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Old 08-16-2012, 02:01 PM   #57
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Another unsung chore done: I got the door frame sill located and clamped down - snapped a couple of 1/4" stainless bolts trying to pull the shell down so I made up shims to brace sill against floor, and yup you guessed it, I'd gotten ahead of myself since the ribs were not seating back aft of the door to the wheel well.

I scabbed a wood block on the ribs and persuaded the ribs to seat with a sledgehammer while standing on the door sill, then bolted it down before stepping off the sill.

Found a bit of erratica on structure assembly...

On the 1972 29' parts trailer both the factory sill plate countersunk bolts were anchored into outriggers, on the 1973 27' the rear bolt only clamps to plywood. On the 29' trailer the countersunk screw was located above the rear outrigger forward of the door frame by four inches while the 27' has both bolts tucked into the corners.

I fabricated up a backing spreader plate that keys into the outrigger but its still a soft spot in terms of long-term mechanical strength.

Any votes for adding a third countersunk bolt above the outrigger?
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Old 08-17-2012, 12:51 AM   #58
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Deleting my rear hatch as well. Mostly due to the lack of drip rail that is included over other doors but not the rear hatch. The loose fit of the rear hatch actually scoops water running down the back into the camper. Will post pics when I am done.
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:28 PM   #59
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Letsee... Sure is easier to putter around without reporting to y'all


On the back shell tie plate: I decided if it wanted to self-destruct I would not help it, and if someone wanted to replace the back floor sheet I would help them. Does it seem like I’ve been looking at the frames' rear-shell tie down for a long time now?

I decided to split the back 2" hot-rolled iron U-channel functions; 1-1/4" is holding floor up and 3/4" is holding shell down. In other words, the back floor can rot & fall away without affecting the shell/frame structural strength.

I visited my local metals supermarket and on their cut-offs shelf they had a selection of 0.75" and 0.875" square and a chunk of 0.75 x 1" 6061 Aluminum bar... After fitting and playing I went with the 3/4" x 1" bar stock as the mount to the original shell steel tie plate.

I used three eleven-inch chunks fitted flush to the back edge of the inverted U-channel, notching the floor sheet in three places to allow 3/4" bar to be through-bolted with Gr8 5/16" socket-cap bolts & washers, with Gr8 Nyloc nuts.

The iron U-channel is held below the true ladder frame height by the thickness of the ladder frame metal so I doubled up the silicone cushion layers to compensate to lift the flooring level with ladder frame.

The flooring is true 3/4" so with layers of 0.625 silicone and 3M caulk the shell aluminum U-channel is now held proud above the flooring by < 1/8" when I insert the 1" height of the 3/4" x 1" 6061 bar. The U-channel takes about 8-inches on either side to conform back to the flooring height, supported by the 5200 sealant.

Everything is bedded in the 3M 5200 Marine through-hull sealant, and then painted over with it too. All the aluminum was etched and zinc-treated where touching the 5200 so it would bond better.

I omitted the back utility hatch, and when installing the 0.040 2024 sheet I learned the rivet run across 45-inches of two-sheet bonding with two rows of rivet stitching is too long to accomplish without some buckling along the seam if there is not backing frame. We started in the middle and the right half did okay, when halfway done finishing center-to-left got some ripple along the seam. I don’t know if the bucking bar routine had changed or whether the combined pinch of 70~ bucked rivets had stretched the old 0.032 panel but there is a waver in it. Rats. Guess maybe that is where the License Plate will go!

The panel is held to hang lower than the iron frame support. I thought I’d won at fighting 40-year-old shell to get the dimensions correct but after all is said and done the new panel just barely contacts the iron at the far left edge. Rats again. I wanted it hanging free and clear but to blend the steel tie-plate face to meet the curved panel smoothly meant the shell crept forward there and allowed it to touch. Oh well, it's isolated with a dab of 5200 and silicone to keep corrosion down.
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:53 PM   #60
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oh wow......woooowwwww
impressive job, give us hope with our project!
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Old 10-06-2012, 01:21 PM   #61
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Wish its on to the interior, just too much hidden stuff!

. ...got to pay your dues if you wanna sing the blues,
And you know it don't come easy.... .

Ive accommodated the sphanish moss effect of drooping wires for a couple of years and finally condemned the whole 12V wire harness and can report there is 6.7# of 10awg, 3.94# of 12awg, 11.28# of 14awg and 4.84# of 16awg plus 1.5 pounds of connectors and 2 pounds of friction tape and self-stick wire hangers. That 27 pounds of wire and connectors fit neatly in a 5-gallon bucket and is worth $54 as-is at the scrap yard.

