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Old 06-30-2004, 05:48 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight
You can put in a new floor without doing a shell off, and it can be done in two weeks.
http://www.airstreamphotos.com/photo...sort/1/cat/500
Your frame appears to be sandblasted awaiting paint.

Chad will probably find frame...situations...that require attention.

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Old 06-30-2004, 05:51 PM   #16
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No, thats the finished product. Floor already in and camping in it this weekend, Just using it as a bunkhouse, but I need a break!
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Old 06-30-2004, 06:12 PM   #17
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Don't do a full body off...

You may not need to do a full body off floor replacement. There are various threads in the forums here about replacing the floor with the body still in place. A lot really depends on what condition your frame is in. If it does not need much attention you could conceivably replace the floor without even taking the belly pan off if you really had to. You can certainly do it without a full body removal as long as the frame does not need major rebuilding. I think the fully body off is mainly needed if you need to do a lot of work on the frame that the body would be in the way of. The main problem that I have run in to is that you don't really know what you are going to have to replace until you peel back some of the layers and find out what is underneath. For example one of the things I found was that there is a crack that I did not know about in my grey water tank.

One especially good thread to look at is:

Shell Off vs Shell On

I also suggest that you go to the forum area and cruise the postings in the "Repairing or Replacing the Floor" sub-category. There is a lot of information there.

I am hoping to get my plywood all out and replaced over the weekend. It has taken me a while to get everything out of the way to do so though. In my unit there are a lot of holes of various kinds in the floor that I have had to carefully measure and document. I have also had to disconnect the various wires and pipes that passed through the floor so that the plywood can be removed. I am also making a point of using my digital camera to document everything I take out so I can look at the photos if I forget how something looked before I took it out.

Once you cruise some of the postings you might want to put a list of questions here in this thread that you still need answers to. There are a lot of us that are either in the middle of a floor restoration or have done one. There are also a lot of different approaches too I might add.

Malcolm
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Old 07-05-2004, 11:46 PM   #18
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thanks all, i've been busy workin on the trailer... took a few days off for the 4th to have down time and get out. I have started disassembling the inner shell from the top down, since I am going to repalce all the wiring and insulation, and whatever else comes my way durring the process...I am going to take the advice of trying it with the shell-on, then if i've got frame rot... i'll have to change the game plan from there. Any examples of what i'm looking for on the frame? (aside from obvious cracks, holes, etc.)
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Old 07-06-2004, 09:47 AM   #19
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You are looking for rust - poke an ice pick around the frame, also look for chips/flakes. Is you frame a "c" channel or box?

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Old 07-07-2004, 01:20 PM   #20
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darned if i know...
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Old 07-07-2004, 01:29 PM   #21
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I am almost certain its box - should have some round holes that you can poke around the inside of the box and feel for rust.
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Old 07-09-2004, 01:59 PM   #22
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thanks for the info... i've been a bit distracted lately, a lot of things going on so i've only been able to work on the trailer in small steps.... im still trying to remove all the inner-skin panels...i can't get over how the mice get everywhere... my biggest nest so far was right above the entry door...So im hoping to get all the skin remover by the end of the weekend, then im ready to pull up the floor and trake a look at the type of frame design i have, and what shape it is in. Alos, I am excited that my new marmoleum tiles showed up yesterday with the adhesive...190lb pallete in the back of a semi...that was interesting to get to the door, and unload it.
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Old 07-11-2004, 06:17 PM   #23
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I've made a good deal of progress, if anyone is interested in seeing they can take a look at my members photo page on airstreamphotos.com
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Old 07-11-2004, 10:13 PM   #24
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Wow, almost looks like one being assembled in the factory.
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Old 07-16-2004, 02:22 PM   #25
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okay, so here's the update. The belly pan is off, the front 4 feet of plywood was cut into squares with a hand circular saw, then ripped out. This leaves the edge of the wood still between the frame and the channels in the shell. My father and I have argued about whether the floor needs to come up first or not. I do not want to remove the floor, leaving the holes, etc all there to make appropriate templates. He insists that we should cut out the floor because it will be easier to work. We are having trouble getting the bolts out that hold the shell to the plywood. Any suggestions, i just went out and boutht a bunch of cut-off wheels for the dremel. Any suggestions as to supporting the shell in the air properly without damaging the shape. It seems that the panels come down the side and curl underneath, leaving me with no direct access to the channels in the shell to rest the shell on a board. We have a few thoughts on how we can do this, but i would appreciate input from someone who has already worked through this problem. Thanks. --Chad--
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Old 07-19-2004, 08:00 PM   #26
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Bracing the body, etc...

Chad,

It sounds like I am just a little bit ahead of where you are in your process. Check out the forum topic "Shell Off vs Shell On" and look for my post titled "Time to post a progress report...". The bracing technique I used there has worked just fine and did not require all that much in the way of extra materials. I have only been able to get the first two sheets of plywood installed since that posting because I had to spend time fixing a few things on the frame and painting. The bracing did work just great though and did allow me to apply focussed lift to the part of the body where I was working on inserting plywood.

There are some ways that I found that worked to help lift the body in a given spot for inserting a piece of plywood. The two sheets I installed so far are lengthwise at the back of the trailer. I needed to be able to apply lift on one side without putting a jack in the area where the sheet of plywood had to fit. Here is what I did:

1.) I used a luggage tie down strap to hold down the 2 x 4 cross piece near the end opposite where I wanted to lift the body.

2.) I put a loose 2 x 4 lengthwise on top of the cross members as close as I could get to the side that had to be lifted without blocking where the new sheet had to go.

3.) I set my bottle jack on top of the loose 2 x 4 and applied lift to the cross member. Since the force was off center toward where the luggage strap was fastened the 2 x 4 would have lifted at the wrong end if I had not tied it down. Instead the end I wanted to lift went up just fine and took the body with it.

I did have some comments in the posting that I mentioned as to how to carefully measure the floor and make good notes. I found that bracing the body and then going for full floor removal has proven to be just fine. I do agree that it was a pain to get out some of the bolts and screws, especially some of the ones along the body edges. Again see my post for some ideas and tool suggestions.

Basically I found that the process of removing all the floor and all the old fastenings was a lot of work but mostly needed sweat and patience. Having someone to help you will make a lot of difference at least for morale. As I recall the whole process of getting the bracing in and all of my floor out took me 3 full days of work. You also have an advantage in that your rig is not as long as mine.

Please let me know if you have any questions about what I posted in the other thread. Check out the photos that I posted in my photo area.

Malcolm
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Old 07-20-2004, 11:33 AM   #27
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Thank You for the information and tips. I have successfully removed all the bolts on the shell-to-floor. Now i have the shell suspended about 4" above the frame. We have completed all the bracing, and built 4 saw horses to rest the shell on. By the end of the day today I hope to have the shell suspended, and the frame pulled out from underneath. We are going to have to do some frame repair, but luckily it is not much. Also we plan to modify the frame in the rear to add a gray-water tank just behind the axles. Still deceiding whether to do sand-blasting then epoxy-paint, or just POR-15 it.
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Old 07-20-2004, 08:28 PM   #28
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Picture update

This is at 9:30 tonight, hopefully we can get it supported fully tonight to be ready to tow out the frame tomorrow.



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