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12-11-2013, 07:10 PM
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#41
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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I would pull the belly skins and see what you have to work with. I expect that the worst of the rust is concentrated in the front A-Frame and the rear bumper area. Rear end rot is common are a result of some design issues. You probably have rear end floor rot under bed (s) in the rear. I think the A-frame can be fixed relatively easily. The worst of the rot is in the corner. If you cut all the bad stuff out and get some new steel and cut it to fit the missing areas and a welder can put it back together. It won't hurt to add some gussets to make it a little stronger. Now you can pull it to a place where you can finish the R&R. Without the skins in the way you can see what you have to work with. The fiberglass insulation gets water logged and really increases the frame rot.
Perry
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12-12-2013, 05:13 AM
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#42
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Rivet Master
1966 17' Caravel
Newport
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,291
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I agree with dropping the belly pan and doing the patch repair! You can do this!
Cliff
__________________
Gotta get busy! Have a great day! Now where did I put those revits?
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12-12-2013, 05:51 AM
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#43
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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Too far down the road for an objective opinion here.....I would turn it loose.
Do you want to use it or work on it?
If time is not a concern, spend some more of it on a thorough stem to stern bottoms up inspection.
Anything can be restored with $$$ & effort.
Your TV has most likely accelerated the frame separation.
"About My Tow Vehicle
1996 Ford F-350 XLT 7.3L DRW"....pretty stiff.
Good Luck...
Bob
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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12-12-2013, 08:41 AM
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#44
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2 Rivet Member
1986 34' Excella
West Palm Beach
, Florida
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 22
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Hey all,
Will be out and about today, going to pick up steel plates and several bolts, and plan on tackling the inspection and temp repair tomorrow and will be sure to document the process in this thread.
Thanks for the support, everyone!
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12-12-2013, 09:21 AM
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#45
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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It does not look like he is using a load distributing hitch. I think using one will put more stress on an already weak frame. What sort of hitch arrangement do you have?
Perry
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12-12-2013, 10:07 AM
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#46
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2 Rivet Member
1986 34' Excella
West Palm Beach
, Florida
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114
It does not look like he is using a load distributing hitch. I think using one will put more stress on an already weak frame. What sort of hitch arrangement do you have?
Perry
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I've got a Reese hitch with 1200lbs. spring bars in stirrups.
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12-12-2013, 02:21 PM
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#47
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Rivet Master
1967 26' Overlander
Huntsville
, Alabama
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,018
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That setup will crack a new frame
Quote:
Originally Posted by DmcrtcTrvlrs
...1996 Ford F-350 XLT 7.3L DRW...
I've got a Reese hitch with 1200lbs. spring bars in stirrups.
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Wow - that'sa really stiff setup!
If you are interested, a little more insight into spring bars can be found at this link:
Tuning a Reese Hitch
While the author appears to have an uncanny insight into the topic, his writing style is boring as all get-out. Try to stay awake till the end.
But good points are made.
Tom
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12-12-2013, 03:02 PM
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#48
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2 Rivet Member
1986 34' Excella
West Palm Beach
, Florida
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomW
Wow - that'sa really stiff setup!
If you are interested, a little more insight into spring bars can be found at this link:
Tuning a Reese Hitch
While the author appears to have an uncanny insight into the topic, his writing style is boring as all get-out. Try to stay awake till the end.
But good points are made.
Tom
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Yeah, I'm just learning now that I need to drop down to probably 600# bars after some discussion with other folks over email. Will probably leave them off until a permanent fix is in place.
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12-12-2013, 04:13 PM
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#49
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,800
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What grade bolts/nuts and lock washers did you get?
Enjoy,
__________________
Paul Waddell
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12-12-2013, 04:17 PM
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#50
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1972 Travelux Princess 25
Cobourg
, Ontario
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,059
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How big a trailer? Unless it's a 34 foot you may not need any spring bars at all.
__________________
Living in the trailer park of sense, looking out the window at a tornado of stupidity.
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12-12-2013, 04:44 PM
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#51
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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It is a 34 and he is pulling it with an F-350 Diesel so he might be better off structurally leaving them off. The truck can handle the load I am sure. I am worried about the frame more than the truck. I would think a thick walled 2x2 box beam welded across the bottom would hold it together for a while.
Where are you going to pull the trailer to? You are in West Palm now?
Perry
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12-13-2013, 12:47 PM
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#52
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2 Rivet Member
1986 34' Excella
West Palm Beach
, Florida
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 22
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Hey gang,
Quick update. Pulled the corner banana wrap off and got a better look at the area:
We went to a steel fabrication place and the welder I've been talking with over the phone is putting together a 1/4" thick, 18" long U-channel that will wrap around the whole area. He recommended keeping the number of holes drilled to a minimum, so we decided on two 1/2", Grade 8 bolts to go all the way through both sides of the U-channel/beam unit. We also picked up a proper drill bit for the job, some washers, and locking nuts. I also plan to throw on some Loc-Tite for good measure. Altogether, about $82.