Anyone rabid about using all original materials in their restoration, getcher requests in, though I think I am keeping the dashboard main connector with the control center assembly.

Also I can report that the low-voltage wiring insulation on a late 72 built trailer is self-extinguishing plastic, it wont support combustion without being in the presence of another fire. That is a good thing - nothing wrong with the 12V harness as found here, wire looked great, just too much of it went to the wrong places.

Im finding it much harder to quit the 12awg 120VAC as was provided. The lines are still almost like new since 97% of it was never exposed to UV or ozone, and as the interior is likely to be extremely sparse in built-ins for the foreseeable future so itd be an easy rehab to run trunk lines - and the factory outlet liner cutouts would just have to be patched and/or the liners replaced & Im not that enthused at this point.

The next step is prep the shell for insulation!!
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:05 AM   #62
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I have grieved the factory use of spray-adhesive from day one every time I glimpsed it – plus the odor I hate so much is still faintly in attendance – So I chose to burnish away every speck of the spray adhesive and give some texture to the mirror smooth shell panels for insulating paint to bond to.

Peppered through the 1500 posts I have on Airforums are skirmishes I’ve already been through with the trailers fiberglass and none of them pretty. Over a couple of years I cobbled together a drill attachment brush to perfectly scrub the vinyl liners with and then used it to de-tuft the fiberglass, that was the gateway drug to pressure washing the shell interior. But the ultimate ‘high’ remained plain clean aluminum…

Adventurous folks out there reading this sober up right now - it’d be a beneficial & healthful occasion perhaps even celebrated annually until the twinkle fades from your stars to remember contact adhesive ground superfine into flour with residues of fiberglass is listed in the Geneva Treaty along with 10,000rpm angle grinders with a large wire cup brush can & will remove noses, ears, fingers, and yes, I stopped to count nipples once. Stay tuned for further instructions.

Two incidents occurred, first I had a brush slightly off balance that fatigued me more than I knew, when the brush kicked-back and went into oscillation between razor sharp aluminum bows and ribs one hand slipped off and the grinder came after me – but not before it’d slammed the remaining hand into one of the Z-fold standoff sharp edges enough I counted those fingers 5 or 8 times before believing they were still attached. The brush got returned until I found one perfectly balanced at zero wobble.

The second time was near the front roof vent patch where it grabbed a Z-fold standoff and bucked free of my grip to fall in ever-so-lazy slow motion against my cheek, ear and alight onto my shoulder. Luck was with me since the brush had attained zero-speed needed to unclench from the mauled Z-fold standoff and begin toppling toward my face as I was working it nearly directly overhead. I got to watch as the grinder tried to resume RPM while the pivot of my elbow could only direct it toward my face. Facemask, goggles and hearing muffs were all untouched but there is a slight paisley design tattooed on my cheek & jaw from the brush flier strands, and the collar of that work shirt now appears ‘stone-washed’ - so unless ‘it’s you’ to wrestle stuff around that can/will bite maybe hire this portion out!

If you have the reading comprehension and retention we all hope you do, and still decide to follow this path, this chore will occur while the shell is off so to be able to pressure wash the static-clinging aerosolized pestilence into the lawn. Perish the thought I’m trying to be humorous, it is three-day grit since that’s how long it takes to start coughing it up after getting a whiff of it. I won't go into detail how every tool, rag and supply item got flocked with the junk, plus items downwind, took almost as long to clean as the trailer interior.

Anyhow, after bunches of hours I'd managed to get 97% of the aluminum sheets, ribs and bows brushed clean. The next step was an hour of vacuuming the floor and all the crevices repeatedly. Next up was two window fans on high, pushing and pulling, while I fired up a Stihl leaf blower and burned almost a tank of fuel pushing dust out the window until near-zero sparkles were observed in the sun beams coming through the windows.

Next was two 5-gallon buckets, one POR-15 Marine Clean and one plain water for micro-fiber wash clothes and terry-cloth scrub towels to dry - and hit every sheet, rivet and frame piece. The micro-fiber stuff is great, the wash-cloth rinse bucket became black with aluminum oxides but after two rinse & squeeze dries then dipping into the soap to continue, that degreaser bucket remained clear! No carry over, the micro-fiber caught huge amounts of dirt but released 99.9% of it into the rinse water. That's a smart tool to use, always thought they were gimmicks until now.

