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Old 11-15-2011, 10:32 AM   #29
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I've resigned myself to using nine & four-inch rollers and hand brushing in the ribs. Spraying would be ideal but they call for a .021 (.019-.024) nozzle tip size and the HVLP unit I have is a 14 with no parts available.... Unless you or some other learned person knows a better way?

Finally used the spray cans I nabbed from West Marine; sprayed Zinc Chromate today on all the double-C-channel pieces and the end C-channels as well as the wheel well edges etc.. Note that is a high solids paint and really wants to clog the flipping little nozzle. I figured out a couple of hints to help people in the future with it.

1) 15 minutes of shaking and agitation. Watch the born-on dates, the longer it sits in the warehouse and on the shelves the longer you'll need to listen to the marble clapper zinging around the can. Good project to hand off to helper - spouse, especially if they are a passenger in your car running errands.

2) As it sprays the vapor change of the propellant really chills the liquid down... you may get 90 seconds spray time before the pressure drops enough for it to appear to clog up. Soak the can in a pan of hot tap water to start, and repeat to get the pressure back up when it starts wheezing. If the can bulges or splits open you used too hot of water and I'm not responsible. Hot tap water, the kind you can leave your hands in w/o scalding is all thats needed. If you live somewhere that does not have permafrost and ice forming overnight perhaps initially warming the paint is not needed but it sure helps once you've sprayed enough to chill the can down.

3) Paint has Lead Chromate in it. Wear a decent particle respirator. Once its cured its a non-issue... except for the overspray, it really leaves a green dust everywhere. Spray away from people and away from where people want to be - use drop cloths and discard them.

Anyhow... 400grit wet/dry paper texturizes the POR-15 just right for 3M 5200 to grip to, otherwise nothing bonds to POR-15. I am still counting on the 5200 product to grip to the floor to stay in place, and found a cheap office supply one-hole-punch to stitch out a line of holes down the center of the silicone strips to force a rivet effect to hold the slippery silicone in place. Mission creep is a drag sometimes, but not as bad as silicone creep!

Today is a good day to install floor panels but I have no help - have to hover floor sections into place and drop them straight down with little/no adjustment to keep from smearing the adhesives and that take two people. I'll go play with wedges and chocks to try and position with but it does not look good.
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Old 11-20-2011, 08:04 AM   #30
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found a cheap office supply one-hole-punch to stitch out a line of holes down the center of the silicone strips
I now have half a pound of quarter-inch silicone dots. This gasket is similar to what they make fork-lift truck solid tires out of, yields very slightly on compression. The 3M 5200 sealant/adhesive is what they use for boats where gnarliest bond and near zero weathering keeps people alive and boats afloat. Marry the two together between iron frame and the sealed floor panels and its a strong, quiet and insulated gasket. The holes allow the 5200 to 'sew' the silicone in place even if it can't grip the silicone itself, like a rivet every 1/2-inch.

Ended up making a near continuous gasket strip, no overly large gaps like those in the picture, used 1" wide sealant layer then gasket then another layer of sealant all tooled out level with every hole and gap filled.

I'd been waiting on warmer weather, so Friday I got my chance and the floor panel installation (outdoors) finished at 9pm, four hours after sunset with the temperature just dropping below 40°F. Around 40° the 5200 turns into taffy, not that it wont cure when cold just it isn't very workable and very hard to get out of the tube. Used 6-1/2 tubes just to lay-in the gaskets and drip-proof the outer circumference edges. I'll probably used that half-tube and another one to totally fill and zip close any gap between floor and frame.

Saturday was forecast for rain but the 'nowcast' went to 2-4 inches of snow, we hustled and got forty so floor bolts in to clamp and level the flooring in place. Drilled pilot holes upwards through the spars and outriggers to ensure 100% alignment and proper positioning, Trish handled keeping a board over top the drill bores to keep the plywood from splintering while I stayed under the frame...

Around 11:30AM when I'd finished and crawled out from underneath the floor was covered with ice pellets... Trish didn't mention it or complain even with walking/standing on fresh painted plywood with ice pellets being extremely treacherous, as I discovered handling the screwgun. All forty 12-24's went in cleanly, no stripping with 5/32" pilot drill size, and driving them up/down multiple times made them seat themselves perfectly in the MDO plywood. Success!

Hitching up to the truck and backing the floor/frame under the shell lifted a huge weight off my shoulders with another huge step completed. Weather in the 50's is forecast by midweek so that is when the shell will be landed and mated to the frame. Yes, I will shovel out the snow drifts and try to keep water off the floor but its done, yippeee!!!

We were just policing up the tools when Tom dropped by to check it out, this same wild turkey visited while I was pressure washing the shell interior! Washer gas engine and sprayer noise, the drumming of 3000psi hitting aluminum didn't phase it at all. We absented ourselves & Tom snacked on some spilled birdseed and wandered off wearing a cap of snow.
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Old 11-23-2011, 07:30 PM   #31
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Another milestone, the front pylon stand is gone gone gone!

Nice 50°~F day today - snow and melt/mud subsiding, lots of melt water running all over the painted floor. So glad I sealed it 5-coats!

Landed the front of the shell to the floor and just engaged the first set of Double-C Channels before it got too dark to continue. The front edge of the shell was an just under an inch out of square when it came time to drop the hold-down plate through the skins and align the two big anchor bolts. Jogged back end of trailer over 6-7-inches and some muscle then used the hitch jack to insert plate. Only took three tries to get rivet holes 95% aligned.

Tomorrow will have it locked down - really will be cause for THANKSGIVING!
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Old 11-23-2011, 07:36 PM   #32
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Hey Wabbiteer....Ya' workin on a beach? What's all that white stuff?

