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Old 12-15-2013, 10:22 AM   #29
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1973 27' Overlander
1972 29' Ambassador
St. Paul , Minnesota
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Really it's not a big deal <--- AMEN.

The 3 P's apply, prior proper preparation. This stuff deserves respect, it can be a 50-plus year coating. From me stripping my frames first POR effort off and what I discovered, the next step up in comparison of places done correctly would be chrome plate. No lie, so its no big deal.

'in the end, the love you get is equal to the love you give'

I'm looking forward to dbj's commentary & any hint's and tips that arise...
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Old 12-17-2013, 06:24 PM   #30
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1986 34' Limited
1966 24' Tradewind
Conifer , Colorado
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I applied my POR 15 today. What a job! I spent 7 hours on my creeper dabbing the stuff in nooks and crannies of the frame. I have a few observations.

I think the stuff is too demanding for an application when the shell is still on the frame. It is too difficult to get good coverage dabbing with a small brush overhead. The 2 to 5 hours between coats ties your hands. I gave up checking for the "slight finger grab". I had a hard time getting it on before it dried. The stuff is thin and runs and drips. It seems like it would be better sprayed. It would certainly cover better. And be 10x faster. And don't forget to store the stuff in glass jars.

I won't use it again unless I have the shell off and I have good access to the frame.

I picked silver POR 15 instead of black. Silver shows all the brush marks, runs and drips. I have one ugly frame. Hopefully it won't rust. I can't wait to get the belly pans back on to cover it up. I may have been better off with the black. The silver dries a sickly yellow hue. I hope the sterling silver top coat brightens the A frame, step and bumper.

I could have sprayed two coats of Rustoleum, primer and top coat, and been good enough.

What a mess POR 15 makes. My overalls and face shield are really spotted with silver. And so is my plastic drop cloth. And my creeper. And my rubber gloves. And my work boots. And the creeper tracked it all over the shop floor. I tied the gloves with rubber bands at my forearms to keep the stuff from dripping down to my elbows.

Not a fun day.

David
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Old 12-17-2013, 07:57 PM   #31
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It's a ton of work but I really believe it's a much better product than the rustoleum. Be happy you're done, I still have the back 10 feet of my frame to paint.
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Old 12-17-2013, 09:02 PM   #32
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Rustoleum is junk. I have painted stuff with it and it rusts worse than is was before it was painted.

Perry
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Old 12-18-2013, 12:50 PM   #33
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Quote:
...could have sprayed two coats of Rustoleum, primer and top coat, and been good enough.
dbj - now tell us what you really think! Ya know you've just increased the resale value by a fair chunk of change?

Rustoleum would be lucky to make three or five years in a dark airless place like the enclosed belly before it started bubbling and undercutting in places from perpetual humidity, and add in a little snow melt or black tank salts and it'd be game on. My OEM paint was part asphalt mixed with a cousin to creosote - okay until itself is oxidized away by age or needle pits let corrosion start - you've solved both of those problems, armored the frame similar to interstate bridge steel, someone in the future thanks you!

The yellow sheen likely is remnants of the OEM paint getting suspended in the POR carrier solvents, and as far as I can tell NOTHING short of shell off and a methodical bead-blasting with virgin media will prevent it from happening, there are just too many pits and pores of the metal filled with it.

A wire brush slings it off the old paint pretty well but inevitably leaves a thin film that even 2x or 3x wiping with aerosol solvent like carb cleaner won't chase clean. Been there & done that, wanted silver and got gold. Worse case is coating unbroken OEM paint the POR will flake off when the frame goes through the salvage yard shredder somewhen in the future - otherwise you've got it encapsulated for keeps. It's also noticeable when welding, the base paint relaxes and three to six inches of over-coated POR simply lifts away.

I sprayed my final frame paint session. The driveway is silver, the neighbors deck and storm windows metal-flaked, the silver tribal tatoos have faded with time, the premature silver hair left on the barbershop floor. Even after using five or six cans of B12 cleaner and terry cloth shop towel wiping I have some yellow tones.

Exit $50 for respirator, $20 for in-line desiccant cartridges, $20 for cheap HVLP spray gun and $20 for their thinner/solvent - took same amount of time, still had to spend hours on mechanics creeper. A $6 paintbrush is cheap in comparison, I got great satisfaction looking at the newly painted frame but would've had the same pride in a brush-painted one too.

Its a parallel waste of paint by being forced to recover large areas if the first pass doesn't hit everything right; sags, runs and drips just as easy and orange peal if you hit it again too early.

One day and two quarts and its painted - then the next half day creeping around with a pint or two and a brush to hit the places missed spraying. Those lightening holes in spars and outriggers are paint-wasters, can't spray those meandering beveled openings without 20-50% of paint joylessly flying past the metal or invoking sags & drips.

So you've polished your technique of sidearm painting, painting through neck cramps and fogged goggles & accommodated some rather kinky paint, and even posted semi-politely through a POR-15 hangover... Whatcha exciting and fun thing ya gonna do next?


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Old 12-18-2013, 06:11 PM   #34
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Okay Wabbiteer, you calmed me down some. I admit I was tired after 7 hours under that trailer.

Today, I feel better about it. The stuff is shinny and hard. And not as gold as it was when I left last night. Some of the brush marks have melted in as it cured. I'm convinced POR 15 does the job for rust prevention, it is just a rascal to apply overhead with a 1.5 inch brush on a 24' long frame. Yes, spraying the stuff would be messy too, but I just figured you had a complete paint booth!

I was fitting my new waste water tanks today and noticed some spots I missed! Hard to see through silver dripped shields and poor light conditions. So I guess I am 98.5% done.

I'm very happy it is DONE! And I will take photos and add it to the list of positive attributes for my Trade Wind along with the new furnace, water heater, fridge, bathroom, waste water tanks, axles, hitch, PEX, etc, etc. The downside are never ending leaks, and it is very OLD.

David
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:13 PM   #35
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When I store paint in glass jars I put 1 or 2 layers of wax paper on before screwing on the lid, then trim the excess wax paper from around the lid.

This makes a gasket or seal and if the paint sticks to the wax paper who cares? The top will still unscrew and you cut off the wax paper.

To mix paint, leave the can upside down overnight and it will mix itself. Even better, store the can upside down and turn it right side up overnight when you are ready to use it.
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Old 12-20-2013, 07:10 AM   #36
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POR 15 suggests you put a barrier between the container and lid to prevent the lid from gluing itself to the container. I used saran wrap. I also store upside down and flip the can before use. My silver POR 15 had a lot of solids that settled on the lid. I stirred by hand for a good ten minutes, but they eventually dispersed into the solution. Silver may have more suspended solids than black or clear.

This special handling is just another requirement to successful application of POR 15. Airstream Forums members were very helpful training me to use the stuff.

David
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