The final step was doing the same thing to the floor - 2'x2' area at a time. And just like that I have finally eradicated the smell, the contact adhesive and fiberglass and am ready to insulate... The only things left original other than aluminum and glass is the 120VAC wiring and some of the window gaskets

Edit: after all this time I'm guessing Joe Somewhen had the trailer fumigated for rodents (norway rats were in the belly) with a cyanide compound similar to the mole-getter pyrotechnics one lights and gases mole tunnels with. The area behind the control console had more than its share of the smell but the final clue was some of the wiring harness from that area left the 'odor' on my hands as I sorted it for salvage. The remainder of the wire just had a pleasant scent of things electrical... Just saying, when trailer shopping if your nose isn't happy then Mom isn't happy so NO ONE is happy...
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:23 PM   #63
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Nice work!!

After all the great advice you've given me over in my thread about my Caravelle renovation, you'd think I would have checked out your projects but I haven't until now. This is looking really great. I'm not sure if I have the patience to burnish the hidden inside of my shell, but I bet it will help mitigate radiant heat transfer to have the shiny surface. I don't know much about the real efficacy of the insulating paint but I will be watching your posts this winter to see what you think. I ended up spending a couple of hours today rehabbing my BAL jacks instead of putting my shell back on the frame but I hope it happens next weekend. Now I see where the adhesive came from that you sent me to help with my project. Thanks again for that. My floor is really quiet and probably will stay that way. Cheers and here's hoping for a long warm fall. Tim
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Old 10-07-2012, 10:50 PM   #64
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LOL. Yep, still need to do this, my trailer seams are covered with black goo..... We'll see how much I remove ( or not). I'm freakin' sensitive to smell so I totally sympathize.... But congrats on a shiney interior! You mentioned insulating paint, I'm curious as to what you are planning to use?
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:15 AM   #65
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Wabbiteer, that is quite a job you did on the inside of your shell. I can't wait to see the next step. Keep up the good work.
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Old 10-08-2012, 12:36 PM   #66
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glad that you are fine, I normally take some unnecessary risks while working and specially when working solo.
again, glad that you are fine, trailer is looking good!
we are learning a lot!
Once done with the 5th wheel we have a 72 31ft to get into...we are taking notes!
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Old 10-08-2012, 03:44 PM   #67
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Thanks folks - if everyone ignores the frumpy exterior long enough to step inside it appears like a $65,000 new trailer for about 3 seconds!

Quote:
I bet it will help mitigate radiant heat transfer to have the shiny surface
What happened there pretty much ruined any reflective quality it once had. The brushes used gouged and scoured a whole raft of metal from the surface and likely increased the surface area by 333% in order to get paint (or anything) to bond to the old aluminum. I've seen POR-15 ready to peel away easily after a few seasons on 40-year-old aluminum, though it did leave behind a bright clean surface. IIRC, Darkspeed wire brushed his interior to get the spray-in-foam something to bite to, as well as a couple others in the last few years.

Quote:
You mentioned insulating paint, I'm curious as to what you are planning to use?
I'm going with the first stage of insulation as hollow micro-spheres layered and stacked by drying paint.

After caulking all the seams I plan on doing two coats of bonding primer and one or two coats of aluminum flake 'reflective' paint - all of it with the insulating spheres in it.

The primer I chose has about 70% talc solids content - and dries to a rock hard thin film. I primed the first coat on the floor sheets with it, and also a no-longer-temporary (someday we'll custom cut something or another for it) kitchen counter top sink-surround made out of Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) with it and its proved to be great stuff.

The Aluminum paint should be sprayed on to get the leaf-thickness flakes to lay down, supposedly - I am looking forward to doing the rib/bow & inner liner contact points with this too, and if I like it will be doing the hidden side of the liner panels with it.

So - after all this there will only be a 10-15 mil thickness layer and then traditional insulation or a combination of spray-in foam, foam and fiberglass.

I'm not trying to sell this junk to anyone - but I do dislike being cold and by that alone its worth the $150~ or so cash to try it.
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:46 AM   #68
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So are you going to use one or more layers of prodex in addition to the insulating paint?
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Old 10-09-2012, 01:38 PM   #69
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so, a pretty similar insulation job that Darkspeed, any major difference between the ceramic products that you are going with vs his ?
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Old 10-11-2012, 10:46 PM   #70
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I'm working up some details. Hard to place 1000 days of musings into text.
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