didn't sell you a tube of vulkem, your going to need one.
Does someone have the instructions or a link to a thread on the forum for installing the gaskets? I'd like to learn from someone's elses mistake and do it right the first time! Joe
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Old 06-11-2004, 10:46 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barkingspider
Does someone have the instructions or a link to a thread on the forum for installing the gaskets? I'd like to learn from someone's elses mistake and do it right the first time! Joe
Old post....

http://www.airforums.com/forum...ructions+basic.
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Old 06-12-2004, 12:41 AM   #19
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Thanks Bobby!!! Sounds simple based on the link you attached. Joe
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Old 06-12-2004, 01:01 AM   #20
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North Dallas RV is refunding my money. Talked to Randy today and he told me the check was in the mail.

Also, I talked to Airstream about this whole issue today. I spoke with Joe Williams (Customer Service Manager, been there for 3 weeks) and he sounded as shocked as I was regarding all the problems I've had with two dealers. He told me the most important thing was that I get this resolved and my trailer back on the road as soon as possible. I agreed. He also told me he was going to talk with his manager right after the call to see what could be done. Said it might be kind of hard to get my trailer up to the factory but maybe they could work out getting my trailer to a "reputable" dealer in Texas somewhere.

After the call I sent him an email detailing everything that has happened (basically the first post in this thread) and the same pictures that I have attached in this thread. Thought that might really get their attention. Later this afternoon I get an email back from him stating the following: (I have not edited it at all, this is a direct quote that I copied and pasted)

"Joe,
I am really sorry to hear about your problems. I know that you want to get your trailer back up and running. We recommend you to go back to North Dallas RV. and work with them to solve the problems you have. I hope this work this out for you.

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Joe Williams
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Customer Service Manager"


Well I was expecting a little more than that. I had a 30 minute call with this guy and he kept asking me to repeat things so that he could take notes. Really sounded like he was going to take care of the situation. I've sent him an email back letting him know this will not do. Why would I want to drive a 400 mile round trip to drop the trailer off again and then drive another 400 mile round trip to pick it up? Not to mention the $200 that would cost each trip for gas and a hotel. Asked him to try and provide some other options - I've exerted to much time and money already. I'll let you all know what Airstream says. Joe
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Old 06-12-2004, 01:07 AM   #21
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Angry

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Old 06-12-2004, 09:02 AM   #22
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Exclamation Compression?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barkingspider
All - Looking into replacement plywood and have a question. The original flooring is 5/8 OSB with about 1/8 - 1/4 inch skimmed off of the thickness around the edge in order for it to fit under the aluminum U channel. How do I do that to the new piece of 5/8 in that I am going to stick in there? Looks like there is only room for about 1/2 inch or less under the U channel. Joe
I would think that the orginal flooring was 5/8" all the way out to the edge. The 1/8"-1/4" missing is actually due to the compression of the body on the floor. If you have ever seen the pictures of how they assemble the units, they put the entire floor down first then add the body. I can't see a production line taking the time to grind down the floor edges. Also it would seem to me that by notching the plywood you are defeating the purpose of having the frame and channel bolted thru the floor. The floor is part of the structure. These are just my observations. I have floor to be replaced too. I plan on replacing bolts thru the frame with stainless so if leaks occur again they won't rust off and break.

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Old 06-12-2004, 10:10 AM   #23
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Aaron - You'll just have to take my word for it (I'll post pictures later). My trailer was assembled with one solid piece of 5/8" OSB, 29' long with an edge that is 1/8-1/4" shallower than the rest of the board. This edge comes in about 3" all the way around the trailer. I don't think the factory used a router here I believe these pieces of OSB were manufactured this way for Airstream. I know it sounds strange and I haven't really seen the logic in it but it is true.

Also, I said in an earlier post that I was able to gain access to the carriage bolts in the rear of the trailer and won't have to notch there. Didn't get as lucky aound the side - but I think I'll be ok just notching the board and sliding it around the carriage bolts in those locations and then tightening them down. Joe
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Old 06-12-2004, 10:23 AM   #24
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here's a question: when did they go to 5/8? mine is 3/4 plywood....wonder if they were trying to save weight on the otherwise heavier newer models? is the 5/8 OSB as strong as 3/4 ply? I was thinking of using OSB for my floor replacement (rear 2 feet only)...wonder if that would be too heavy? probably won't make that much of a difference, since its only the last 2 feet.
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Old 06-12-2004, 10:47 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
here's a question: when did they go to 5/8? mine is 3/4 plywood....wonder if they were trying to save weight on the otherwise heavier newer models? is the 5/8 OSB as strong as 3/4 ply? I was thinking of using OSB for my floor replacement (rear 2 feet only)...wonder if that would be too heavy? probably won't make that much of a difference, since its only the last 2 feet.
Must have been in the 80's Mine is 3/4" also. When did the make the switch to OSB? Did it coincide with the introduction of the wider body?

Joe, does your trailer have the flat channel that just sits on top of the plywood or the "F" channel that actually covers the edge of the OSB?

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Old 06-12-2004, 11:18 AM   #26
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Aaron - My trailer actually has what appears to be a "U" channel with a "C" channel below it. One solid piece of Aluminum. Completely covers the exterior edge of the OSB. Sits on top of the steel frame in the rear. I've attached a diagram for reference:
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Old 06-12-2004, 11:54 AM   #27
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With a little extra effort, that scabbed, patched floor could have been made impossible to believe, "all together."

How very sad, indeed.

Flooring should not be scabbed or sectioned in, especially at the rear end.

If the job is going to be undertaken, with just a little more effort, the complete rear section of floor can be replaced. Satisfaction will be guaranteed, if the time and patience was devoted to the job. It's really not a big deal to replace the entire rear section of flooring.

Patch jobs are patch jobs. Seldom do they take the place of proper repair, and almost 100 percent of the time, will turn around and bite you, when you least expect it, and sometimes on the anatomy, where you don't want it.

Scabbing and/or patching is no more than a temporary fix, that is usually passed on to some other owner.

Unfortunately, we deal with many of those owners, who bought a patched trailer, everyday. The look on their faces, when told what it will take to remedy the problem, is worse than gloomy.

Any Airstream can last for many decades. We now have some that are almost 70 years old, and still going strong. Reaching 100 years old, for an Airstream, is a piece of cake. "But," when repaired, "it's gotta be right."


Taking the coach to some dealers, can be risky. Ask the dealer to tell you in "detail" how they plan on repairing whatever needs attention on the coach.
If you receive hymns and haws and sort of's, be wary. Any pro at work, can explain, in detail, what they would do for you. If they can't, hook up and go elsewhere.

Patches are short term temporary fixes. Correct methods are the ideal, long lasting, smiling, I'm glad I took the extra time, type repairs.

Makes a person "happy."

You can choose

Or, you can be

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Old 06-12-2004, 01:27 PM   #28
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I've never had work done at either the Airstream dealership in Buda or North Dallas so I suppose I should stay out of this discussion, BUT my wife's neice who lives in Dripping Springs near Austin tells us that she took her 32' Excella into Buda for some minor repairs (find a leak) and they managed to "break off" her entire a frame in moving the trailer into or out of the shop area with a fork lift. From the sound of things the dealership in Buda may have some problems. Given the closenit community that most Airstream owners become, it doesn't take too many problems such as this before a dealer may find himself out of business.
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