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Old 08-16-2016, 08:48 PM   #15
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Oh also, when they weld the cross member back in, make sure the bumper is installed, don't need the bumper compartment parts but you want the bumper on. The uneven heat on the inside edges of the frame when welding can cause the frame rails to bow outward widening the distance where the bumper attaches. Then the bumper and bumper compartment won't fit back on correctly.
Believe it, the expansion of the hotter metal on the inner surface of the frame vs the outer surface not being welded can create enough stress to cause the frame to bend. Crazy I know!
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Old 08-16-2016, 08:54 PM   #16
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Look at useing plastic not plywood it can't rot. don't put the rock wool back in its a spunge
Add air vents on the belly pan it needs air to dry out after rain's
Best wishes Jim
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Old 08-16-2016, 08:58 PM   #17
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Can someone please tell me why these pictures are all turned?
Been having the same problem.
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Old 08-16-2016, 08:58 PM   #18
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HiJoeSilver, I was wondering if I could switch that bracket to Aluminum. It doesn't make sense for it to be steel. I figured it needed to be steel for some sort of support.

I can't wait to make it right!! All fired up now!!

Should the top of the flashing you said be covered up by the rub rail? Clean look? Or should I go higher and attach it to the main rear panel?

Tom
Yes the flashing will go up higher than the rub rail, but it will be in front of the shell metal between the shell and that L bracket so you won't be able to see it since it's covered by the original shell bottom level. You can put some Olympic rivets through it to hold it all in place then then the rub rail will cover those right up. Won't look any different from outside when done.
I recommend putting the rivets through so they catch the c channel, this way those rivets will be holding the skin, flashing , L bracket and c channel together nice and tight. Don't forget squirting a little sealant into the rivet holes before putting them in helps seal those from leaks as well. It can be a little messy. But it's worth the peace of mind.
Joe
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Old 08-17-2016, 06:52 AM   #19
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I was thinking as going as far as applying a water sealer to the existing floor from underneath. Maybe a Thompsons Water Sealer.

I also posted about redirecting the bathroom fan "fart fan" so that it blows air throughout the belly pan. I can keep it on a switch and have it turn on with a 12v humidstat, set it and forget it. I can't see why it wouldn't help dry the area out quicker.

Good or bad idea on both?

Tom
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Old 08-17-2016, 07:01 AM   #20
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I was thinking as going as far as applying a water sealer to the existing floor from underneath. Maybe a Thompsons Water Sealer.
om
i would use a penetrating epoxy designed for wood.

I am doing a similar project on my 71 Tradewind. What are you planning on doing with the shower pan and bathroom surrounds. I have repaired the tambour under the lavarette several times and think it is a lost cause. I want to build a cabinet with a small sink and cabinet doors.
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Old 08-17-2016, 07:31 AM   #21
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Lumatic,
I will be removing the shower pan. We will mostly be using the facilities at the campground. I am adding a outside shower box, and a half moon curtain rod that attaches easily when needed on the curbside. As for the cabinets, well they will be built by me. I will be incorporating pallet boards and use a butcher block top from ikea. The bowl will be a hammered copper bowl. The curbside bathroom closet will be removed in order to give me a little more space.

I gutted the whole trailer and won't be using any of the parts. I have complete tambour doors in tact, just FYI if anybody needs anything. Located in Illinois.
Tom
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Old 08-17-2016, 07:35 AM   #22
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I have been following these guys from Wisconsin and what they are doing is awesome. I love the look, for those that are originals will hate it.
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Old 08-17-2016, 07:36 AM   #23
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Old 08-17-2016, 07:41 PM   #24
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I painted the top and edges of my floor and in a few inches on the bottom. Penetrating epoxy is a good option. I then wrapped the front and rear edges that aren't enclosed in c channel with several layers of aluminum metal tape you find in the hvac section. They make some heavier weight tape. I figure the aluminum tape should provide a very good water barrier. It's basically thick aluminum foil with tape adhesive on one side. Might be difficult when doing a shell on but you could probably do it on the new floor pieces before you slide them in.
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Old 08-17-2016, 10:05 PM   #25
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Firemntom,

I did a similar repair on my '71, posted here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f4/s...-a-119687.html

I slid a new section of alclad under the original rear panel, riveted it to the back hatch (which you don't have, but it would attach as you rivet through the hold-down plate). This new panel extends down to the level of the belly pan, which I extended to become the floor of my bumper trunk. No water or critters can enter now with this design.

Btw, I had my hold-down plate, which is what I think you referred to as the L bracket, made out of stainless. The only problem with aluminum is that if you get it thick enough for strength, it might create too much gap between the plywood and the cross-member at the sides. Whatever you choose, remember to use some type of barrier between dissimilar metals. Anyway, from bottom up, you have the cross-member, hold-down plate, plywood floor, C channel sandwich.

I hope this helps. I was determined to get away from the original design that funneled water straight to the plywood.

Have fun,
Alan
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Old 08-18-2016, 02:28 PM   #26
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"Btw, I had my hold-down plate, which is what I think you referred to as the L bracket, made out of stainless. The only problem with aluminum is that if you get it thick enough for strength, it might create too much gap between the plywood and the cross-member at the sides. Whatever you choose, remember to use some type of barrier between dissimilar metals. Anyway, from bottom up, you have the cross-member, hold-down plate, plywood floor, C channel sandwich."

Same size in aluminum is more than enough. When you think about it, (and calculate it) the rivets will tear out of the skin and c channel well before they tear out of the hold down plate. Not just due to thickness but also because the rivets end up farther from the edge in the hold down plate than the back skin and c channel. The cross member below the hold down plate and bolts are providing vertical support.
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Old 08-18-2016, 03:30 PM   #27
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I would recommend running a sprinkler on the outside of the trailer to check for leaks before putting the inner skins on. I found out that every one of the Airstream letters on the back of my trailer leaked badly after repairing my floor.
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Old 08-18-2016, 05:17 PM   #28
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Help!! Rear floor

Quote:
Originally Posted by Firemntom View Post
I was thinking as going as far as applying a water sealer to the existing floor from underneath. Maybe a Thompsons Water Sealer.



I also posted about redirecting the bathroom fan "fart fan" so that it blows air throughout the belly pan. I can keep it on a switch and have it turn on with a 12v humidstat, set it and forget it. I can't see why it wouldn't help dry the area out quicker.



Good or bad idea on both?



Tom

Your fan idea is interesting although I'd be concerned with power consumption. Venting the belly pan could have almost as good of an effect with far less work.

On the subfloor sealing- I would recommend sealing the interior side (top) and outer edges with a penetrating epoxy sealer. You should use at least 2 coats. I would only use an exterior grade, high solids coating for the underside. The exterior grade wood 'sealants' are designed to breath and therefore allow the moisture that does get in (and it will) a pathway out.

If you actually seal the underside of the subfloor you risk capturing the moisture indefinitely (vented or not).

This will guarantee rot that comes from the inside out.

Just my 2 pents
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