Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-26-2004, 05:15 PM   #43
3 Rivet Member
 
2005 31' Classic
Gretna , Nebraska
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 140
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepinAudiophile
I would also like to add to that, that you may want to check on the frame if the floor was that bad- surely it is in need to some repairs in that case. That was how we got started... it all started with pulling up the old gross carpet just to get it out... now all of a sudden i'm cutting, modifying, adding to the frame, replacing my single 17 gallon black water tank with a 35 gallon black water tank, and throwing in a 35 gallon gray water tank while we're at it. This may be taking it a bit far (53 additional gallons).... but it's the bug!!! My father is already talking about finding a 50's trailer as the next project. Be careful or you'll get bit, but also if you plan on keeping the trailer for a while- you should make sure the platform for which the trailer is constructed is in good standing order. I plan on towing my trailer around for an additional 36 years, i'm trying to modernize it without modifying the outward appearance and also re-juvenate it's life to get many more years of smooth, silver streaking out of it.
We bought the '86 so we didn't have to do all this work to the '70 Overlander my parents gave us. Plus the gray water tank issue. Then there was this odor.... You know the progression from there. We want to get it up & going for some travel yet this year, so want to get it back together now. Can always do more later. Pergo floor, so getting inside is not too dificult, having done it once now. I can see how it could be a consuming habit.

Dwight/Nebraska
__________________

__________________
16595 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2004, 06:55 PM   #44
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
A caution about notches...

Dwight,

I want to give you a word of caution about just notching the plywood around the bolts. The bottom of your walls is probably similar to my 1973 with a combination u-channel and c-channel extrusion along the bottom. The u-channel points up and the c-channel is under the u-channel and points toward the center of the trailer. At least this is the way it is along the sides of the trailer. If you are working only on the ends (which it sounds like you might be) then there is no c-channel part on the bottom of the u-channel in that region on my unit. Along the sides there are screws that hold the channel to the edge of the plywood. Around the ends there are bolts through the channel and the plywood. My word of caution has to do with what the screws and bolts are expected to be doing as follows:

The screws along the sides mainly keep the c-channel from being able to move outward away from the plywood. The weight of the trailer body is supported by the extrusion which sits on the plywood which sits on the ends of the frame outriggers. The strength of the plywood itself helps give the outriggers more support ability. The c-channel part holds the body down to the floor so it can not lift off. If you were to notch the plywood where the screws are along the sides the channel would not really have anything holding it sideways to the plywood. This is most probably a recipe for a problem. My floor was rotted pretty badly on the curb side so that there was no wood to hold the screws. The body along that side had spread out as much as an inch. It only had to go about another 1/4" before it could fall off the end of the outriggers. I also found that a lot of the screws were pretty rusty. So on the sides I think you need to somehow fasten the body so that it can not pull away from the plywood. I think there are other ways to do this besides using screws from the top. If your belly pan is off you could perhaps put some new screws in from the bottom side through the c-channel. The old screws on my unit were pretty small. I am replacing them with 3/4" long pan head screws - I think they might be number 8's. They are a bit bigger than the originals in any case.

The bolts around the back end perform a similar task in that they keep the body from being able to pull away from the floor sideways. They also perform another important task, especially along the back end. They help transfer structural strength from the floor plywood to the outer edges of the body to help prevent frame sag in the back. If the bolts were tightened down on the floor you may not be able to get the plywood to slip past them very well. I think it would be a bad idea to notch around the bolts at least for the sideways support issue. It would also be desirable to have the bolts tight against the plywood for best vertical support. It would be easiest to be able to put in new bolts by accessing the tops of the old and new ones behind the inner skin. You might be able to just detach the lower part of the inner skin enough to roll it back for access without removing it entirely. Since you can see where the bolts are from where you dug out the plywood you might also consider cutting notches in the lower edge of the inner skin for access with a wrench and covering them over later with some sort of base trim. You might also be able to use some sort of expansion bolt installed from entirely underneath the area.

I hope this helps. Please feel free to post ifany other questions you might have. I, for one, have received a lot of help from these forums.

Malcolm
__________________

__________________
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2004, 09:36 AM   #45
3 Rivet Member
 
2005 31' Classic
Gretna , Nebraska
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 140
Thanks for the advice. I figured it may not be a good idea to avoid those fasteners. Opening the inner skin is not that difficult. Maybe a little tougher on the curved surfaces - will see.

Do you like the methods where the board is placed along the outer channel and flooring spliced to it? That looks like a good approach for fitting things tightly with not too much grief. Easier than trying to wangle a whole sheet of plywood into a groove on 3 sides.

Dwight
__________________
16595 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2004, 12:35 PM   #46
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
Board around the edges...

