Help me make a decision on the rear floor!

[Bryanhu]

I have removed eveything from my newly aquired 1968 Globe Trotter, mainly to check out the floor. The only problem area is in the very back - there is approx 2 inches of flooring at the rear bumber missing for approx 3 feet the length of the bumper.

I was playing with the idea of using steel rods and fiberglass I read in an earlier post, but the more I thought about it, since the bathroom is empty, I may as well "do it right"?

So I need to replace a section of the bath floor. I have the pan dropped in the back and my black tank is off. When looking from the rear the first cross piece I see is a steel spar approx. 29 inches back from the where the floor would butt into the channel.

Is this the proper area to make my cut to remove the floor I will replace. I read not to cut right in front of this spar - is this what some refer to the seam? Should I make the cut just in front of this spar and the butt the wood together and then make a support piece with construction glue and screws?

I read a post where someone did this from underneath the trailer but I still do not understand if I have a replacement piece cut, how will I wedge it into the channel and bring it up flush (mate it) with the already inplace floor.

I am very mechanical and know I can do this but wish someone could just show me how. If there is anyone out there ready to take on this challenge and explain it knowing that I have had an Airstream for two weeks and do not know many of the terms sometimes used.

I was going to sign this post "the dummy" but I need to be more positive if I am going to make this happen.

Thanks all in advance!

Bryan

[Ken J]

Bryan

First of all, I suggest that you do a search here and on Tom Pattersons web site and do a search on floors. There has been a lot written.

That said, I would cut back about six inches from the back - to make sure you have all the rot cut. I would then fit new piece making sure it goes into the channel that its supposed to in the shell. I would epoxy the piece - especially the end grain then put it in place - not sure what you call the next step, but you should take a 1x4 and glue and screw it the length of the existing floor - then set the new piece in and glue and screw that piece to that 1x4.

Hope that helps

Ken J.

[Bryanhu]

Ken

Yes that helps. Should I take the six inches off- the entire width of the trailer?

[Ken J]

I would do just as much as needed to get to good wood - no reason to cut out more that you have too. I'd go 4-5 in around the bad spot.

The joint I described will make the floor as strong or stronger as the orginal - so there is not reason to cut more.

What you may want to do is take an ice pick and polk holes around as much of the perimeter as you can and pour penetrating epoxy around to seal the edges - just make sure the wood is bone dry when you do that.

Ken J.

[Bryanhu]

OK - Great. I am already reading the posts associated with Tom Patterson's web site. Great info.

I have already purchased "CPES" from the "Rot Doctor. and will use that where needed. Actually, I feel I am lucky as I have not been able to find any other soft spots. Even the bathroom floor everywhere has been dry as a bone and the wood is very solid.

Thanks-