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Old 09-22-2003, 11:42 AM   #85
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I was going to seal the plywood with West System epoxy.I used it when I replaced the floor and transom of my boat about ten years ago and still like new.I was also going to try to insulate floor with styrofoam glued/screwed to bottom of plywood.
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Old 09-22-2003, 11:47 AM   #86
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Greg.

Because of the twisting and tweaking, styrofoam should not be used.

In time, it will fail.

Also, the bottom of the floor should breathe.

Lots of fiberglass insulation works wonders.

Andy
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Old 09-22-2003, 12:39 PM   #87
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Full monty

Andy, thanks for the insight. I can imagine opening the belly pan in 10 years and finding nothing but a pile of styrofoam sawdust.
Greg: Believe it or not, there is a West Marine store closer to me than the Home Depot. I like andy's idea of leaving the bottom open to breathe. I was just going to do the edges, in about 2 inches. More for weight and cost than breathability.
Toaster: You're making great progress. Is this the week you were going to take off? I'll be slowing down now that winter has arrived in Minnesota.
...and waiting for my new axle...
...and greywater tank...
...and POR-15...
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Old 09-22-2003, 01:24 PM   #88
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Re: Full monty

Quote:
Originally posted by markdoane
Andy, thanks for the insight. I can imagine opening the belly pan in 10 years and finding nothing but a pile of styrofoam sawdust.
Greg: Believe it or not, there is a West Marine store closer to me than the Home Depot. I like andy's idea of leaving the bottom open to breathe. I was just going to do the edges, in about 2 inches. More for weight and cost than breathability.
Toaster: You're making great progress. Is this the week you were going to take off? I'll be slowing down now that winter has arrived in Minnesota.
...and waiting for my new axle...
...and greywater tank...
...and POR-15...
Next week is when I have off. and I just took friday off of this week for supply chasing. Start drilling rivets tonight. Get that knocked out in the evenings and then saturday I'll start pulling the body loose.

I have Delta's main repair hub here you would think I could find somebody local to me that would stock 2024-t3 that would counter sale.....ARGGGGG.

I'm not sure how much I need. I was hoping not to have to make a 70 mile round trip but it looks like I will have to. Couple more places to call. I'm pretty sure Tull metals will have it just a long drive.

The real bummer is there is a place 3.5 miles from my house called "Metal Coaters". They apply finishes on the stuff. They have tractor trailers lined up all day with huge rolls but doesn't look like they have counter sales. If they can't sell 1,000lb at a time I'm not worth the trouble.

POR 15....In stock at Year one www.yearone.com Guess I'll swing buy on my way to pick up the aluminum for the belly pan.

Hay let me run this by you. I'm thinking about using some aluminum for the shower walls and cover over the black water tank that the toliet will sit on. There was some serious issues with water getting where it wasn't wanted and I think I can do a better job with the aluminum sheet. Put a lip on it to make sure it all drains into the shower pan.

Would that be to much CCD for a vintage?
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Old 09-22-2003, 02:00 PM   #89
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That fiberglass insulation worked great. It was soaking wet and all balled up in bottom of floor pan and full of mouse droppings.What was left on top of frame acted as a reservoir to hold water to rot top of frame.
59Toaster - On a positive note I was told that I can get aluminum from the same outfit that supplies us here at AirCanada.Apparently if they have damaged sheets that can not be certified for aircraft (any scratch of dent)they will sell for half price over counter.Keep that in mind when looking for aluminum.
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Old 09-22-2003, 02:17 PM   #90
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Dow makes insulation board called Thermax and Tuff R. It doesn't break up like styrofoam and won't hold water like fiberglass, double sided foil faced. Lowes and HD shoud have it in 1/2" and 1" sheets but it comes up to about 2 1/2".

John
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Old 09-22-2003, 02:36 PM   #91
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Greg, your point is well made.
My wife always loved the smell of the airstream because it took her back to her childhold (40 years ago) When I told her I had located the source of that unique "smell" in the bellypan, she asked if I could put it the smell back in when I'm finished.
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Old 09-22-2003, 02:41 PM   #92
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Aluminum shower

Toaster, I'm thinking the same thing. The one area in my shower that was pristine was where they built the side lip out of plywood covered with aluminum.
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Old 09-23-2003, 03:36 PM   #93
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Priced 2024-t3 for the belly pan yet?

For four 4ftx12ft sheets I just got quoted $1000


Yep I called around and most places would not even see if they could get that.

Looks like I will bee patching in the visiable edge and saving as much as I can. Middle is fair in mine. so If I replace about 10 inches all the way around and the one corner that is a complete write off.
I have them checking of a different grade to see what it goes for. Might have a little two tone effect going but still have some cash left in my bank.
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Old 09-23-2003, 03:55 PM   #94
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Aluminum

Don't worry about the grade. From what I read, the original belly pan was 2024 NOT AlClad, whereas the body WAS AlClad. So the bottom would never polish up to a mirror finish anyway. Besides, who would polish a bellypan.
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Old 09-24-2003, 11:28 AM   #95
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In Keeping with having this post have every step of the process and links to vendors that have material I am Adding this from another thread we had going.


Allright I just spent about $250 with www.airpartsinc.com
Price was INCLUDING shipping.

SUPER NICE and friendly folks. Family run buisness I think (girl on the phone had to ask mom for the formula to figure out the right length rivets She was very knowledgable this was just some formula she didn't know off the top of her head). Very understanding as to my confusion and took the time to give me a little education.

I splurged and went with the 2024 and will peice it in. All normaly visable surfaces will shine up (bottom will look like hell but ohh well). Said they had it all in stock. Should ship tomorrow at the latest and be on my door step Monday or tuesday.

On the 2024 they were $75 cheaper with shipping then I could get it local. Since I bought coil it can go UPS instead of freight for the Sheet.


I Also ordered 2ft of (4ft wide) .032 2024 for any repairs I might need to do to the main body.

I ordered 30 temporary fasteners and the tool for them,
A tool designed to cut the head off rivites without messing up the sheet. $10 for the tool and $3.25 for the blades. I ordered 3 blades.
300 1/8 inch buck rivets.

Thats all for the $250-260, she still had to add in the rivets but wanted to make sure she was sending me the correct length.

I think the prices were reasonable and I recomend them for the materials on their customer service and knowledge alone not to mention they have a great price.

Mark I told them you would be calling!
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Old 09-24-2003, 11:59 AM   #96
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Quote:
A tool designed to cut the head off rivites without messing up the sheet
When you get that post a picture of it. I never heard of anything like that, just a good old drill bit.

John
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Old 09-24-2003, 12:21 PM   #97
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Be sure you get the hardened 2117-T4 Brazier head rivets, 5/32. Check this web site: http://www.aspenrivet.com/items.asp?cat=260&subid=41
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Old 09-24-2003, 12:47 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally posted by 74Argosy24MH


When you get that post a picture of it. I never heard of anything like that, just a good old drill bit.

John
I'll do that. Here is the page it is on.
http://www.airpartsinc.com/catalog-gif/Page18.htm

It's listed as a Rivet head shaver. It's not the same as the finishing shaver at Airstream Dreams. This is actually the cutting blades that go with the "Micro counterstops.
You have the main body and from what the helpful lady said it will center on the rivet as it cuts to help prevent walking off the rivet when you remove the head.

That page also lists the Temporary sheet fasteners and the tool for them. I think those will be handy when I put this jig saw puzzle back together.
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