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Old 11-20-2013, 07:06 PM   #15
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Yea I have to second the idea of pulling the belly pan and seeing how far back the rot goes. If you take it to a dealer, I'm sure they will do so. I had to replace most of the front frame from the door forward. It was slot of work and steel.
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Old 11-20-2013, 08:44 PM   #16
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This is what can happen when a rusted A frame gives way on the road.
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Old 11-20-2013, 10:12 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by 62overlander View Post
Florida humidity and salt air did that.
Having lived in Florida, I have witnessed that kind of cancerous rust on boat trailers that are dipped into salt water on a regular basis. You have some issues to deal with, and I would not wait to get back to WPB to investigate, especially if you are on the road and loaded down with gear. You may make it home and then maybe not. So if you are still taking input on where to visit next, I would say finding the closest AS dealer or trailer/frame shop might be your safest bet.
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Old 11-28-2013, 02:21 PM   #18
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So, are you towing with that problem or fixing?

Either way, let us know and inform of repairs.
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Old 12-10-2013, 04:33 PM   #19
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Hey all,

We made it to Florida and have been parked in my mom's driveway for a bit. Turns out the rust is worse than we thought and can't be patched. It's also rusted all the way back to the rest of the frame, which means getting a new A-frame altogether is unlikely as well. A whole new A-frame is also out of our budget anyways.

We're stuck here until we can figure out another plan, which will most likely involve selling the trailer to someone who doesn't plan on traveling with it and plans to park it permanently somewhere…
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:36 PM   #20
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We're stuck here until we can figure out another plan, which will most likely involve selling the trailer to someone who doesn't plan on traveling with it and plans to park it permanently somewhere…
Aw man that sucks. Hope that you guys can find a way to stay on the road.. Too bad we are not closer and could help out somehow.
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:45 PM   #21
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Well, hope you recoup a few $$ for it from someone who wants to just park it.

At least you''ll know one thing to check for if you buy another!


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Old 12-10-2013, 08:31 PM   #22
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Question becomes, how bad do you want to stay on the road? You will not be able to replace the trailer for the cost it would take to fix it. It appears many $$$ was spent fixing up the inside based on the pictures on your website and is it really the best idea to let all that go down the tube. You look like two young folks with strong backs and minds. If both of you take on an extra job, eat beans and rice, you'll have the cash to fix it in less than a month!

You spent the last year doing something that many of us will kill for, asking for sponsers along the way (someone else paying for it), and now when it get's tough you want to sell the trailer (that was your mothers).

Not trying to be mean but it's time to buckle down and make it happen!

Get to work, get it fixed and ROLL!!!

Enjoy,
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Old 12-10-2013, 08:39 PM   #23
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I have never done it, so maybe I don't know what I am talking about. But it seems like a pretty simple fix to put in a new A frame. The big question is the condition of the rest of the frame.
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Old 12-10-2013, 08:59 PM   #24
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Does the A frame weld on or bolt on? If it bolts on it should be within the capability of an amateur mechanic. I can see most of the $2500 repair bill being labor if you have to drill out rivets, take off the belly pan, replace the A frame then put everything back together.

Then again who knows what you will find with the pan off? Is there any sign of frame rust or rear sag other than the A frame? If it was caused by the battery the rest of the frame may be good.
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Old 12-10-2013, 09:48 PM   #25
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Removing the A-frame can be done by any competent machine shop.

You will have to remove the lower skins and a sheet of belly pan.

A knowledgeable welder can fix that in less than a day once you get to the bad parts.

Now, if it's "rusted" completely through all the way to the first cross member, it will take longer. You may have to pull some stuff inside to get to the inside and effect a fix.

There will be more difficult things in life to overcome.
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Old 12-10-2013, 09:53 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Ganaraska View Post
Does the A frame weld on or bolt on? If it bolts on it should be within the capability of an amateur mechanic. I can see most of the $2500 repair bill being labor if you have to drill out rivets, take off the belly pan, replace the A frame then put everything back together.

Then again who knows what you will find with the pan off? Is there any sign of frame rust or rear sag other than the A frame? If it was caused by the battery the rest of the frame may be good.
The A frame has to be cut out and welded back in. I did the job on mine. Cut out the rusty main rails from underneath, and then hired a welder to build the new one and weld it back in. It is a big job. If some one quoted you $2500 it might be worth it. Any chance you can get a loan? Also tax return season is just around the corner. Just an idea..
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Old 12-10-2013, 10:14 PM   #27
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I like Paul's attitude. Roll up your sleeves and do what it takes.
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Old 12-10-2013, 10:23 PM   #28
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I would agree with the above post. A good welder would likely take regular steel and make a patch. A really good welder would take some steel and make it un-noticeable after it was painted.

There is a fair chunk of labor removing the bananna wrap and the belly pans. However that is not skilled labor. Only the welding is a high skill set.

IF an RV shop were to do the entire job it would be the most expensive. If you dissassembled the wrap and pans and towed it to a welder I bet you would cut the cost of the job in half or more.

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