Dwight,

I still like the idea of putting board around the edges and splicing to it. I ended up not using the approach even though I suggested it myself. I was very close to doing so but decided not to at the last minute. I still think the approach has merit - especially if someone wants to do the whole floor without removing the belly pan. I ended up removing about 1/2 of my belly pan.

Moving the sheets around is not actually too bad. The most important thing to do I think is to make sure that the c-channel is clear of all screws and bolts and that it has not been crushed. I had a couple of places where the bottom flange of the c-channel was bent up a bit and conflicted with the edge of the plywood. These areas were in the part of the floor where I put the bracing in after having removed the floor instead of before. Pretty much everywhere I had put the bracing in before taking out the floor did not have this problem because the bracing did hold the channel up and in so it could not crush. You could shave a bit of a bevel on the edge of the plywood to ease the fit if you want. I didn't and I was able to install 5 of the 7 sheets all by myself.

If you have not seen it yet you might look at my last posting in the thread titled "Body and banana wrap on floor replacement technique". Here I noted a trick that I found out about getting cross-wise sheets to fit into the end curves.

Malcolm
__________________
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2004, 10:26 PM   #47
3 Rivet Member
 
2005 31' Classic
Gretna , Nebraska
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 140
I have drilled out the rivets on the bottom 2 feet of the first panel ahead of the door. I find that the sheet extends behind the door frame and limits how far I can bend it up.

Any advice?

Dwight.
__________________
16595 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2004, 11:05 PM   #48
3 Rivet Member
Commercial Member
 
JeepinAudiophile's Avatar
 
1968 24' Tradewind
Fort Myers , Florida
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 178
Images: 66
Send a message via AIM to JeepinAudiophile Send a message via Yahoo to JeepinAudiophile
Quote:
Originally Posted by 16595
I have drilled out the rivets on the bottom 2 feet of the first panel ahead of the door. I find that the sheet extends behind the door frame and limits how far I can bend it up.

Any advice?

Dwight.
Yes... the edge of metal that is limiting the panel is a trim piece that is riveted to the door frame... it can be drilled out as the panels were, i cannot remember wether it drills out from inside the doorway or the edging... --Chad--
__________________
Tow Rig: 2005 GMC Sierra Denali AWD, 6.0L HO- LOTS OF UPGRADES to help Towing (and Fun)
Trailer: 1968 Tradewind 24', Land Yacht trim (Shell-Off Rebuild and upgrades)
***Missing from my life***

WBCCI # 13657
++Take a look at my restoration photo album++
http://picasaweb.google.com/ChadsAirstream
JeepinAudiophile is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2004, 11:21 PM   #49
3 Rivet Member
Commercial Member
 
JeepinAudiophile's Avatar
 
1968 24' Tradewind
Fort Myers , Florida
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 178
Images: 66
Send a message via AIM to JeepinAudiophile Send a message via Yahoo to JeepinAudiophile
yupp... went and checked on that for ya.... they are drilled out fron inside the doorway.
__________________
Tow Rig: 2005 GMC Sierra Denali AWD, 6.0L HO- LOTS OF UPGRADES to help Towing (and Fun)
Trailer: 1968 Tradewind 24', Land Yacht trim (Shell-Off Rebuild and upgrades)
***Missing from my life***

WBCCI # 13657
++Take a look at my restoration photo album++
http://picasaweb.google.com/ChadsAirstream
JeepinAudiophile is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2004, 12:24 PM   #50
3 Rivet Member
 
2005 31' Classic
Gretna , Nebraska
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 140
Chad,

You are so right! Guess I didn't look closely. Have the door frame loose, and all bolts/screws out along curb side. Now to start putting it back together.

Rust on frame: Some. Worst in the exterior area around the box where the step folds up. Sounds good to the hammer, but some flakes off in places.

Thanks.

Dwight
__________________
16595 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2004, 12:05 AM   #51
3 Rivet Member
Commercial Member
 
JeepinAudiophile's Avatar
 
1968 24' Tradewind
Fort Myers , Florida
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 178
Images: 66
Send a message via AIM to JeepinAudiophile Send a message via Yahoo to JeepinAudiophile
That is one of the most common places for rusting-through from what i ahve read.... Mine had already been replaced by a PO, I plan to add to the new piece of metal they installed in the door way by welding it in. My frame needs a lot of love, more that i had thought from looking around- I am very happy that I decided to do the shell-off, allowing me to start all over, hoping to get another 36 years out of it.... The latest chapter is that we decided we have to replace all the electrical wiring, since i have the aluminum wire in mine, which is know to cause fires once the wire has been stressed. YAY, more work. I lean back and take it with a grain of salt, followed quickly by a Captain and Coke.
__________________
Tow Rig: 2005 GMC Sierra Denali AWD, 6.0L HO- LOTS OF UPGRADES to help Towing (and Fun)
Trailer: 1968 Tradewind 24', Land Yacht trim (Shell-Off Rebuild and upgrades)
***Missing from my life***

WBCCI # 13657
++Take a look at my restoration photo album++
http://picasaweb.google.com/ChadsAirstream
JeepinAudiophile is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2004, 12:15 AM   #52
Rivet Master
 
JohnG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 541
Since you are going to be replacing the wire in your trailer it might be a good idea to run conduit. That way if you ever need to pull more wire for some add on it would be a simple task rather than a major project.

