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Old 09-25-2003, 11:33 AM   #113
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Re: Lengthen Hitch

Quote:
Originally posted by markdoane
Toaster:
Got a little help from Ultradog diagnosing my frame. He discovered there is another length of tubing INSIDE the front tongue. We don't know where it starts and ends, but you should know about this for designing your new front assembly.
Well isn't that special!


Hmmmmm makes you wonder about a lot of things.

There are no rossette welds anywhere to hold it in place?

Try tapping on the frame with a hammer and see if you can tell where it starts and ends from the sound.

The tube has been hammerd flat on ours up under the hitch. Have to pry it open and see whats in there.

I may have a bent frame behind the axle on ours. Looking at the underside the belly pan seems to be concave in the center. With the mess the floor is inside I can't tell yet. I'm not going to know for sure till I get the floor up and the bell pan off. There is also a hole drilled through the frame for a drain from the vanitly sinke in the same area it appears the worst.

That little trick there may make for a very simple way to take car of the problem if it is indeed bent. I can pull it straight and drive a peice in up to the bend and double the strenght of the frame in the process.

Thanks for the heads up.
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Old 09-25-2003, 11:44 AM   #114
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framework

We looked but didn't see any rosettes or evidence of plug welds. Like yours, my outer tube is hammered flat at the end under the hitch assbly. I think maybe the inner tube goes back to the bend, may be tied in where the guard plate is on inside of the bends. The forward end may be where the tube is bent in to match the angle of the hitch
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Old 09-25-2003, 01:41 PM   #115
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Mark:


Was it you that mentions a sealer product that you used on a boat from West marine? WHat was the brand name? Going to pick up some tomorrow.
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Old 09-25-2003, 02:51 PM   #116
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It was the West System 105 resin and the 206 slow hardener.
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Old 09-25-2003, 03:03 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally posted by greg176
It was the West System 105 resin and the 206 slow hardener.
Thanks!
Any idea on how long it needs to dry befroe you can handle it? I'm going to seal the full sheets then dress the edges after I have the deck on and the holes for plumbing cut.
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Old 09-25-2003, 03:28 PM   #118
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An hour should do it.Even with slow hardener the stuff sets up pretty quick.Mix it up in small batches about two cups at a time and use it right away it starts to set up in just a few minutes.
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Old 09-25-2003, 03:31 PM   #119
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Resin

Thanks for info on epoxy. Ordered fame pieces and new crossmembers today and started grinding of the excess stuff from the frame. Stuff like anti-sway ballsocket and mounting plates for load springs. Taking of the front crossmember and plate, first two outriggers, rear crossmember, and one in the middle where the new greywater tank is going.
Recieved sample of COMDECO plastic floor today. Comparing the flex modulus, looks like I can make it work with maybe an extra stringer or two. Or not, haven't got prices yet.
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Old 09-25-2003, 07:34 PM   #120
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I have used System Three & West System products in boatbuilding applications. Applications in aviation and other wood systems are also appropriate. Many hardware store epoxies are not necessarily waterproof. Be sure and wear disposable gloves (nitrile fit well and are available at our farm/hardware outlets). Mix it in old yogurt containers or other unwaxed disposables. Cheap foam brushes work well for application.

There are some strong particulars at every stage. Cleanliness is a plus in working with epoxy. It is a potent sensitizer and once an individual reacts they can not work near the stuff again. Mixing large pots produces heat which greatly impacts handling and success. Mechanical finishing of epoxied surfaces produces heat and you should wear a paint spray respirator (not a paper mist/dust mask). Painting epoxied surfaces needs specific products and technique.

My old reliable for good background info is available online at www.systemthree.com . Select 'Literature' and fill out the form to access the downloadable pdf file, "The Epoxy Book." I think you will appreciate this for the clear and broad recommendations provided.
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Old 09-25-2003, 08:06 PM   #121
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Bob:

Thanks for the heads up. I have not worked with this type of product before. I had a few concerns that you have helped with. I will be working outside in mid 70's temperatures so ventilation should not be an issue. I'll keep the mixed quantities to a minimum.

My main concern is to seal the decking. I wanted to do as much as I can to prevent future rot cause by water leaks that will inevitably happen. Appearence is not of concern. There will be a Vinyl flooring installed over it. Eventually a wood laminate or possibly Cork flooring in the main areas of the coach over that.
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Old 09-25-2003, 08:32 PM   #122
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Epoxy

Canoe'stream,
Thanks for the info. Read the book-very informative. The ClearCoat sounds like the product to use for coating plywood. If I did one side, cost would be about $150. Weight addition would be about 15 lbs. That sounds very attractive.
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Old 09-25-2003, 08:47 PM   #123
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The SystemThree book is great -it is the book I used when I rebuilt my boat.
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Old 09-25-2003, 09:03 PM   #124
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You shell-off adventuresome folks are ahead of the game in ability to follow leaks in the long term -- the downfall with any system. You have a plan anyway.

Mixing and applying epoxy isn't really offensive to breathing. Ventilation requirements are modest at this point. Don't panic if you get a little on your skin. Wash the area with soap and water as soon as reasonable. Just don't leave it sit there.

Don't expect epoxy to soak in much more than a sixteenth of an inch in softwoods. End grain and rotary cut plywood veneers absorb a fair amount. Before the material sets re-wet the surface when it looks dry and soaked in. That way you will end up with a solid plastic barrier. I would avoid quick setting formulas. Even slow set can be worked with the next day (though I find medium SystemThree works fine for me). If you mix more than 1/2 cup at a time, do so in a broad flat container so heat is spread out. Look at cheap paint roller frames and thin foam rollers for applying to broad plywood surfaces. You'll figure it out...

Using a floor system with adhesives would probably turn out best if you tried it first on plywood samples you epoxy treated the same way. Be sure you've washed off the amine blush layer (oily surface feel) and probably sanded to give the surface some "tooth."

BTW -- I don't know that the low viscosity Clear Coat is really what you'd want. You'll get a good result with the normal System Three Resin. It is the consistency of warm honey when mixed. You can stop short of the full-build decoupage thicknesses -- which is done by adding another layer or two after the first one sets (follow instructions for recoating).

And 59toaster -- just where do you come by temps in the mid-70's????
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Old 09-25-2003, 10:22 PM   #125
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Quote:
And 59toaster -- just where do you come by temps in the mid-70's????
Yeah really got chillie here the last couple weeks. Might even need a light jacket in the mornings next week. Another cold front coming through this weekend Got cold like Summer in Detroit! Probably have to put the hard top on the truck for the season around Holloween this year. Don't think I'll make mid Nov like we did last year. Feels like a cold winter and might get another blizard (6-7 inches) and be out of work for a week like back in 95




SO glad my folks got sick of the snow back in 79 and moved us down here.

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Old 09-26-2003, 07:56 PM   #126
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Anybody else having problems finding 5/8's ply?

I checked several places and even tried to order it and for what ever reason I can't find it here. Ended up going to 3/4.

I understand the center U-Channel has a lip on it that wraps under the deck. I'll have to take the router and mill it backdown to 5/8's. Not happy about the extra weight but what else can I do?
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