My plan is to slide the U-channel into place, and then put two jack stands under either end of it, and one on the other side of the A-frame. Then take some of the weight off the tongue jack so that the weight of the trailer starts to push the A-frame flush against its new splint. The U-channel will have the holes already drilled when I get it back from the shop, so I'll then drill through the frame, using the U-channel as a pilot. I'll bolt it up while it's still on the jack stands, and then hopefully that will be it. Thoughts?
Thanks again for all the advice and support - classic AirForums. I'll post pictures as soon as I get the U-channel from the shop, but it might not be until Monday.
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12-13-2013, 01:18 PM
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#53
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Rivet Master
1977 23' Safari
Niagara on the Lake
, Ontario
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 984
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I would use at least 4 bolts - 2 on either side of the crack.
The channel is a good start but you need to tie the repair in to the front cross member.
__________________
1977 Safari Land Yacht
2005 Toyota Tundra SR5
2022 Toyota 4Runner SR5
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12-13-2013, 02:57 PM
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#54
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Moderator dude
1966 26' Overlander
Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 7,501
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I would take the trailer bolted with the repair and have the repair welded with a weld connecting the new U-channel repair to the cross channel. Spreading out the the load of the repair in other directions will create greater stability in the trailer.
While you are waiting for the repair piece ...... clean up the existing frame sections and coat them. POR 15 would be a good solution. Bolted, welded no matter what your solution stopping the corrosion from spreading to the new patch is smart.
Stop Rust with POR-15® - We Know What Permanent Means!
>>>>>>>>>>>>Action
__________________
1966 Mercury Park Lane 4 DR Breezeway 410 4V, C-6, 2.80 - Streamless.
1966 Lincoln 4 door Convertible 462 4V 1971 Ford LTD Convertible 429 4V Phoenix ~ Yeah it's hot however it's a dry heat!
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12-13-2013, 05:33 PM
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#55
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1972 Travelux Princess 25
Cobourg
, Ontario
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,059
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That looks nasty. I don't know if you have enough good metal to bolt the reinforcements to.
You need to be careful bolting to a hollow box like that. When you tighten the bolts they squeeze or collapse the box and never get tight. That is if you use long bolts that go all the way through.
You need to use short bolts that just go through the metal. To do this you need a hole or some way to get the bolts inside the box. Trailer hitches come with a wire gadget that pulls the bolts thru the hole.
__________________
Living in the trailer park of sense, looking out the window at a tornado of stupidity.
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12-13-2013, 06:27 PM
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#56
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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It looks like it is confined to a relatively small area. Chip the majority of it off and then wire brush it. A cup brush on an angle grinder works well for this. I agree with AldeanFan. You need at least two bolts on each side of the crack in order for it to do anything. Otherwise it is just a hinge. Take it from a rocket scientist. I would POR15 it before you make the final repairs. Also POR15 inside the frame members. You might want to wash everything with baking soda first to get that acid neutralized. Keep in mind that with very stiff tow vehicle suspension and heavy load bars even a good frame will take a beating and the connection between the shell and frame will suffer. Considering all the miles you put on the old girl and the years of neglect she held up pretty well.
Perry
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12-14-2013, 03:36 PM
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#57
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2 Rivet Member
1986 34' Excella
West Palm Beach
, Florida
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114
It looks like it is confined to a relatively small area. Chip the majority of it off and then wire brush it. A cup brush on an angle grinder works well for this. I agree with AldeanFan. You need at least two bolts on each side of the crack in order for it to do anything. Otherwise it is just a hinge. Take it from a rocket scientist. I would POR15 it before you make the final repairs. Also POR15 inside the frame members. You might want to wash everything with baking soda first to get that acid neutralized. Keep in mind that with very stiff tow vehicle suspension and heavy load bars even a good frame will take a beating and the connection between the shell and frame will suffer. Considering all the miles you put on the old girl and the years of neglect she held up pretty well.
Perry
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Yeah, I'm going to upgrade to two bolts on each side of the crack. I'll have the welder make sure to pre-drill the holes where I know the bolts won't be going through heavily corroded areas of the beam.
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12-14-2013, 04:11 PM
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#58
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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U bolts would be a good idea. U can get them at McMaster.com
Perry
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12-14-2013, 06:57 PM
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#59
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2 Rivet Member
1986 34' Excella
West Palm Beach
, Florida
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114
U bolts would be a good idea. U can get them at McMaster.com
Perry
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In what configuration?
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12-14-2013, 08:07 PM
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#60
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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If you can find the right size you can use them to hold the channel to the frame. You would need a plate with two holes in it on the top for the U-bolt to fit into and the U-bolt would wrap around the channel and hold it to the frame.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#u-bolts/=pt8n5q
Look at the square U-bolts. If you wanted to do some fab the welder could put some ears on the channel for the u-bolt to attach to.
Perry
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