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Old 09-16-2015, 07:56 PM   #15
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Well, on one half of the hall closet in our 27FB we usually have a box with 3-4 wine bottles in it. On the other side, we often have a large bag of dog food - roughly 15 pounds. So far no collapse, but after reading this thread we'll have to take a look to see whether we're pushing our luck. Maybe we'll have to reinforce ours too, who knows. If we do have to go in there and the water pump is in that space, we'll take the opportunity to add an accumulator and rubber baby buggy bumpers in hopes of quieting down that silly pump.
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Old 09-16-2015, 08:43 PM   #16
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Now isn't that interesting. Do you have any idea what type of weight you were carrying before it broke? I'm wondering not because we have a shelving unit in our closet, but we carry a 3-gal bottle of water in that location all the time.
Thanks

Doug
Doug... I have no quantitative answer. But I know we were carrying more weight in the shelves that we are now. Some vintage cast iron pans contributed to the collapse, while we were traveling... road bumps no doubt contributed.

We are carrying a bit less weight there now, however with the reinforcement by simple 3/4" ply support, vertically placed under the shelf... it never would have collapsed, even with the heavier weight we were carrying earlier. The closet floor was held in place ONLY with screws driven into the walls! There were no direct vertical supports down to the coach floor, which is all that it takes to completely prevent a collapse.

Airstream intended the closet, primarily, for hanging clothes and storing shoes. We don't need the closet for clothes, we need it for general storage. So, our usage requires a well supported closet floor, which was easily done.

The fix was simple and powerfully effective. We could (though we will not!) load a LOT of weight on the closet floor now. No worries about it collapsing ever again.

As for the comment about Airstreams being poorly made, I disagree. This particular closet floor support wasn't well done, but I'm not at all painting the rest of the coach as being poorly made. I effected a great fix to this single issue and we LOVE the coach!
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Old 09-16-2015, 11:54 PM   #17
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Thanks DHart. I think I will look at installing your idea of the 3/4 ply running vertical. Did you run it on the 45 of straight back to front? Maybe a picture would make it easier for us design DIY challenged people....😀
We leave hear in a couple days for a 6-week trip so if I'm going to do this it will have to be soon

Thanks again

Doug


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Old 09-17-2015, 12:40 AM   #18
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Doug... no pics at the moment, but this is what I did.

The wheel well is at the back of the closet and the top/front edge of it can provide a small bit of support, but the wheel well material is thin plastic and not to be used for the bulk of support.

I precisely cut a sheet of 3/4" ply to run along the right side (up from the subfloor to underneath the bottom of the closet floor), with cut outs along the subfloor edge to allow water lines and furnace hose to pass through, that are lying on the floor. This piece includes a flange which also sits on top of the wheel well... sort of an L-shape. I doubled the 3/4" thickness on the flange which runs from the front to the back under the closet floor. This gave me a 1 1/2" thick surface directly under the closet floor - into which I drove two meaty screws through the closet floor into the top of the plywood.

I also ran a piece from left to right along the back...resting on top of the wheel well lip, which sits directly on the subfloor. And attached two thicknesses of 3/4" ply to the back of this piece, which sit on top of the wheel well, to add just a little more support and a nice thick profile to drill down into from the closet floor.

Then I installed 3" wide 3/4" plywood supports from the subfloor up to underside of the closet floor on the left front corner and another behind the center posts at the front middle of the compartment. These were held in place with two screws into the existing verticle surfaces.

All of this still allows access to the water pump and the conduits.

I'm sure other designs of support might be just as effective, if not more so. The tricky part is working around all the piping and furnace hose.

Lastly, I installed a 3/4" plywood trim piece above and below the front edge of the closet floor to prevent the base of the Elfa drawer unit from sliding forward or backward. The top of the Elfa drawer unit is kept from swaying around by steel wire securing the top of it to the hanger rod running across the top of the closet. It is all now rock solid.
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Old 09-17-2015, 01:13 AM   #19
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Wow... our hallway closet is much smaller, but I'm going to think twice now about what I put in it! I'll have to take a good look at it before our next outing.

I hope the vintage cast iron emerged from the incident without damage. I'd be very upset if something like that happened to any of mine-- I know from personal experience just how much effort can go into bringing one of those pieces back to life!
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Old 09-17-2015, 10:00 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by DHart View Post
Doug... no pics at the moment, but this is what I did.

The wheel well is at the back of the closet and the top/front edge of it can provide a small bit of support, but the wheel well material is thin plastic and not to be used for the bulk of support.

I precisely cut a sheet of 3/4" ply to run along the right side (up from the subfloor to underneath the bottom of the closet floor), with cut outs along the subfloor edge to allow water lines and furnace hose to pass through, that are lying on the floor. This piece includes a flange which also sits on top of the wheel well... sort of an L-shape. I doubled the 3/4" thickness on the flange which runs from the front to the back under the closet floor. This gave me a 1 1/2" thick surface directly under the closet floor - into which I drove two meaty screws through the closet floor into the top of the plywood.

I also ran a piece from left to right along the back...resting on top of the wheel well lip, which sits directly on the subfloor. And attached two thicknesses of 3/4" ply to the back of this piece, which sit on top of the wheel well, to add just a little more support and a nice thick profile to drill down into from the closet floor.

Then I installed 3" wide 3/4" plywood supports from the subfloor up to underside of the closet floor on the left front corner and another behind the center posts at the front middle of the compartment. These were held in place with two screws into the existing verticle surfaces.

All of this still allows access to the water pump and the conduits.

I'm sure other designs of support might be just as effective, if not more so. The tricky part is working around all the piping and furnace hose.

Lastly, I installed a 3/4" plywood trim piece above and below the front edge of the closet floor to prevent the base of the Elfa drawer unit from sliding forward or backward. The top of the Elfa drawer unit is kept from swaying around by steel wire securing the top of it to the hanger rod running across the top of the closet. It is all now rock solid.
Thanks very much for the articulation of what you did. I will look into this this morning so I can come up with a plan

thanks again

Doug
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