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08-17-2016, 07:31 AM
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#21
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2 Rivet Member
1971 25' Tradewind
Manhattan
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 23
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Lumatic,
I will be removing the shower pan. We will mostly be using the facilities at the campground. I am adding a outside shower box, and a half moon curtain rod that attaches easily when needed on the curbside. As for the cabinets, well they will be built by me. I will be incorporating pallet boards and use a butcher block top from ikea. The bowl will be a hammered copper bowl. The curbside bathroom closet will be removed in order to give me a little more space.
I gutted the whole trailer and won't be using any of the parts. I have complete tambour doors in tact, just FYI if anybody needs anything. Located in Illinois.
Tom
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08-17-2016, 07:35 AM
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#22
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2 Rivet Member
1971 25' Tradewind
Manhattan
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 23
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I have been following these guys from Wisconsin and what they are doing is awesome. I love the look, for those that are originals will hate it.
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08-17-2016, 07:36 AM
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#23
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2 Rivet Member
1971 25' Tradewind
Manhattan
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 23
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Another
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08-17-2016, 07:41 PM
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#24
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Rivet Master
1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland
, New York
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,632
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I painted the top and edges of my floor and in a few inches on the bottom. Penetrating epoxy is a good option. I then wrapped the front and rear edges that aren't enclosed in c channel with several layers of aluminum metal tape you find in the hvac section. They make some heavier weight tape. I figure the aluminum tape should provide a very good water barrier. It's basically thick aluminum foil with tape adhesive on one side. Might be difficult when doing a shell on but you could probably do it on the new floor pieces before you slide them in.
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08-17-2016, 10:05 PM
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#25
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3 Rivet Member
1971 27' Overlander
Jackson
, Tennessee
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 166
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Firemntom,
I did a similar repair on my '71, posted here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f4/s...-a-119687.html
I slid a new section of alclad under the original rear panel, riveted it to the back hatch (which you don't have, but it would attach as you rivet through the hold-down plate). This new panel extends down to the level of the belly pan, which I extended to become the floor of my bumper trunk. No water or critters can enter now with this design.
Btw, I had my hold-down plate, which is what I think you referred to as the L bracket, made out of stainless. The only problem with aluminum is that if you get it thick enough for strength, it might create too much gap between the plywood and the cross-member at the sides. Whatever you choose, remember to use some type of barrier between dissimilar metals. Anyway, from bottom up, you have the cross-member, hold-down plate, plywood floor, C channel sandwich.
I hope this helps. I was determined to get away from the original design that funneled water straight to the plywood.
Have fun,
Alan
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08-18-2016, 02:28 PM
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#26
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Rivet Master
1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland
, New York
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,632
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"Btw, I had my hold-down plate, which is what I think you referred to as the L bracket, made out of stainless. The only problem with aluminum is that if you get it thick enough for strength, it might create too much gap between the plywood and the cross-member at the sides. Whatever you choose, remember to use some type of barrier between dissimilar metals. Anyway, from bottom up, you have the cross-member, hold-down plate, plywood floor, C channel sandwich."
Same size in aluminum is more than enough. When you think about it, (and calculate it) the rivets will tear out of the skin and c channel well before they tear out of the hold down plate. Not just due to thickness but also because the rivets end up farther from the edge in the hold down plate than the back skin and c channel. The cross member below the hold down plate and bolts are providing vertical support.
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08-18-2016, 03:30 PM
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#27
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1 Rivet Member
1979 31' Sovereign
1999 30' Excella 1000
nederland
, Texas
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 18
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I would recommend running a sprinkler on the outside of the trailer to check for leaks before putting the inner skins on. I found out that every one of the Airstream letters on the back of my trailer leaked badly after repairing my floor.
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08-18-2016, 05:17 PM
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#28
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2 Rivet Member
1968 22' Safari
Edmonton
, Alberta
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 21
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Help!! Rear floor
Quote:
Originally Posted by Firemntom
I was thinking as going as far as applying a water sealer to the existing floor from underneath. Maybe a Thompsons Water Sealer.
I also posted about redirecting the bathroom fan "fart fan" so that it blows air throughout the belly pan. I can keep it on a switch and have it turn on with a 12v humidstat, set it and forget it. I can't see why it wouldn't help dry the area out quicker.
Good or bad idea on both?
Tom
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Your fan idea is interesting although I'd be concerned with power consumption. Venting the belly pan could have almost as good of an effect with far less work.
On the subfloor sealing- I would recommend sealing the interior side (top) and outer edges with a penetrating epoxy sealer. You should use at least 2 coats. I would only use an exterior grade, high solids coating for the underside. The exterior grade wood 'sealants' are designed to breath and therefore allow the moisture that does get in (and it will) a pathway out.
If you actually seal the underside of the subfloor you risk capturing the moisture indefinitely (vented or not).
This will guarantee rot that comes from the inside out.
Just my 2 pents
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08-18-2016, 05:39 PM
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#29
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Rivet Master
1971 25' Tradewind
1993 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Estancia
, New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 7,742
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Rot begins in the corners and edges of plywood. I don't see any reason to seal the whole sheet.
__________________
Sail on silver girl. Sail on by. Your time has come to shine.
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08-18-2016, 07:11 PM
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#30
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Rivet Master
1974 27' Overlander
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,042
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HolyRoller
If you actually seal the underside of the subfloor you risk capturing the moisture indefinitely (vented or not).
This will guarantee rot that comes from the inside out.
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I disagree. When sealing any sheet of wood, it's typical to seal both sides evenly, else any changes in humidity cause the unsealed side to expand or contract, which warps the wood. With the wood bolted to the frame, it probably wouldn't bend, but it might crack, which would defeat the seal and weaken the piece. I would suggest it's best to totally encase the wood if you have the opportunity. Just my opinion.
I went to some great lengths to avoid recurrence of rear floor rot. Sealed entire floor in west system epoxy, wrapped rear edge of plywood in a butyl window gasket called Protecto-wrap, added a piece of aluminum to deflect water, and re-engineered the bumper lid attachment to direct water through the bumper compartment to the ground rather than under the plywood floor.
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08-18-2016, 08:31 PM
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#31
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3 Rivet Member
1973 23' Safari
1970 27' Overlander
Boerne
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 222
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Greatleys - I am working on this bumper issue - I have made the flashing as described above. I would love to hear how you modified your bumper/trunk area to keep water out.
Thanks,
Greg
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