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Old 07-29-2015, 01:08 PM   #21
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1978 31' Sovereign
1968 24' Tradewind
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I was thinking about using 5/8" also. Can you elaborate on the "routing for the wall channel"? Are you talking about the c-channel?

Perhaps a drawing?

Thanks for your help

-johnny
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Old 07-29-2015, 04:43 PM   #22
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My 75 Overlander has 3/4" plywood subfloor not notched or grooved.
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Old 08-01-2015, 10:19 AM   #23
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i am talking about the c-channel. its not a true c channel so i don't feel comfortable calling it that. the opening is only 1/2 inch so you need to mill the plywood down an 1/8 inch to fit inside at the c channel. i cannot speak for all years but this was the case with mine.
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Old 08-02-2015, 10:55 AM   #24
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I simply used a hand router to remove the excess from the edge to be inserted into the channel and then once in place used Duram Rock Hard Putty to level out the finished surface.
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Old 08-03-2015, 05:33 PM   #25
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I used 15/32" in my floor. Replaced original size. Really isn't much flex between the frames since there are cross and longitudinal supports under there.
Thing I wished I'd done is put down a bead of polyurethane or something else on top of the frame and other rails to prevent squeaks. The original fiberglass sandwiched in there did this function.
Keep in mind you'll need a little gap on the inside of the channel for the old interior wall sheet metal to fit down into. Attachment points to walls will be shifted up meaning new holes since the shell will be same height, but everything inside will be lifted by difference between old and new floor thickness.
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Old 08-12-2015, 04:36 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Belegedhel View Post
Did you measure the original material? It is pretty critical that you match the original, otherwise the rivets in the front hold-down plate won't match up with the rivet holes in the shell.
I have a '66 Tradewind with a 5/8" plywood subfloor. I'm thinking that if I replace it with 3/4" that I can modify or replace the front hold-down plate and there looks to be enough slop in the c channel sides to allow for new rivet holes, but is there a cascading effect brought about by the 1/8" difference in floor thickness, e.g., relationship of the shell to the banana wrap, wheel wells, etc?
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Old 08-14-2015, 09:56 PM   #27
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your c channel did not change so most rivet holes will line up. the ones that may change will be your front hold down plate. my holes lined up close enough that, with the larger 5/32 rivets, i reused the same holes.
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Old 08-15-2015, 06:39 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slats View Post
I have a '66 Tradewind with a 5/8" plywood subfloor. I'm thinking that if I replace it with 3/4" that I can modify or replace the front hold-down plate and there looks to be enough slop in the c channel sides to allow for new rivet holes, but is there a cascading effect brought about by the 1/8" difference in floor thickness, e.g., relationship of the shell to the banana wrap, wheel wells, etc?

I'm not sure how the c channel is configured on your trailer, but yes you are right, wheel wells, banana wraps will all be slightly off.
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Old 08-15-2015, 06:56 AM   #29
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I have an aluminum subfloor and no channels. I just put down 5/8" plywood and it made a big difference in the stability of the camper. I then treated the plywood with a waterproof sealer. After screwing the plywood down, I plan to treat it with the waterproof sealer again... Wait a few days. And install the new floor...
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Old 08-16-2015, 07:49 PM   #30
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your c channel did not change so most rivet holes will line up. the ones that may change will be your front hold down plate. my holes lined up close enough that, with the larger 5/32 rivets, i reused the same holes.
Alberta bound, pretty ingenious routing the bottom of the floor instead of the top. WISH I'D THOUGHT OF THAT! Would keep all the skin/shell holes the same wrt the c channel except hold down plates and belly pans, which I have replaced all. I would have probably still had problems with the channels for the wheel wells.
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