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Old 07-12-2015, 02:50 PM   #1
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HELP?? how thick should plywood subfloor be?

I'm about to turn the corner, from gutting to remodel on my '78 Argosy Airstream. All furnishings and cabinets have been removed. How thick should the plywood subfloor be?
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Old 07-12-2015, 03:07 PM   #2
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Personally if I was going to all that trouble and expense I would use a 1/2 inch composite material. Never have to worry about rot again.
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Old 07-12-2015, 05:05 PM   #3
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Did you measure the original material? It is pretty critical that you match the original, otherwise the rivets in the front hold-down plate won't match up with the rivet holes in the shell.
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Old 07-12-2015, 09:58 PM   #4
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You need to check the original thickness. My '74 has 3/4, my '79 has 15/32". Need to match especially if c Chanel has wrap around plywood edge. Also so hold down plate holes will match, although you can replace the hold down plate to use a thicker floor. I had to replace mine because of corrosion.
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:57 AM   #5
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My '73 AS had 3/4", but it was a seriously tight fight getting it back into the wrap-around C-channels. I had ordered brand new C-channels as mine were corroded, but the new ones, despite being for 70's era trailers, had a mouth that was too small to accommodate the 3/4" flooring, so I had to use the old stuff. You might be able to get an indication of the thickness of the original floor by seeing what can be squeezed into your C-channels or, if the shell is still on the frame, you might have a chance of measuring the distance from the undersid of the front C-channels to the frame, in the vicinity of the front hold-down plate.

good luck!
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Old 07-13-2015, 11:33 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWCHIEF View Post
Personally if I was going to all that trouble and expense I would use a 1/2 inch composite material. Never have to worry about rot again.
what type of composite?
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Old 07-13-2015, 01:34 PM   #7
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I always thought if I had to do a shell off floor replacement I'd use that white plastic cutting board material, available in 4x8 sheets and most any thickness.
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Old 07-13-2015, 01:42 PM   #8
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In order to get full 3/4 inch ply ( if that is what you are matching up to something else) I used marine grade fir. All others were less than 3/4". If not matching to something you might be ahead of the game, as previously mentioned to go with regular fir which will be less than generic call out.

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Old 07-13-2015, 02:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdsmarts View Post
I always thought if I had to do a shell off floor replacement I'd use that white plastic cutting board material, available in 4x8 sheets and most any thickness.
I recently had to replace bedroom floor in 87 Excella 32 and went looking for such but no one seemed to know if it even existed. The best they could offer was marine grade plywood, which they did not stock. I was appalled to discover that AS used particle board and then sabotaged it by creating openings in the perimeter belting which let the rain water just pore in. I ended up just using ACX plywood which I sealed with a brush applied minwax polyurethane product and hoped my searching out and filling with a high-end calking product ($17.90/tube) the leaking entry points will be successful. I found two major entry points under a port door hinge an opening the length of the hinge 1/8 in wide as well as entry from the utility tray under the rear bumper. That is not a job I want to do again.
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Old 07-13-2015, 03:39 PM   #10
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3/4" Eurolite marine ply from World Panel in Riviera Beach, FL!
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:03 PM   #11
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Wow, I need to repair around the Toliet. Might have to inspect further!
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Old 07-13-2015, 09:04 PM   #12
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Anyone used this stuff?

NyloSheet | Composite Sheets, Lightweight Boat Panels
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Old 07-14-2015, 05:26 PM   #13
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I've used the nylo board to replace rotted floor in our AS "Maxime" and it is working very well. It came in 5/8 thickness and is very strong and totally waterproof. Don't want to have to touch that section of floor ever again. Someone on the forum said that it smells but we can't detect any smell at all.
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Old 07-15-2015, 01:13 AM   #14
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I'm going to look into that for a complete floor. I'm doing a body off next year.
Reinforce the frame, sandblast and powder coat. That would be nice if it can be used as a floor product.
My other concern is adhesion of tiles to it. It does say "painy ready" so if paint sticks so should tile adhesive.
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