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Old 07-15-2015, 06:31 AM   #15
flygrrl
 
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1962 19' Globetrotter
Winchester , Ontario
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No more rot

I am going to use a product called Densilite to replace my subfloor. It cuts and screws like wood but will never rot.
Densilite XP Plastic Sheet | Plastruct Polyzone - Polyzone Plastic Solutions
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Old 07-15-2015, 12:37 PM   #16
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1959 18' "Footer"
1957 26' Overlander
san francisco , California
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Well I spoke to a rep regarding this product and it sounds like the real deal.
Solid core colors, a composit, non-composite which is paintable, waterproof, will hold threads, structural (besides vertical applications it will support weight comparable to plywood).
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Old 07-15-2015, 12:49 PM   #17
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Sounds great. Price?
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Old 07-18-2015, 10:35 AM   #18
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1957 26' Overlander
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BambiTex View Post
Sounds great. Price?
I called most of the suppliers in US and it is unavailable. they are not able to keep up with demand.
Dealers tell me they don't get called back with pricing or availability.
I have gotten a couple of prices for 5/8" between $200 to $300 per sheet 4'x8'.
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Old 07-25-2015, 05:52 AM   #19
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1969 31' Sovereign
naples , Florida
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Sub floors or cabinet woods

For anyone in Florida or the Carolina's area you absolutely should contact Wood Panel Products in Riviera Beach Fla and N.C. They have over 500 wood and laminate, plastic floor and cabinet products some that are 50-60% lighter than plywood and rot resistant. I am restoring a 69' Sovereign 31' and that's where I am getting all my exotic woods and laminate flooring to really trick this baby out.
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Old 07-28-2015, 10:40 PM   #20
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Camrose , Alberta
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the original floor will be 1/2". I went with 5/8" to help with some flex between frame rails. It will require you to router out a groove where the outside wall channel fits as it has a 1/2" opening.
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Old 07-29-2015, 02:08 PM   #21
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1978 31' Sovereign
1968 24' Tradewind
Salem , Oregon
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I was thinking about using 5/8" also. Can you elaborate on the "routing for the wall channel"? Are you talking about the c-channel?

Perhaps a drawing?

Thanks for your help

-johnny
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Old 07-29-2015, 05:43 PM   #22
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My 75 Overlander has 3/4" plywood subfloor not notched or grooved.
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Old 08-01-2015, 11:19 AM   #23
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i am talking about the c-channel. its not a true c channel so i don't feel comfortable calling it that. the opening is only 1/2 inch so you need to mill the plywood down an 1/8 inch to fit inside at the c channel. i cannot speak for all years but this was the case with mine.
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Old 08-02-2015, 11:55 AM   #24
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I simply used a hand router to remove the excess from the edge to be inserted into the channel and then once in place used Duram Rock Hard Putty to level out the finished surface.
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Old 08-03-2015, 06:33 PM   #25
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I used 15/32" in my floor. Replaced original size. Really isn't much flex between the frames since there are cross and longitudinal supports under there.
Thing I wished I'd done is put down a bead of polyurethane or something else on top of the frame and other rails to prevent squeaks. The original fiberglass sandwiched in there did this function.
Keep in mind you'll need a little gap on the inside of the channel for the old interior wall sheet metal to fit down into. Attachment points to walls will be shifted up meaning new holes since the shell will be same height, but everything inside will be lifted by difference between old and new floor thickness.
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Old 08-12-2015, 05:36 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Belegedhel View Post
Did you measure the original material? It is pretty critical that you match the original, otherwise the rivets in the front hold-down plate won't match up with the rivet holes in the shell.
I have a '66 Tradewind with a 5/8" plywood subfloor. I'm thinking that if I replace it with 3/4" that I can modify or replace the front hold-down plate and there looks to be enough slop in the c channel sides to allow for new rivet holes, but is there a cascading effect brought about by the 1/8" difference in floor thickness, e.g., relationship of the shell to the banana wrap, wheel wells, etc?
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Old 08-14-2015, 10:56 PM   #27
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your c channel did not change so most rivet holes will line up. the ones that may change will be your front hold down plate. my holes lined up close enough that, with the larger 5/32 rivets, i reused the same holes.
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Old 08-15-2015, 07:39 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slats View Post
I have a '66 Tradewind with a 5/8" plywood subfloor. I'm thinking that if I replace it with 3/4" that I can modify or replace the front hold-down plate and there looks to be enough slop in the c channel sides to allow for new rivet holes, but is there a cascading effect brought about by the 1/8" difference in floor thickness, e.g., relationship of the shell to the banana wrap, wheel wells, etc?

I'm not sure how the c channel is configured on your trailer, but yes you are right, wheel wells, banana wraps will all be slightly off.
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