Just a thought..................................

I wait and watch this thread with great anticipation to learn of your progress. Can't wait to see the final touches. Keep up the good work.
__________________
Just adding my 2 worth

John G
___________________________
1975 31ft Sovereign International
........Rear Bath Double Bed Model
Tow Vehicle:1999 GMC Serria SLE Classic 1500 5.7Ltr
System: Jordon 2020 Ultima Brake Controller
Hook-Up: Equalizing Hitch and Sway Bar
JohnG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2004, 12:45 AM   #53
3 Rivet Member
 
Hippo's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Battle Ground , Washington
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 180
Images: 2
Kubota Tow Vehicle

Around my place I use my BX2200 Tractor to tow my AS. My floor was in good condition. We just replaced the carpet with vinyl peel and stick squares. I trimmed the walls with plastic quarter round.
Good luck on the floor replacement.
__________________
Hippo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2004, 05:01 PM   #54
3 Rivet Member
Commercial Member
 
JeepinAudiophile's Avatar
 
1968 24' Tradewind
Fort Myers , Florida
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 178
Images: 66
Send a message via AIM to JeepinAudiophile Send a message via Yahoo to JeepinAudiophile
Yeah, the Kubota makes a great trailer dolly for the yard... sure beats hitching and un-hitching the jeep.
__________________
Tow Rig: 2005 GMC Sierra Denali AWD, 6.0L HO- LOTS OF UPGRADES to help Towing (and Fun)
Trailer: 1968 Tradewind 24', Land Yacht trim (Shell-Off Rebuild and upgrades)
***Missing from my life***

WBCCI # 13657
++Take a look at my restoration photo album++
http://picasaweb.google.com/ChadsAirstream
JeepinAudiophile is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2004, 09:26 AM   #55
3 Rivet Member
 
2005 31' Classic
Gretna , Nebraska
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 140
The area right below the door has a significant crack on mine. After inserting floor boards, I plan to close this up with sufficient Silicone II. Also put a bead of sealer along front of trailer where seam would let in moisture, and around hitch beams.

Thanks to all for advice. This is a great resource. Now I must get to work.

Dwight
__________________
16595 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2004, 09:45 AM   #56
Rivet Master
 
59toaster's Avatar
 
1959 22' Caravanner
Atlanta , Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,197
Images: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by 16595
The area right below the door has a significant crack on mine. After inserting floor boards, I plan to close this up with sufficient Silicone II. Also put a bead of sealer along front of trailer where seam would let in moisture, and around hitch beams.

Thanks to all for advice. This is a great resource. Now I must get to work.

Dwight
NO.

The silicon does not make a good bond to aluminum. The Silicon will release off the aluminum after a short period of time and then you will leak again. You want to use either Vulkem or Silkaflex. Both are products used by the factory for the assembly. I have not used the Silkaflex but I have used plenty of Vulkem. It sticks to anything and it's not coming off unless fire or mechanical means such as cutting is involved for a LONG TIME.

THe Silkaflex is availalbe right off the www.airstream.com site. www.Airstreamdreams.com www.inlandrv.com also have Vulkem and may have the silaflex.

There is also a recent post in the last week or two about what to use to seal these coaches and these products were discussed. Here is that thread.
http://www.airforums.com/forum...ghlight=vulkem

Here is one of the many discusstions about silicon. Including coments from andy who owns a aristream dealer and worked for Airstream for many years as an adjuster.

http://www.airforums.com/forum...ghlight=vulkem
__________________

__________________
1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
59toaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Anyone replace MH Front Wheel Bearings? swebster Mechanics Corner - Engines, Transmission & More... 17 06-27-2004 12:55 PM
front & rear wraparound want310 Windows & Screens 10 02-04-2004 03:17 PM
Front & rear windows clear or covered? Forrest On The Road... 9 07-15-2003 11:48 PM
Z71 or Z85? River Rat Tow Vehicles 7 05-09-2003 05:40 PM
replace twin beds in rear bedroom update femuse General Interior Topics 7 03-24-2003 10:25 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:25 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.