Does anyone out there have a 1967, and are you willing to draw up a template for the shape of the floor in the back, so we can cut our replacement floor to the correct shape? I tore out the floor in sections, it was horribly rotted back there anyway, so I doubt it would have helped. I don't know the best way to come up with the floor shape, maybe just draw it on a piece of paper...anyway, any help would be appreciated. You can even tear out your old floor and send it to me. Just kidding.
Or, ideas? I threw away the front template thinking the back would be intact. The front and back might not be the same shape anyway.
I know we have to fit the belly pan underneath the shell. Getting the floor properly shaped and sized is going to be fun.
Does anyone out there have a 1967, and are you willing to draw up a template for the shape of the floor in the back, so we can cut our replacement floor to the correct shape? I tore out the floor in sections, it was horribly rotted back there anyway, so I doubt it would have helped. I don't know the best way to come up with the floor shape, maybe just draw it on a piece of paper...anyway, any help would be appreciated. You can even tear out your old floor and send it to me. Just kidding.
Or, ideas? I threw away the front template thinking the back would be intact. The front and back might not be the same shape anyway.
I know we have to fit the belly pan underneath the shell. Getting the floor properly shaped and sized is going to be fun.
I would not necessarily use someone else's floor template, as I do not believe they're all the same. What was left of mine has some rough shapes to it, not even smooth curves.
You best make your own according to the curve of the c-channel.
Uwe's suggestion on using the C channel is the best idea. I would also suggest that you do a pre fit of the shell to the floor. I did and had to make some changes to make the final fit. It appears that each vintage trailer was actually a custom construction. Much like aircraft of the era. They were all make from similar parts but individually constructed.
Don
I bought some of that thin paper-board type panel material at home depot, it's like 1/4" thick, 4 x8 sheet, and very lightweight, and I used that to make a template, using the rotted out flor pieces and guessing at the missing bits. The stuff was cheap enough to screw up on and not feel so bad. Then when I had it just right I transferred the pattern to the expensive marine plywood.
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Wonderful. Thanks both. At least we can struggle with it knowing there really isn't an easier way, that is known. I'm still working on the frame and windows, then we make wheel wells and then the floor goes in. I'll keep you posted.
Norcal, I am following your thread and wondering if you would be willing to give me more information on your custom bathroom. We need to make one that goes over the wheel well on the side, as we have a double axle trailer. Did you fabricate your bathroom out of wood and then seal it somehow? We are most likely going with fiberglass or stainless steel but we're exploring all of our options. I know it's down the road from us but I need to think about tank placement before we do the belly pan, etc etc.
The Bath setup in my Bambi is actually original. I just rebuilt the unit because it was in fairly bad shape. When I get to the 55 FC I'll have to build from nothing. The process is fairly long and time consuming, but I believe it keeps the cost down. I've found that having someone else do the work gets expensive. If you get to the point of building before I do, we could discuss the process. The question is always does one have more time or money! I would like to see more pictures of your progress.
Build on Don
I bought some of that thin paper-board type panel material at home depot, it's like 1/4" thick, 4 x8 sheet, and very lightweight, and I used that to make a template, using the rotted out flor pieces and guessing at the missing bits. The stuff was cheap enough to screw up on and not feel so bad. Then when I had it just right I transferred the pattern to the expensive marine plywood.
Stephanie, could you give more details on the paper-board material you used. I've used an art board in the past. Your material sound more substantial and maybe a better cost.
Don
We ended up using cardboard to scribe a corner from underneath, and use the same piece upside down for the other corner. I figure we're going to be shaving down the edge for correct fit and for the belly pan to go underneath, so trying to get it perfectly by template isn't necessary. After all, we had a perfect template from our front floor end, and that one ended up needing cutting down anyway.
It's got two coats of varnish on it now and is drying in the driveway!
We ended up using cardboard to scribe a corner from underneath, and use the same piece upside down for the other corner. I figure we're going to be shaving down the edge for correct fit and for the belly pan to go underneath, so trying to get it perfectly by template isn't necessary. After all, we had a perfect template from our front floor end, and that one ended up needing cutting down anyway.
It's got two coats of varnish on it now and is drying in the driveway!
Ingrid,
I forgot that you're not doing a shell-off floor replacement. In your case a good fitting pattern is essential. Youwill have to wrestle the plywood in and out a few times, probably.
Sealing the wood is definitely a good idea. Looks like you are making very good progress.
We're doing the ends first, then the center of the trailer, so that we can rassle that bad boy around, cut it, trim it, and get the shell ends on a little easier. Progress feels good.
Hi don, it might be called hardboard. It's indoor panelling, and it looks like cardboard color on one side, and chintzy fake woodgrain on the other side. It's costs $7-14 a sheet, and we use it for a lot of theater projects, because it makes for lightweight but realistic walls for our sets, so we have plenty of it laying around.
In honor of Alki and her battle with cancer we will be participating in the 2008 American Cancer Society Relay For Life. Please click here if you would like to see her page and donate to the cause: Donate
Did you use one solid piece or cut the plywood and splice it in? we are just starting to figure out how to completely replace the subfloor in our 1960 Traveler (shell on). We don't have the wiggle room in the rear to use one solid piece so we aren't sure whether to do a big pieces along the length or across the back? We will have to splice two pieces together somehow we just aren't sure which way or how. Any ideas??
What size plywood are you going with? the original is 5/8 but without the width of the old floor we thought 3/4 would do but i don't think that is going to fill all the way around and we don't want to tweak the shell.
any thoughts, tips, help, advice, etc. would be very helpful. Martha and Stacia
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