Great progress!
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Old 11-23-2011, 07:41 PM   #33
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Congrats on the safe landing!
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Old 11-24-2011, 12:42 AM   #34
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Wow!

Hey Wabbiteer, we have been watching your thread with fascination! Looks like a very thorough job! You certainly did get serious about cleaning up that back yard!! We expect to see you and Trish out camping soon! Great progress!
Did Tom get invited to Thanksgiving dinner?? Hope you have a Happy Thanksgiving!
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Old 11-27-2011, 11:42 AM   #35
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I'm not happy - I had to trim the flooring 'curve' for the rear segment skirts that hang below the floor channel to clear... and it looks like it might've got seated properly by removing only half of what actually was cut away, or a half-inch trim. And that was the second time I did that sheet.

If we were not racing against rain/snow I'd have tried stretching the shell to see if it would drop-hook over the floor, I swear we gained over a quarter-inch length just lifting and lowering the shell to trim the back sheet. Crimey.

That back-sheet end cap arc is so fluid from having the battery & water heater lockers interrupting the channel that its never the same twice, so the rear-most floor channel should be stretched by blocking or cables to determine only then where to stop the floor edge.

Picture taken at 10:30PM after a trip to store to get the RotoZip X-Shield2 flush cutter attachment ($28 on clearance) that worked exceedingly well at turning plywood into dust while leaving the bottom paint intact. The Entire back metal brace and floor cut edge now well slimed with 3M 5200 to deflect water intrusion.

Anyhow - the shell is down and secure, but I'm wishing I'd have been able to leave more plywood flooring beneath the back channel than what I've got.

The fresh water inlet leaks, the front dome vent leaks, the refrigerator vent leaks... otherwise its nice and dry - and stomping and dancing on the floor is as quiet and squeak free
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Old 11-27-2011, 11:50 AM   #36
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These projects are frustrating at times. Does your bumper just bolt onto the chassis?
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:57 AM   #37
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For the aluminum bumper - there is a twin hole to the one in above picture on the lower frame rail C flange. This trailer had four 3/4" 5/16-18 flat head screws through-bolted w/ washers & nuts to hold the bumper on.

This has been the warmest autumn ever, these last two months have been a gift for sure. Last winter we had 8~ feet of snow that stayed around 135~ days; this season we're short 6~ inches rain and now 6~ inches snow from drought, its been since August that we've gotten any rain and now were counting on snowpack keep next spring green.

Today I attempt to find a livable arrangement with the trailers, the least trouble being lower the parts trailer and scoot it five feet forward & re-block it up to give more room for parking & snow management. Double and triple throwing snow, tossing it in front of thrower to conveyor belt it to a null area really is hard on equipment & operator. Get sloppy on first snows and it turns to concrete then ya get to live with it three or four months.
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:57 AM   #38
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Nice progress, keep going. I know how it feels at this point it is hard to see the fruit of your labor. Remember the only way around is thru! I used a biscuit joiner (as well as strips of ply glued and stapled) to seam my floors togeather. It might help to reduce some of your floor squeak. Worked pretty good for me.
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Old 11-28-2011, 12:48 PM   #39
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It might help to reduce some of your floor squeak. Worked pretty good for me.
Seems like typos left the sentence mangled...

Should read "stomping and dancing on the floor is quiet and squeak free..." as in solid almost like the factory fiberglass sandwiched floors. I'll double up or more on the floor screws once the 5200 has cured.

Every edge overlapped at least one inch with 3M 5200 used as the adhesive - each floor screw traps both sheets. I need to go back and grout the 1/16" floor joint gaps w/ 5200 next time we get warmer weather.

The backer boards are 10" wide with 35 (seventeen each side!) truss head screws scabbing them to the floor. Those screws were reset after 15 minutes to account for the 5200 adhesive to creep wherever the crush pressure crept it to. Nice tiny bead appeared all along the 60" length edges.

Now onto insulating!
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Old 11-30-2011, 10:33 AM   #40
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Sorry posted from my phone
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Old 12-07-2011, 10:54 AM   #41
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Wow... No Sorries!! I’ll write ideas mo’clear & mo’concise, thanks to you for posting

I notice I started a habit of trailer updates and ideas getting added to other peoples similar project threads instead of keeping it in one place here. If I’m pushing a rope, err, brainstorming in another thread I’ll be sure to thread it in here too.

Autumn had the bottom drop out, we saw 11°F last evening and look for zeroish the next few nights. The Overlander could be 50 miles away instead of 50 feet for whats going to get accomplished with weather like this. Forecast 32° highs this weekend so maybe some caulking and painting with the cold weather primer, and some temporary patches for the furnace vents and hot water heater openings.

I had the pressure washer out last Saturday - got some sheet metal stock cleaned up, the banana wrap corners scoured clean and brought indoors to doll them up and get the decals off them but totally forgot the outer wheel well covers I had stacked up waiting to get cleaned and repaired. By the time they were noticed the machine was stored away and hoses put up AND a fresh inch of snow with 3 to 5 follow had fallen. Rats. Quarter Car-Wash time.

I am almost sold on the FOAM IT 602 Polyurethane Spray Foam kits used by Darkspeed - with a 13 month shelf life having it on hand for the first warm days technically should motivate me to get the other prep work done, right?
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Old 12-18-2011, 12:22 AM   #42
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WOW there Wabbiteer!! What a fine job y'all are doing!
From the title of this thread, I was all set to let you borrow my new sled, just to keep the bones from kink'in up! , don't ya know!

You know what they say, weather you work or play, it's coolest when you have air conditioning.

Keep up the great work, and best of luck.
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